I took the day searching though various websites and creating links that include all of the necessary, recomended, and optional parts to build a powerful reliable LSvtec set up

first off, these are all reputable websites with consistant prices and almost always a consistant supply of these parts

Necessary parts

Botton End Assembly


$80.00-Full-race LSvtec line kit w/ dowel pins
$72.95- full LS/B20 bearing kit (rod, main and thrust)
$169.99- brand new JDM ITR, P30 piston sets (both can be find when going through the pages) $129.99- new OEM piston rings
$31.95- LS/B20 ARP rod bolt set

Pumps:

$99- new ITR OEM oil pump

$100.00- new OEM vtec 22 tooth waterpump


Gaskets and belts:

$57.49- OEM B18c timing belt
$68.31- OEM LS head gasket
$10.99- OEM cam seals
$11.78 (GSR)/ $12.88 (ITR/B16)- OEM intake manifold gasket

Head assembly

$116.95- ARP GSR/ITR head stud set
$64.00- OEM intake and exhaust valve seals

Recommended parts/ Necessary if not inclued when block or head are purchased

these parts are not required (unless you do not have them), but I would reccomend them for the reliabilty of the motor

Bottom end assembly

$70.95 (withough girdle) 78.95 (with girdle)- ARP main stud kit
$19.99 PasswordJDM magnetic oil drain plug

Gaskets

$56.03- OEM LS bottom end gaket kit (front and rear main seals, oil pickup, water pump, oil pan, etc.)
$63.82- OEM Timing belt tensioner
$45.00- OEM valve cover gasket kit
$5.48- OEM Throttle Body Gasket
$14.87- OEM vtec solenoid gasket
$15.00- OEM exhaust manifold gasket
$15.00- OEM hondabond gasket maker (price per tube)

Head Assembly

$160.64- OEM ITR ouver valve springs
$90.00- portflow inner valve springs


Optional parts

these are parts that are optional but will help get the most power and "fun" out of your new motor


Transmission:

$67.22- OEM pilot and thow out bearing
$349.00- OEM ITR 4.7 final drive set
$799.00- OEM ITR LSD

Head:

$239.00- CTR intake camshaft
$210.00- OEM ITR intake manfold (fits ITR and B16 head only)


Exhaust:

$349.00- JDM ITR 4-1 header

This thread was made to work in conjunction with BamBam's ultimate LSvtec build guide

Ultimate LSvtec build guide

feel free to PM me with any questions you may have, I spent the day creating this thread to help the the less informed people of what parts to buy, and the cheapest places the but them at.

There will be more parts added to this list, If you find a cheaper price from a reputable shop or I have left anything out then PM me with the price and link and the thread will be updated

Modified by DC2 Mang at 2:37 PM 5/23/2007


Modified by DC2 Mang at 2:41 PM 5/23/2007

 

sweet good thread thanks i'll be referencing this daily.

 

anyone have any feedback as to any parts I may have forgotten or should list?

 

dont see anything missing...ill let you know as i go through my build tho

 

This and Bambam's thread should be sticky.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont see anything missing...ill let you know as i go through my build tho</TD></TR></TABLE>

all feed back is appreciated

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This and Bambam's thread should be sticky. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that would be nice but im not too sure how to go about cantacting a moderator about it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This and Bambam's thread should be sticky. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Great thread, STICKY por favor.

 

Great post.

 

thanks guys

 

good info

 

Thanks for posting this man, really appreciate it.

 

is that full race lsvtec conversion kit similar to the golden eagle one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by super_nguyen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is that full race lsvtec conversion kit similar to the golden eagle one? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I replied to your PM with the answer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This and Bambam's thread should be sticky. </TD></TR></TABLE>
MANLAW

 

Great post
Most of those oem parts can be bought cheaper thru online honda & acura sites though.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
http://www.slhondaparts.com/
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/
http://www.barancoacuraparts.c...e.jsp

just my .02

 

sticky plz

 

MANLAW

 

Thanks

 

you might want to add in stages as to power levels you might want and setups you can run at those levels...things like you dont NEED the cams you listed. etc etc.

also...the link for jdm header isnt right. just wanted to let you know!

re: oil line - there has been discussion as to the full race kit not flow as much as the golden eagle. i dont know whether its true but its something to consider...ill be running the GE full kit

 

I have listed the parts in Required, Recomended, and optional and the cams are under the optional category

and thanks, ill fix the header link

 

Im not an engine expert, but can you just simply slap the 2 together and run it fine with all those parts? Or do you need to balance and blueprint the block? My friend tells me you have to do this.

 

also, can you use any cheap old b16 head? Or would it be better to get a gsr head or something

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lghnea &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not an engine expert, but can you just simply slap the 2 together and run it fine with all those parts? Or do you need to balance and blueprint the block? My friend tells me you have to do this. </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lghnea &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, can you use any cheap old b16 head? Or would it be better to get a gsr head or something </TD></TR></TABLE>

with those parts yes it will run fine, most people balance the rotating assembly for extra insurace at high rpms, but honda crankshafts are balanced very well from the factory, the most un-balanced part of the rotating assembly is usually the clutch and flywheel

you can use an old 1st gen b16 head (89-91) but I would reccomend replacing the valve train because it is getting around 16+ years old.

As for head selection the main difference between the P72 (gsr) and P30 (b16) head compared in stock form is that the GSR head has a smaller combustion chamber volume due to the quench pads on the head which also help reduce flame travel across the top of the piston. The GSR head also flows more CFM than the P30 (b16) head. But the B16 head is said to have better air flow characteristics in stock form

either one will work fine with any LSvtec setup, but I would look more in depth to see which head seems to be more appealing for your specific setup.

 

be careful if your going to run a gsr head..it will bump up your compression. im using it to get in the 12.1:1 range because im going to be running very large cams. and its a purpose built high comp 93 octane street motor.

balancing is not needed, although for insurance im running gsr main caps with the factory girdle, this along with arp rod bolts will make me safe-ish to around 87---9k rpms. due to where the ls/v setup will make power, this is definetly revving high enough and i will probably set a rev limit at about 8500 pending tuning.

like dc2 said...any b16 head will work just take into account how old it is and go from there.