I've been told that even the OBD2 JDM engines keep the crank sensor in the dizzy and did not move it down into the crank. Is this true?

If it is, I guess I would just have to swap oil pumps. Or rewire the distributor? I hate wiring and like having the engine run on stock ECUs. That said, though, I now have a US OBD2 ECU, a JDM OBD2 ECU (that might work?), and some Civic ECU that I usually use.


Also, any commentary on how bad vibrations without BS get or how to pull axles would be great

 

i know that the Type S motor is a direct swap for the SH so i would imagine it has the crank sensor on the oil pump. Might want to contact steve at Hmotors and see what he says. I'm sure the base model OBD2 H22a has the same setup as the type S.

not having balancer shafts is about like installing ES motor mount inserts.

pulling axles is easy:
pull the lower ball joint nut off and remove the hub nut
pull up and slide the hub out of the way while pulling the axle out of the hub at the same time
use a pry bar where the axle goes into the tranny and push it out
done

 

It's actually a H22 out of an Accord...

I haven't really looked at the wiring yet. I guess I can email Steve, although I am not exactly a customer.

Glad to hear about the axles. I don't know what ES motor mounts are like either. The closest thing to vibration issues I had was when my SMS header was banging against my front crossmember. I just ask because I've seen so many conflicting answers about how bad it is. And I'm cautious, since according to H-T the straight though magnaflow exhaust setup I used to have is often considered "quiet". Of course, I'm asking you, Mr. half an apexi exhaust dude

 

i dunno how to explain it then, lol.

with the ES mounts and balancers completely removed, the car definitely vibrates but i got used to it and just raised the idle higher so its not as bad.

and i dont have that exhaust setup anymore. Currently have a vibrant muffler sticking out the back, but that is soon to be replaced by a shorty 3" with a turn down

 

Yeah, I know. Even worse, it can catch your gas tank on fire

I wish choosing between BS belt and no BS belt was more easily reversible...

 

keep everything the way it is, only wire the plug (crank sensor plug) from your engine harness to the distributor. I believe there are 2 or 3 wires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keep everything the way it is, only wire the plug (crank sensor plug) from your engine harness to the distributor. I believe there are 2 or 3 wires</TD></TR></TABLE>

So that's to say the crank sensor is still in the JDM OBD2 dizzy?

 

This is the same problem i had months back during my F20B swap... Its a pain in the *** and took me a very long time to figure it out. The basic idea is that because you no longer have the sensor in the oil pump, you can either A swap over your USDM H@2 oil pump with sensor assembly, or run the JDM dizzy which has the sensor in it and run that sensor to your harness where it used to plug into the oil pump.

3. The stock usdm H22 dizzy doesnt have TDC and CKP sensors, only the CYP sensor SO!!!!! we need to use the F20b obd2 dizzy(internal coil). Here is where i had to brute force learn everything!
you can either use the internal coil and then tap the three sensor wires and run a new TACH signal from inside, or you can convert to external coil and then connect the sensors.

HOWEVER in order to hook up the sensors correctly you need to take off your dizzy cap, remove the rotor, find the ICM and rewire every terminal on it to your stock H22 harness. You need to tap the right terminal for TACH signal which the f20b DOESNT HAVE(terminal is there but no wire is hooked up)! then you need to tap the three ingition coil wires,BLK/yell, green, yellow green, And also connect your 6 TDC, CKP and CYP sensors to the stock H22 harness(red,blue,white,black,yellow,green). So you have a total of 10 wires coming out of your dizzy as opposed to the stock 8.

This was VERY involved and another interesting thing that i found out was that the STOCK H22 service manual says that the Green in the dizzy should go to Green outside when indeed this isnt true. I forgot what color the two wires that needed to be crossed were but i have it written down on my service manual if anyone needs it. Two of the ICM terminals are indeed backwards and will not work if wired the way honda says it would.

 

use an internal coil OBD1 distributor and wire the 2-3 wires from your crank sensor(from your engine harness, since the JDM motor does not have the crank sensor) to the distributor. This was what I did

 

It's set up now with the OBD2 Accord distributor converted to external coil and wired to output RPMs as well. I'll see how well it works tomorrow.

And yeah, no crank sensor down there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eucalyptus lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is the same problem i had months back during my F20B swap... Its a pain in the *** and took me a very long time to figure it out. The basic idea is that because you no longer have the sensor in the oil pump, you can either A swap over your USDM H@2 oil pump with sensor assembly, or run the JDM dizzy which has the sensor in it and run that sensor to your harness where it used to plug into the oil pump.

3. The stock usdm H22 dizzy doesnt have TDC and CKP sensors, only the CYP sensor SO!!!!! we need to use the F20b obd2 dizzy(internal coil). Here is where i had to brute force learn everything!
you can either use the internal coil and then tap the three sensor wires and run a new TACH signal from inside, or you can convert to external coil and then connect the sensors.

HOWEVER in order to hook up the sensors correctly you need to take off your dizzy cap, remove the rotor, find the ICM and rewire every terminal on it to your stock H22 harness. You need to tap the right terminal for TACH signal which the f20b DOESNT HAVE(terminal is there but no wire is hooked up)! then you need to tap the three ingition coil wires,BLK/yell, green, yellow green, And also connect your 6 TDC, CKP and CYP sensors to the stock H22 harness(red,blue,white,black,yellow,green). So you have a total of 10 wires coming out of your dizzy as opposed to the stock 8.

This was VERY involved and another interesting thing that i found out was that the STOCK H22 service manual says that the Green in the dizzy should go to Green outside when indeed this isnt true. I forgot what color the two wires that needed to be crossed were but i have it written down on my service manual if anyone needs it. Two of the ICM terminals are indeed backwards and will not work if wired the way honda says it would.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What Distributor do you have. I'd like to verify that mine is the same before I start hacking into it.
Thanks

 

I am doing the same conversion right now. I am putting an F20B into a 1997 Accord. The Accord is OBD2a and has the crankshaft sensor on it. The F20B is OBD2b and does NOT have the crankshaft sensor on it. After some research, I have found that F20B, and many other OBD2 JDM engines use OBD1 distributors!

I was not anticipating this at all when I purchased the motor. I assumed that OBD2 motor would have the oil pump sensors and it would just plug and play. WRONG!

So anyway, I do not want to go out and buy a 1997+ Prelude oil pump with the crankshaft sensor. I do not want to go buy a 1997+ Prelude Distributor.

I need to run the wires from the oil pump sensors into my distributor. Which wires though? There are 4 wires coming off of my 1997 Accord oil pump. Green - Red - White - Blue

There are 5 wires going into my 1997 Accord distributor. This makes a total of 9 wires for Accord, 5 on distributor, 4 on crank.

There are only 8 wires going into my F20B distributor.

I am running a chipped p28 with obd2->obd1 conversion harness so I don't need to mess with CKF. I just need to move TDC and CKP correct?

How many of the 4 oil pump wires have to be added to the F20B distributor?

 

I could really use some input. I have a 1997 Accord EX and it has an Acura CL 2.2 distributor on it. The distributor plug is huge and retarded and has only 5 wires in it. What a pain.

Here is a pic



My wire harness on my 1997 Accord has the other side of this plug on it. I have to make it fit the F20B distributor. I have to run all 4 crankshaft sensor wires into the F20B dizzy plug right? The 5 wires that are coming out of the Accord Distributor harness, plus the 4 wires that are on the crankshaft makes 9. The F20B dizzy only has 8 wires?

 

With the OBD2B Accord motor into my Prelude the lack of a wire was caused by the OBD2B Accord distributor not having a RPM output wire. I'm not sure if that would be the same deal for the US Accords.

I could go look at the colours that go to CKP/TDC tomorrow if you would like. I can't get into the grisly details, though, I turned to someone much more clever to build me a harness that I just plugged up.

 

so you have to add the 4 wires from the oil pump to the dizzy?
im also stuck on this subject..i know sum things like wiring the rpm signal onto the empty blade on the ICM to the blue wire. wat about the extra 3 wires from the f20b dizzy? where do those go?

 

My USDM Oddy 97 had an a jdm stock f22b6 engine swap. I'm pretty sure that that now it has an OBD1 engine (not an OBDII since there is not CKP harness at the crank). Ever since it's runs rough and misfires on all 4 cyl (no other codes beside misfire) except p1399 (random mifire).

Initially it did not startup or would start for a sec and then bog down. to make (or rather keep it started) my mechanic used s flat screwdriver to adjust a screw on TB. Ever since it's starts but usually not the first time I crank (esp when engine is cold). Idles fine when I first start (cold) but after warming has rough idle (engine shakes a bit).

I can tell it's running very rich cause you could get high on the exhaust fumes and I'm getting Crappy mileage. Car seems to run fine on highway though giving bad mileage (in town and on highway).

I've changed everything. Sparks, dizzy, wires, TB (to a USDM one) and Fuel filter.

ECU and Harness still stock OBDII USDM. Was told that I need to replace injectors to USDM ones cause JDM ones have different cc and flow rates? Anyway that didn't make much difference cause I'm still getting misfires on all 4 cylinders. Also compression is 180 on all 4 cylinders.

There are two ways to go about this:

METHOD 1:


Replace all these from the OBD2 engine:

*Oil pump
*Crankshaft Position Sensor
*Crankshaft Timing Gear (OBD2 one has 12 pins on it)
*Crankshaft Pulley (harmonic balancer pulleY)


Except USE OBD1 Distributor in the OBD2 Dist housing (excluding the Crank Position Sensor).

METHOD 2:

Run the OBD1 JDM dizzy which has the sensor in it and run that sensor to your harness where it used to plug into the oil pump. So the CKP wires will ride the signal of the CKP sensor that's on the OBD1 JDM dizzy.

METHOD 2 seems like it's easier on my pocket but too involved without proper diagrams and help.

Can someone who had already done the bypass technique give me some encouraging diagrams or a guideline.

Thanks

 

BUMP, tried wiring my JDM OBDII internal coil distributor, and it cranks but does not start or throw codes. No spark is present.

 

2000 prelude with the same problem.. I 're-wired I need help!! There's no spark.

 

Obd1 help...

got a 95 accord ex 5 speed..swapped h22a4 which i guess is the atts addition .. but anyway, using accord harness obd1 2 plug dizzy 7 pins in one two in other.. can someone tell me how to wire ckp sensor off oil pump to dizzy or to car harness... pls help... getting no spark