I am wanting to swap a B18c into my 95 civic. but I live in a very gay state called Virginia that requires emissions. I have heard that people have had problems with passing emissions after they swap with a larger engine. I have no idea if that is true or not, don't really know anything about it. Any input would be helpful... Thanks

 

Every state is different. One of the state that is hard to pass emissions is California. The others are less strict.

The general criteria to pass is:
For Visual.
1. The engine swap should be newer than ur current engine
2. All emission equipment on the new engine should be intact and in working condition once the swap is complete. Parts like Charcoal canister, O2 sensors (2 of them if OBD2) and Catalytic converters.
For the actual test.
1. Ur New engine should pass CO2, NOx and HC emission criteria for the year of the donor car.
Example. If ur current car was a 1992 Honda civic and the donor B18C1 was a 1995 integra GSR, ur hybrid will have to pass emissions set for the 1995 Integra. (This rule MIGHT differ for each state)

This info should get you started. Some state even ask for documents on where you got ur engine to make sure its not stolen.

Hope this helps out.


BTW, ur local DMV should have all the information u need. It only take a 10 minute call.


[Modified by johnd, 3:10 PM 7/15/2002]

 

CA is the hardest to pass -- they actually do that damned visual inspection...
NY and NJ are supposedly the next hardest...
And further supposition is that MD is the next hardest to pass after those 3...

I never said a word about my swap to the tech... They put it on the treadmill test and couldn't even get a reading. So they gave it the tailpipe test, and it passed with flying colors.

IMHO, I say just give it a shot, unless you're running either a gutted cat or a test pipe, you should pass... Just make sure you drive around for 20+ minutes prior to the test so that the catalyst (assuming you still have one) is nice and hot.

HTH,
- Steve


[Modified by ZylexSNL, 4:40 PM 7/15/2002]

 

Cool, yeh Virginia is right up there in hard to pass. But hey thanks guys for all the help!

 

just be glad you dont live in southern california (LA metro area) you guys are very lucky


[Modified by CIVICtypeS, 1:02 AM 7/16/2002]

 

Well considering Houston took "smoggiest city" cup from the LA guys, I'm sure TX will follow with even more strict emissions laws. Yay!

 

what part of the state are you in i live in roanoke va and have never even had the hood opened on any of my veicles or a emisions check and its a good thing on some of my other cars but i would sugest taking a drive and bypasing the bs. Some of the stations here are dicks about lowering and things like that just know your crap when you go and show the guy that he is wrong in his book.worth a shot

 

Dallas has the new obd testing where they hook your car up to a scan device(under the dash) and check all the sensors. They don't even tail pipe test it . Everything on mine was complete except for the evap purge sensor(91) and it still passed Ha ha ha ha ha
The dude did look at me weird for having the nitrous bottle right behind my seat.

 

how do they hook something up and check all the sensors? i just had mine done and i don't think they touched the inside of my car at all, but they still stuck something back near the tail pipe.

 

I forgot, they only do the sensor test for the obd2, obd1 gets the new dyno test(harder to pass than regular tail pipe.) Every so often they single someone out and rig something to test it in actual driving conditions on the highway. Hope that never happens to me.

 

What does have a different motor in your car have to do with emissions?

 

96+ OBD test - hook up to DLC under dash, analyzer communicates with ECU. If the analyzer determines the MIL is on, then there is a relevant emissions fault code in the ECU, or the sensors are not in their ready state, and then you fail. There is a visual inspection on the MIL light as well. It needs to come on with IGN in the accessory position and go out once you start the car. So if you pull the bulb (MIL) to try and trick the inspector, or are doing repairs, and reset the ECU by pulling the battery) you fail. If you disconnect the battery to try and reset the ECU right before you go in for the test (this sometimes makes the check engine light work as if nothing is wrong), you can pass the visual, but you will fail when the analyzer and ECU begin talking. The sensors will not be in their ready state, and a drive cycle is needed to put them in their ready state. This usually requires about 20-30 miles of all different types of driving. After you've driven that far, chances are the MIL will come back on if you have a problem with a sensor or component.

95 down - same tailpipe test as always except harder because you are loading the engine down by driving it on the dyne. Also stricter standards...all as of May 1, 2002, in TX.

In TX, I don't know what this has to do with swapping engines. 96 up gets OBD test, 95 down gets ASM (dyne test), simple as that. The only time an OBD car can get an ASM test is if the analyzer cannot communicate with the OBD ECU, assuming there is no apparent damage or interference to the DLC connector. Then we can enter a 96+ car as a 95, and continue with an ASM test.

As far as the visual goes on the emissions components we look for the following (if applicable): CAT, TAC (thermostatic air cleaner), PCV system, EGR system, AIR (air pump, injection, reaction systems), EVAP systems and gas cap (presence and pressure test). We dont check the year of engine, look at engine codes, etc, not yet.

This is TX's new emission inspection procedure.

 

College Station, TX.......they've never even opened the hood. Test brakes at the dealership by driving into the service bay and checking "OK" when it doesn't hit the front of the bay!! Beep horn, flash lights, and that's it folks. Takes 5 minutes. Pitiful.

Steve

 

I disconected my battery and cleared the only code I have(91 evap sensor) and when the analyzer went to look for codes it did not find any. All the codes said that they were ready except for the evap. It said not ready and the dude giving the inspection said he never seen that yet. The computer said I passed though so I got my sticker. As soon as I saw not ready I though I was fuct but its all good. The check engine light will come back on after a few days though, I kinda like it now.

 

I've seen some sensors say they are not ready, and there is no "ready result fail" from the analyzer (usually from pulling the battery).

But everytime I've pulled the battery, reconnected it and immediately did an OBD test the car would fail for "Ready Result" (not a sensor "Not Ready")

Did you drive the car around after you reset the ecu?

 

They are still required to open the hood, check brake fluid, power steering fluid, leaks, belt condition, presence of emissions devices....i say "required"..but..

That is gay that they didn't.. They'll get their license suspended one of these days.. From what I understand, they do 2 undercover tests each year for each station, but hell maybe that's only for emissions counties..