Do i need to use a block guard or resleeve my block if im running high comp pistons. around 11.0.1 ratio. maybe a bit more.
And what vavletrian is best for 10,000 rpm, or is it even possible??

 

Block guard is a good thing to have. As for 10k rpm its very possible but there is no point in reving that high. It puts your valve train through alot of stress and its very very risky.

Read a little bit more about valve train setups and then decide what you think is best.

 

I don't think its necessary to have your motor sleeved unless you plan on going with a higher(EX:12.5 CR) compression ratio in the future. I'm running 81.5mm PR3's on stock sleeves.

As far as the 10k revs go...like PuroMotor said, its not worth it reving to 10k. 9000-9500 is just fine.

Start searching and reading about different valvetrain setups. There is alot to learn on here. Information at the touch of a finger! Good Luck with your build

 

ok, will a block guard be fine if i get the block reboard after fitted?
ill have a search on valve train.

 

Not sure I understand your question. Could you rephrase?

Your asking if you can install a block guard after you get the cylinders bored?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darrenVT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, will a block guard be fine if i get the block reboard after fitted?
ill have a search on valve train.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand your question and the answer is YES. You must machine the block after installing the block guard if you want to do it correctly.

ON EDIT: This is assuming you are at least doing a clean-up bore.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I understand your question and the answer is YES. You must machine the block after installing the block guard if you want to do it correctly.

ON EDIT: This is assuming you are at least doing a clean-up bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im going to get it board to 81.5mm.

is it best to weld the guard in? and where abouts should i weld?

sorry for silly questions, just want to get it right

 

I don't think you'll need a block guard for this build

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think you'll need a block guard for this build</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't weld it, that's an intrusive process IMO.

I think that if you are going to machine it anyways, put a guard in...I would. I have an STR, I don't even know if they make them anymore but that design is far better for cooling then the other's I have seen with no side reliefs and 1/4" holes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I wouldn't weld it, that's an intrusive process IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, whats the best way to fix the guard in place?

 

if you do want to run a blockguard, it would be safe to tack it in place and deck the block so that there is no chance for the blockguard to wander.

honing to size is a must after the blockguard is installed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wed3k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you do want to run a blockguard, it would be safe to tack it in place and deck the block so that there is no chance for the blockguard to wander.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will tack it in place then

what do you mean deck the block?

 

Seriously, what are you plans for the build? I really doubt you need a block guard.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2242142
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2054965

 

you do not need a block gaurd and you do not need to tack it in if you did....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you do not need a block gaurd and you do not need to tack it in if you did.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would like to agree however id rather be safe than sorry.
decking the block is the same procedure as surfacing a cylidner head.

like others said, you probably ownt need any sleeve reinforments unless you are trying to hit 100% over your stock hp.