i got a TYPE R swap in an eh hatch with a fully ported and polished gsr head, it has R cams, a japanese OEM TYPE R 4-1 header and a skunk intake mani,

THIS THING IS A TURD I MEAN BESTING A 14.8 ON THE TRACK TYPE OF TURD.

I've had several well experienced drivers also take it down the track and they finally believed me that it was not my driving but that the car really has no power.

It seems to have no low end torque, and VTEC is about as quiet as a single cam and just about as worthless..

the head was on a gsr block before this and ran AWESOME so i know it's not in the head or cams, i did a compression check and it's not the greatest but not that bad

1 220
2 210
3 200
4 205

i've changed the vtec valve assembly for one off a friends car that i know works and it did not seem to make it produce any more pressure, the filter is clean also

the oil pan was off and i cleaned the pickup screen and everything seems straight in the rod caps and all.

so anywho hopefully someone has a better idea of why it's slow, i have not yet done a leak down test or put it on the dyno to see what it is actually making but i will try to do that here in the next few weeks


Modified by sblazin at 2:28 AM 5/18/2008


Modified by sblazin at 1:31 PM 7/6/2008

 

What ECU are you running?

 

i ran three differnet ecu's all were chipped, one was some skunk2 chip and the other 2 were custom burned chips but those ecu's work great in my friends cars so i'm pretty sure that is not the problem,

and all the ecu's were not tuned for those cars, simply bought and plugged in so i know it's not just that they were specifically tuned for those other cars

 

How does the car idle? With those cams it should be as smooth as stock. If not maybe off a tooth on the timing belt.

What about the reading the spark plugs. Rich or Lean? What type of plugs?

Is there any way you can get some A/F readings?

Try to get a tunable ECU and get it tuned.

 

THE CAR IDLES A LITTLE MORE ROUGH THAN MOST HONDA'S I'VE OWNED BUT I'VE CHECKED TIMING AND HAD SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE CHECK TIMING AS WELL AND IT IS NOT OFF.

I HAVE BEEN TALKING TO TOM (PAC WEST)A HONDA SHOP WITH ALOT OF EXPERIENCE LOCAL TO ME WHO HAS BEEN TINKERING HERE AND THERE A HAIR WITH IT LIKE 30 MINS AT A TIME AT THE END OF THE DAY, BUT HE IS SUPPOSED TO TAKE THE CAR SHORTLY AND TRY TO FIGURE IT ALL OUT I'M JUST TRYING TO MAYBE FIND HIM SOME GROUNDS TO START WITH.

CAR HAS BRAND NEW OEM REPLACEMENT NGK PLUGS, AS FOR PLUG READING I HAVE NOT GOTTEN THAT FAR YET, I HAVE MESSED WITH FUEL PRESS UP AND DOWN AND HAVE NOT GAINED ANYTHING YET.

HOPE TO GET AIR FUEL READINGS SOON

S300 HONDATA IS COMING AS SOON AS HE TAKES THE CAR, I'VE BEEN ANXIOUSLY WAITING TO GIVE HIM MY LAUNDRY LIST OF PARTS TO ORDER BUT I WOULD LIKE TO FIND THE NO ***** ISSUE BEFORE I THROW A BUNCH OF AFTERMARKET PARTS AT IT.

 

also just FYI this head on a stock GSR block that had been boosted before i had it,

was on it's last leg and an open diff GSR trans that was toast and literally ground

every gear in it ran a 14.0 on bald street tires with a terrible reaction time and a

2.4 60 ft in a hatch so my best guess is it has to be internal in the block or trans

but i highly doubt that the current trans (ITR) has anything to do with it

 

I'm thinkin a fuel problem, hows the fuel filter? injectors?

My friend got a jdm GSR engine and it was quiet WOT on the intake side..

so i scoped it out, timing was spot on.. but the fuel pressure was at 25 psi..

we jacked up the fuel pressure to 42psi and the engine came alive..

it could be a sensor issue also. try one of your friends throttle bodys... to make sure your tps is ok.

now that I think of it, make sure your throttle plate is opening fully.. take off your intake tube and have a friend hold your gas pedal down fully then look at the TB and make sure its opening from the pedal fully, you may need to ajust your throttle cable, ive seen that before also

 

the fuel filter is new, injectors are clean and spraying correctly, i got an adjustable regulator and while at the track turned it down to 30 and worked back up to 45 and each i got faster and 45 was when i got 14.8,

i'll see if can can find a gsr TB to throw on for temporary to test that out, the swap has only been in the car about 3 weeks and i put it in myself and the last thing i did before firing it first time in this car was adjust the throttle cable,

lol i never leave that part out

i was slightly suspicious of the vtec iol passages being clogged becasue it seems to be clearing out and vtec seems to be more clear and louder than it was a couple weeks ago,

see when i cleaned the vtec valve assembly screen there was an unimaginable amount of silver and copper but i have cleaned it out and ran it for a week or 2 and checked it again and it hasn't come back yet so i'm pretty sure that the **** came from the LS block that blew up under that head like 2 years ago

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sblazin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the fuel filter is new, injectors are clean and spraying correctly, i got an adjustable regulator and while at the track turned it down to 30 and worked back up to 45 and each i got faster and 45 was when i got 14.8,

i'll see if can can find a gsr TB to throw on for temporary to test that out, the swap has only been in the car about 3 weeks and i put it in myself and the last thing i did before firing it first time in this car was adjust the throttle cable,

lol i never leave that part out

i was slightly suspicious of the vtec iol passages being clogged becasue it seems to be clearing out and vtec seems to be more clear and louder than it was a couple weeks ago,

see when i cleaned the vtec valve assembly screen there was an unimaginable amount of silver and copper but i have cleaned it out and ran it for a week or 2 and checked it again and it hasn't come back yet so i'm pretty sure that the **** came from the LS block that blew up under that head like 2 years ago

</TD></TR></TABLE>

VTEC is either on or off.
if the screen is clogged I could see a VTEC delay or being in/out of vtec with pressure problems.

 

you might have cams ground down to nubs lol

 

well the head is coming back off so i will recheck the cams, as for vtec the filter is clean but when vtec was supposed to hit at 4900 it would seem to lose power until about 5300 or so and then gain a boost of power again. it was very very quiet but back when i ran this head on that stock block gsr and running this same TYPE R header it was incredibly loud, it cracked like a whip but now seems to be alot more quiet.

i know there is a check you can do to check the pressure at the switch and i have not done that yet but the only thing i could think of is that maybe somehow the oil passages running through the head to the vtec valve assembly had gotten clogged or something because just a few days ago it seemed to be bringing a bit more of the old power back.

lol i dunno but it's pissing me off

 

UPDATE THE EXHAUST I HAD ON THE CAR WAS A CUSTOM MADE PUILE OF **** AND WHOEVER RUINED THE PERFECTLY GOOD APEXI MUFFLER THAT WAS ON THE CAR SOMEHOW COLLAPSED THE INSED OF THE MUFFLER OR SOMETHING BECAUSE I RANDOMLY THOUGHT OF PULLING THE TAIL SECTION OFF BECAUSE IT DIDN'T SEEM TO BE FLOWING THAT WELL..............VTEC WILL NEARLY BLOW YOUR EARDRUMS OUT NOW AND IT HAS GAINED MOST OF ITS POWER BACK NOW.

I TRIED BORROWING A CHIPPED P28 ECU WITH A HIGHER VTEC KICK, AT 5700 AND IT MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE COMPARED TO MY ECU THAT KICKS VTEC AT 4900 SO ALL THE PROBLEMS HAVE BECOME KNOWN AND ARE PRETTY WELL FIXED


SO FYI TO ANYONE WHOEVER MAY RUN INTO THESE SAME PROBLEMS.............CHECK FOR SIMPLE SOLUTIONS FIRST

 

Stop screwing around with random ECU's, get a stock ECU for your engine or have it dyno tuned.