Alright, so here’s the deal, up until now I’ve been an all-motor guy, but now I’ve decided to check out the side of life that blows instead of sucks. I’m not completely oblivious to the requirements for turbo setups but I could use some help on the finer points. The car is a 1993 Prelude Vtec with the original H22a1 that just hit 90k and has perfect compression across the board. I’m aiming to run, on stock head and block, 4-5 PSI daily through a 2.5” exhaust (3” down pipe) and 8 PSI max at the strip with open down pipe via electric cutout on 93 octane. This is what my parts list is looking like so far I’m open to any suggestions from those with actual experience.

<U>Fuel:</U>
Walbro 255 LPH pump
FIC 550cc peak and hold Injectors <U>(Is this a good size?)</U>
AEM FPR
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure gauge

<U>Hardware:</U>
Spoolin Performance Manifold
Turbonetics t3/t4 60 trim .63 or .82 AR
Turbonetics Evolution 38mm Wastegate
2.5” Aluminum Intercooler piping
HKS/Greddy/Turbonetics Blow-off valve <U>(Any preferences or suggestions? Trying to stay within these brands because they fit the flange on the piping kit.)</U>
Spearco Intercooler
Boost controller <U>(Electronic or manual? Which brand?)</U>

Besides those few questions above, my main concern is management. Right now I’m only running a VAFC 2 which I’m well aware is horribly inadequate for tuning a turboed car. So what do you guys recommend? My main concern is how I want to be able to change (safely and quickly without a laptop) from the 4-5 PSI 2.5” exhaust street map to the 8 PSI open downpipe strip map. I know changing the boost is as simple as twisting a **** or hitting a few buttons, but is that safe without adjusting any other parameters (Fuel/Timing)? How can I achieve this? Also, will I have to mess with the MAP at all running only 4-8 PSI? Thanks in advance to anyone who replies, I know this was a long post…

EDIT: I already have a few supporting mod's that at the time were for my N/A setup but will help with this...
AEM UEGO Wideband o2
68mm TB and port matched manni with Blacktrax Spacer
Removed A/C
Aluminium Civic Half Rad with Slim fan

Thanks again


Modified by 97Preludeguy at 3:57 PM 5/15/2008


Modified by 97Preludeguy at 3:58 PM 5/15/2008


Modified by 97Preludeguy at 3:58 PM 5/15/2008

 

**EDIT: Ditch the log manifold, especially since you already have ditched a/c

get a bigger turbo, try a t3/t4 .63AR .57 or .60 trim

Don't need the FPR, fuel rail or FPR gauge. the 550 injectors should be fine.


Get a good tuning software and get it tuned. Most important part. Won't need to switch tune when you turn up the boost on the fly since the tuning software retards timing based on how much boost pressure it sees.




Modified by oranginal at 10:31 PM 5/13/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ditch the log manifold, especially since you already have a/c </TD></TR></TABLE>

what?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DfwBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

edited above, i meant since you have already ditched the a/c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oranginal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**EDIT: Ditch the log manifold, especially since you already have ditched a/c...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was worried about cracking with a tubular style manni. I do agree though and I will look into them, just remember however, I'm not chasing huge numbers, and I'm not sure the benefits will out weigh the cost for what I'm after. I basically want a low maintenance, reliable, daily driveable set-up while trying to stay around $2,500-$3,000 tuned and all. Also, just out of curiosity, why go for a bigger turbo? Where would one of the ones you mentioned spool up around/peak at? Just wondering, trying to get all the info I can from people who are more knowledgeable on the subject than I. Thanks again

 

you really dont need the 550 injectors either just get some dsm injectors from a junkyard n rewire them, much more cost efficent for the same results

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreene2098 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you really dont need the 550 injectors either just get some dsm injectors from a junkyard n rewire them, much more cost efficent for the same results </TD></TR></TABLE>

really? would you really do that to ur own car? use some dsm injectors from a car mfg.. that sucks to begin with? REALLY?

 

to op: get some precisions or rc injectors.. what are your power goals?

 

Tune the car for its maximum PSI that you need to run (based on its HP output).

Tune for 5psi, 6psi, 7psi, 8psi.

for management, contact people in your area and see what system they prefer using. You will get the best results from the program they are most comfortable using.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to op: get some precisions or rc injectors.. what are your power goals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really have a set goal as stupid as it may sound. I mean I suppose on the 8psi with the open downpipe I'd like to be somewhere around 300ish, but overall I'm more concerned about feel, reliability, and a usable power curve.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tune the car for its maximum PSI that you need to run (based on its HP output).

Tune for 5psi, 6psi, 7psi, 8psi.

for management, contact people in your area and see what system they prefer using. You will get the best results from the program they are most comfortable using.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I live in the Boston, Ma area and I'm planing to go to Dent Sport. I've heard very good things about them and they've had a few shootout winning cars in Sport Compact Car. So yea, like you said, I'll talk to them about what they would feel most comfortable using.

Should I make any changes as far as plug temp and oil viscosity go? Thanks again to all those helping out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Preludeguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was worried about cracking with a tubular style manni. I do agree though and I will look into them, just remember however, I'm not chasing huge numbers, and I'm not sure the benefits will out weigh the cost for what I'm after. I basically want a low maintenance, reliable, daily driveable set-up while trying to stay around $2,500-$3,000 tuned and all. Also, just out of curiosity, why go for a bigger turbo? Where would one of the ones you mentioned spool up around/peak at? Just wondering, trying to get all the info I can from people who are more knowledgeable on the subject than I. Thanks again </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you buy a well made manifold it won't crack. Trust me it's better to spend the extra money on the manifold now then rebuild your motor later and replace the manifold and change the downpipe and all, especially if reliability is an issue. keep in mind getting the tuning ecu and extras and the cost to get it tuned will run you close to $700-1000 by itself. And always have extra money in the bank just in case things go wrong, you won't want to put the project on hold and have no car to drive.

H22's are big motors and the turbo you selected is pretty small. I'm sure it will work alright and i'm not saying to get a big laggy turbo but you don't want it to choke before it can even hit vtec. a .57 or .60 trim will reach 8PSI at about 2700-3000RPMs, obviously things like the manifold, intercooler piping size, downpipe and exhaust size all play a factor as well.

 

its the exhaust a/r that really determines when your car will spool, and peak, my .63 a/r on the exhaust side was kinda choking it didnt really pull after 5000 i now have .82 i belive it is: and its perfect, but its also ballbearing so spool time is reduced compared to a journal bearing, i would get a 60 trim cold side and a .82 a/r on the exhaust. hondata is definetly what you want to get, also a good manifold spoolin or lovefab.

 

I updated the list with some of your suggestions. Thanks to everyone who's helped me out thus far. So as far as management goes. assuming that the person who tunes my car is comfortable with it, would hondata be the way to go, or could chrome or nuptune work for me to? Thanks again

 

chrome is okay, but hondata is definetly the best, if the tuner is good the tune is good for up to 25 psi all thou you obviously cant run that but the tuning tables are linear, so if you are tuned at 6 psi and your car sees 12 it will be running the right amount of fuel for it, i would also get bigger injectors they cost just as much and youll have room for later, hondata will make it idle smooth, maybe in the 7-800cc range. also no need for the fuel pressure regulater, just another thing to fail.

i just reread your post and honestly if your only gonna run 8 pounds, unless you want to just have the turbo sound (which is fine) i would just run nitrous if your looking for power. i only had a 55 shot on my stock h22 and ran 14 flat on shitty 17's and now with 400whp my best is 13.4 at 120mph, cuz i cant get traction,

but if you plan on building the motor later then your going the right route, which if you turbo it you will need to build it: it wont last all that long, h22's ringlands are really weak