tps or something else?
ok heres my problem i changed 2 tps sensors and i still get the bucking problem...i tested the volts and closed throttle its at 0 volts but at w.o.t. im at 3.6...i did this with the key completely out thas wha the hayne's says....but i read other threads an it says test it with the key in the on position is that true? im gettin constant power to it 5.6 volts so i dunno if its a break in the wire or wha but its aggrivating
also my tach bounces around some time or in other words doesnt move smoothly with the engine it doesnt do it all the time but randomly usually when the car bucks...i unplugged the tps and it still has that jerky feel so im beginning to think maybe its the dizzy? please help
and yes i searched no real solid answer...
also my tach bounces around some time or in other words doesnt move smoothly with the engine it doesnt do it all the time but randomly usually when the car bucks...i unplugged the tps and it still has that jerky feel so im beginning to think maybe its the dizzy? please help
and yes i searched no real solid answer...
i've explained the proceedure in this post.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2292002
.5v with key one engine off and closed throttle from the SIGNAL line. not the reference line (5v) or ground.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2292002
.5v with key one engine off and closed throttle from the SIGNAL line. not the reference line (5v) or ground.
please help i dont want to buy parts i do not need...symptoms are as stated
1.runs fine until warm
2.becomes jerky when warm sometimes
3.while driving will completley bogg down and shut off
4.doesnt turn over as quick as it usually does
tps is now unplugged but yet is still jerky
things changed before problem happened...changed batter from a huge optima to a regular size battery and also went from b16 to ls tranny also changed injectors due to a previous injector cel changed the injectors cel is gone
please help ive searched and searched but no direct answer
1.runs fine until warm
2.becomes jerky when warm sometimes
3.while driving will completley bogg down and shut off
4.doesnt turn over as quick as it usually does
tps is now unplugged but yet is still jerky
things changed before problem happened...changed batter from a huge optima to a regular size battery and also went from b16 to ls tranny also changed injectors due to a previous injector cel changed the injectors cel is gone
please help ive searched and searched but no direct answer
check ur map sensor. i had a similiar prob and changed my t/b and map sensor and it went away. we checked the map and it was really bad. tps was off by .5mv too. car runs 100% better and mieage is way up there now.
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i have msd wires but i overheated a couple times due to a leaky radiator (and no i definitley did not blow the headgasket) i still get spark when the cars on and i pull a wire slightly off so i dont think wire are the culprit...the engine has brand new plugs...and 2 weeks ago it was running completely fine and outta nowhere this happened...keep suggestions coming
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF’n C5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the way, GENERALLY a bouncing tach means the ignitor is going out. Generally. and you should always replace the coil with the ignitor. gl.</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you try any of these?
did you try any of these?
ignition problem. Makes sense that it comes out when the car warms up and not when it cold too. I would check your ignitor and coil. If possible find a good dizzy from a friend and throw it in there. That way you know for sure it's the problem and you aren't replacing parts for no reason.
Okay changed the icm but I used one from my boys obd2 dizzy (dunno if that is compatible) but now I'm actually getting a cel 15 for it (ignition output signal) before the car would run but b sporatic now wit the obd2 icm its not even turnin on....suggestions?
okay changed my dizzy and got my new blox tps on car runs better then it evva has buuuut i cant clear the cel codes i reset it but there still there tps is calibrated and all... ne suggestions?
Update:tpsis calibrated correctly .5v closed but I'm getting 4.6v wide open...so the tps code came back and car is back to running boggy...I unplug the tps and its less boggy but still boggy nonetheless only cel codes I'm throwin are vss and tps need help jus recently replaced fuel filter
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092eg6
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Apr 8, 2010 05:04 PM




