Z6 Build questions
So i'm going to start a build up of an extra Z6 engine I have, and I really want to push a lot of PSI through this thing, I'm going to shoot for 20 PSI daily, and somewhere around 26-30 PSI at the track.
My only question really is what is some advice that you guys would give, like pistons and rods, what to do when I have the engine sent out to get work done. I know I want to bore it .20 over and drop the compression to around 9.5:1. Any other info would be great and some advice. I am doing re-search now to figure out exactly what all i'm going to need an what i'm going to want to do for this thing.
My only question really is what is some advice that you guys would give, like pistons and rods, what to do when I have the engine sent out to get work done. I know I want to bore it .20 over and drop the compression to around 9.5:1. Any other info would be great and some advice. I am doing re-search now to figure out exactly what all i'm going to need an what i'm going to want to do for this thing.
how about this; let's start this way-
what are you power goals?
how much money are you looking to spend here?
what is your definition of "daily"? does that mean streetable car that you can drive on the street and will take out on weekends, or does that mean the car you take to school and work?
also, you might want to check out d-series.org as well since there is ALOT of turbo d stuff going on there as well.
what are you power goals?
how much money are you looking to spend here?
what is your definition of "daily"? does that mean streetable car that you can drive on the street and will take out on weekends, or does that mean the car you take to school and work?
also, you might want to check out d-series.org as well since there is ALOT of turbo d stuff going on there as well.
I'm looking at shooting for close the 300+ HP The car will be used for driving to work and home and taking out for fun on the weekends. As well as maybe some decently long trips.
Money isn't the issue right now, I don't make a lot of money at all, but i'm going to be collecting parts over the next year or so, I don't plan on having this thing built anytime soon. I just want to start re-search and collecting parts. I just bought some Weisco Pistons for the car as well, so parts are starting to come.
D-series.org is the best place to go. Just took a quick look at the most recent posts and I found these you would want to take a look at.
http://www.d-series.org/forums...87123
http://turbod16.com/viewtopic....&sd=a
^Yes I know that one is kind of overkill
http://www.d-series.org/forums...87123
http://turbod16.com/viewtopic....&sd=a
^Yes I know that one is kind of overkill
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Do the build right the first time... With your power goals, you're gonna need to bring the compression down much lower than 9.5:1 (isn't that right around stock anyway?). This sounds like your daily driver... I don't think you really want a daily driver to be a 300whp civic boosted to 20psi
! I'd say keep your compression around 9:1 and your boost between 12-15lbs. That would be a decent all around compromise for power and daily drivability.
Good luck with your build!
! I'd say keep your compression around 9:1 and your boost between 12-15lbs. That would be a decent all around compromise for power and daily drivability. Good luck with your build!
I just bought a set of used Weisco Pistons with only 150 miles on them, I have to replace one piston though. That sets my compression at 8.5:1
http://www.importevolution.com...=3187
Those are the pistons I will be getting in the mail sometime next week. I got a hell of a deal on them too
http://www.importevolution.com...=3187
Those are the pistons I will be getting in the mail sometime next week. I got a hell of a deal on them too
Oh, and have your rods shot peened if you're already doing bottom end work. Put them back together with some ARP rod bolts for a little extra comfort. A set of aftermarket rods isn't totally necessary, but if you plan on tracking the motor, it might not be a bad investment.
Yeah, I couldn't pass up this deal that I got, so I picked em up!
I'll be getting aftermarket rods, I want to make sure the engine is built right the first time. I've never built an engine before so i'm going to get all the parts and take it to a local speed shop to have them put it all together for me.
I'll be getting aftermarket rods, I want to make sure the engine is built right the first time. I've never built an engine before so i'm going to get all the parts and take it to a local speed shop to have them put it all together for me.
bump, what all on the top end should I be doing? I'm still looking to push 20 psi on a daily basis. I don't really know anything about the top end, so some help would be appreciated.
If you're building the head, you could get a cam specifically designed for turbocharged motors. The most popular one has to be Crower's:
http://crower.com/cgi-bin/deta...441zt
Bisimoto is another option:
http://bisimoto.com/wst_page17.html
I have no experience with either of these cams, so I can't tell you anything about them. Find people who have used them and ask them what they think. But just so you know, Bisimoto is NOT a "production" company; they're a team of engineers and racing enthusiasts. If you really want to get the Bisimoto cam, expect a long wait to get the part. Crower, or their distributors will probably get the cam to your door within a few days.
There are other ways you can go about this, and certainly there are cam designers that could build you a custom cam. For simplicity's sake, and because this is your daily driver, I highly recommend a predesigned cam, like one of the two in the links above.
Whoever designs the cam you end up with should be able to recommend what springs and retainers you should/must get. Keep your stock valves, but look into maybe a 3 angle valve job. There are good reasons for doing a valve job, but if you don't feel you can afford it, don't worry about it. Same with a port and polish: the case for a p&p on a turboed head is to avoid reversion of exhaust gases. You can avoid reversion by using a well designed turbo manifold in the first place. Having the head leveled is a good idea, considering the amount of boost you're looking for.
If your pistons are enough to get you the compression ratio you're looking for, you'll be fine with an oem head gasket. ARP heap studs might be a good idea, but again, not totally necessary.
Of all this headwork you CAN do on a turbo D build, the only things I would really recommend for your build are having the head leveled, and getting a new oem head gasket. If you do end up with a cam, make sure you get the springs and retainers recommended for the cam. Also, getting an adjustable cam gear will make your tuner's job a lot easier, and will help you get every pony out of your motor. Consider everything else optional...
Now... about your power goals... I'm sorry to say it, but 20psi on a daily driven civic just doesn't make any sense, especially with a single cam motor that will be harder to tune. Maximum boost doesn't always equate to best performance, and it certainly doesn't equate to optimized drivability. You'd be much better off with a smaller turbo that will spool up quicker and give you some low end power. The setup you're thinking of will be gutless till about 5000-6000rpm! That, and it'll be very hard to tune. You'll have a lot more fun with your car if you stick with a smaller turbo.
http://crower.com/cgi-bin/deta...441zt
Bisimoto is another option:
http://bisimoto.com/wst_page17.html
I have no experience with either of these cams, so I can't tell you anything about them. Find people who have used them and ask them what they think. But just so you know, Bisimoto is NOT a "production" company; they're a team of engineers and racing enthusiasts. If you really want to get the Bisimoto cam, expect a long wait to get the part. Crower, or their distributors will probably get the cam to your door within a few days.
There are other ways you can go about this, and certainly there are cam designers that could build you a custom cam. For simplicity's sake, and because this is your daily driver, I highly recommend a predesigned cam, like one of the two in the links above.
Whoever designs the cam you end up with should be able to recommend what springs and retainers you should/must get. Keep your stock valves, but look into maybe a 3 angle valve job. There are good reasons for doing a valve job, but if you don't feel you can afford it, don't worry about it. Same with a port and polish: the case for a p&p on a turboed head is to avoid reversion of exhaust gases. You can avoid reversion by using a well designed turbo manifold in the first place. Having the head leveled is a good idea, considering the amount of boost you're looking for.
If your pistons are enough to get you the compression ratio you're looking for, you'll be fine with an oem head gasket. ARP heap studs might be a good idea, but again, not totally necessary.
Of all this headwork you CAN do on a turbo D build, the only things I would really recommend for your build are having the head leveled, and getting a new oem head gasket. If you do end up with a cam, make sure you get the springs and retainers recommended for the cam. Also, getting an adjustable cam gear will make your tuner's job a lot easier, and will help you get every pony out of your motor. Consider everything else optional...
Now... about your power goals... I'm sorry to say it, but 20psi on a daily driven civic just doesn't make any sense, especially with a single cam motor that will be harder to tune. Maximum boost doesn't always equate to best performance, and it certainly doesn't equate to optimized drivability. You'd be much better off with a smaller turbo that will spool up quicker and give you some low end power. The setup you're thinking of will be gutless till about 5000-6000rpm! That, and it'll be very hard to tune. You'll have a lot more fun with your car if you stick with a smaller turbo.
Thanks for all the advice man, Very VERY much appreciated. I'll look into those cams and see what I want to do, I deff. want to do this right the first time, so I will be getting a cam, and the springs/retainers, the 3 angle valve job and the head level'd as well. So should I just shoot for lets say 15 PSI? My buddy is running a turbo civic that fully hits boost at 3500 RPM's, but he also has a completly stock engine, minus FPR and all the guages and a chiped ECU, going for a tune sometime soon as well. I love how his car is, how fast it is and everything else, but i'd like to make sure that I can also beat him at the track, and shut up a lot of the local's around here that say honda's are slow and ****. (excuse the language)
I don't plan on having this engine in the car till next winter, so winter of 09 is the plan of putting the engine in, that way I can make sure I have all the parts, and everything is done correctly.
I don't plan on having this engine in the car till next winter, so winter of 09 is the plan of putting the engine in, that way I can make sure I have all the parts, and everything is done correctly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondacivic_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[...] My buddy is running a turbo civic [...]. I love how his car is, how fast it is and everything else, but i'd like to make sure that I can also beat him at the track, and shut up a lot of the local's around here that say honda's are slow and ****. (excuse the language)</TD></TR></TABLE>
NOW i get it... This is about bravado, showing your friend up, proving to everyone that a SOHC honda can put out 300whp... I know exactly where your coming from.
Sure, if you go with a bigger turbo, more boost, etc. you'll probably be able to hit a higher peak hp #... BUT IT"S JUST A NUMBER! A smaller turbo will spool up quicker, will be better for racing around streets where you need some low-mid power, will do better on the track, will be easier to tune and compliment with other parts, will save you money on parts and GAS...
I still think you should stay under 15 psi with your compression between 8.5-9:1. It will be way more fun to drive. And it will still be crazy [freak]in fast! But, that's just my opinion... 20 psi can be doable with that compression ratio. I doubt any higher though...
At this point, I think you should find out where you're getting your car tuned, and ask them what you're capable of running on pump gas with your compression ratio. They might tell you they won't even touch the car if you're trying to do something that won't even be street drivable and you tell them it's your DD. Talk to a tuning expert, the sooner the better, so you know where your headed with the build.
NOW i get it... This is about bravado, showing your friend up, proving to everyone that a SOHC honda can put out 300whp... I know exactly where your coming from.
Sure, if you go with a bigger turbo, more boost, etc. you'll probably be able to hit a higher peak hp #... BUT IT"S JUST A NUMBER! A smaller turbo will spool up quicker, will be better for racing around streets where you need some low-mid power, will do better on the track, will be easier to tune and compliment with other parts, will save you money on parts and GAS...
I still think you should stay under 15 psi with your compression between 8.5-9:1. It will be way more fun to drive. And it will still be crazy [freak]in fast! But, that's just my opinion... 20 psi can be doable with that compression ratio. I doubt any higher though...
At this point, I think you should find out where you're getting your car tuned, and ask them what you're capable of running on pump gas with your compression ratio. They might tell you they won't even touch the car if you're trying to do something that won't even be street drivable and you tell them it's your DD. Talk to a tuning expert, the sooner the better, so you know where your headed with the build.
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d15power
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Aug 11, 2002 09:03 PM



