I'm troubleshooting lack of spark on a 90 Accord engine. I have power to the distributor and the coil. The Coil ohms good between the Primary coil terminal and the secondary winding. I'm unable to get a factory spec reading between the positive and negative terminals, it should be 0.6-0.8 ohms, but when I check a new coil from the auto store the measurement is the same as my old coil. So for now I'm thinking the coil is good. I am now at the ignitor unit. Here is the procedure:

1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and shield.
2. Label and disconnect the 4 wires from the igniter unit.
3. Switch the ignition ON. Use a voltmeter to check for voltage between
the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If
the voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the
igniter and the ignition switch.

4. Check for voltage between the white/blue wire and ground. Battery
voltage should be present with the ignition ON. If voltage is not
present, check the white/blue wire from the igniter to the coil and test
the ignition coil.

Where is the white/blue wire and where does it go? There is none listed
in the diagram and I don't see one on the actual distributor.

5. Turn the ignition OFF. Check for continuity in the yellow/green wire
between the igniter and the ECU.

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6. Check the blue wire for continuity between the tachometer and the
igniter.

Where is the tachometer? Is it the one on the dash? Or is it the
sender inside the distributor?

7. Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue
and white/yellow wires. It should be between 1,100–3,300 ohms. If not,
the igniter must be replaced.

 

Well, based on other posts I replaced the ignition module. Still doesn't fire. Distributor seems to be working correctly though.


I read up on the issue last night and have some things to test. Will take some time to get to them and test but it's necessary since the dist appears to be working like it should. The ECU controls the igniter and the ECU determines when to fire the igniter based on the crank angle sensor.

That's a sensor and two sets of wires going from the engine to the ECU and back again that could be the problem. If the Crank angle sensor is bad or the wires don't have connection to the ECU, the ECU will not let the dist fire, that's where I think the problem is right now based on what we've uncovered so far.

Any thoughts?

 

notice any red looking dust inside the distributor housing? that's a good sign the CYP is going bad.

 

The igniter went bad on my 1993. I remember the wire colors not matching exactly with the book (what else is new?).
I don't remember having to check anything with the tach, but did check for bad wire from ECU to igniter.
I also remember the diagnostic procedure forces the tech to deduce that the igniter is bad, because the other things tested aren't bad, rather than a test that directly shows the igniter to be faulty.

I was never a Honda mechanic, but worked on a lot of ford and chevy. Never saw an ignition coil go bad. never saw an ecu go bad. not that it's impossible, just unlikely.

I'd say either the sensor or the igniter is bad. Don't know the procedure for testing the sensor.

 

Ok. Tried many things today and still no running engine.

1. Replaced ignition coil. Still no spark.
2. Took a known good distributor off of a 91 Accord and put on my car. My car ran for about 10 minutes and then died. Checked and gues what? No spark.
3. Put the good distributor back on its own engine and it started right up.
4. Put both distributors side by side and they ohmed identical.
5. Replaced ECU with a spare ECU. Still no spark.
6. Noticed Tach is NOT moving upon attempted starts. Stays at 0.

Previously checked and found power throughout the distributor.

Need HELP!!

 

check the power wire coming off the dis. make sure it not cruded, or broken, i had the same tech prob w my 90 accord

 

I am having the exact same issue right now. In for results

 

Have you checked your fuses/relays? If not that, it really sounds like a bad wire.

 

check t-stat ground

 

Hello all,
It sounds like it is the igniter. I am having problems with my 1992 accord which it will start up and idle fine, but the problem seem to start as the engine warms up. The tach will jump causing the car not to run properly and will even cause the engine to stall. I tried to follow the igniter procedure test but could not follow it tot he end. I did google this problem and found out the the igniter are known to go out and will vary depending on the severity of the igniter. Auto zone has one for $48.00 or so. Does anyone agree that my problem (as well as others here) seem to point to the igniter. I replaced the cap and rotor and all of the grounds are tight with no visible rust. Trying to get this car fix to give to my son. All comments are welcome...thanks in advance.