HELP...TILTON CARBON TWIN DISC..CAN'T DOWN SHIFT..
Sup GUYS,
Im running a Tilton twin disc carbon clutch on my 98 teg.
Having a little problem, the car won't down shift into 2nd from 3rd while driving, only goes into gear when i come to a complete stop, any one here had this problem.
Checked for leakage(clutch fluid) and its fine no leaks.
Any ideas?
thanks
Im running a Tilton twin disc carbon clutch on my 98 teg.
Having a little problem, the car won't down shift into 2nd from 3rd while driving, only goes into gear when i come to a complete stop, any one here had this problem.
Checked for leakage(clutch fluid) and its fine no leaks.
Any ideas?
thanks
Try shifting without the clutch (at a reasonable RPM) and see if the car will go into gear. If it does, check your pedal travel.
the tiltons has a certain pedal travel. if you dont adjust your pedal stop you actually bind the fingers on the pressure plate making the clutch stick, therefore not shifting. this happens more on the down shifting side too.
the way you fix the problem is to adjust your stop until it goes into al gears smoothly. its a 2 man deal. one adjusts while the other presses the clutch and shifts the gears
the way you fix the problem is to adjust your stop until it goes into al gears smoothly. its a 2 man deal. one adjusts while the other presses the clutch and shifts the gears
the carbon tilton uses, doesn't last very long under extreme abuse/wear and tear. (preloading this clutch kills it)
i suggest to use the flow control valve with this unit. you can purchase one through wil @ exospeed.
if possible, i would survey the carbon unit every race. it can tell you how much wear your doing and keeps an open window for you to service it properly.
tilton is a great clutch, but seems like it needs so much attention.
rps carbon/carbon has had its share of problems. but now, its totally care free and i dont need to check it every race.
i suggest to use the flow control valve with this unit. you can purchase one through wil @ exospeed.
if possible, i would survey the carbon unit every race. it can tell you how much wear your doing and keeps an open window for you to service it properly.
tilton is a great clutch, but seems like it needs so much attention.
rps carbon/carbon has had its share of problems. but now, its totally care free and i dont need to check it every race.
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the only ones ive seen last a season was ones with flow control units on them with all the tlton recommended parts ie: throw out bearing master slave and flow control.
some people that only use the clutch itself, have some wear issues.
edit: all clutches out there have its share of crazy mind pondering problems, no matter what you will have some guys have great sucess and some others that just destroy units in 2 races. its just good to let people know what kind of mess they could possibly see so that they can fix them quickly.
some people that only use the clutch itself, have some wear issues.
edit: all clutches out there have its share of crazy mind pondering problems, no matter what you will have some guys have great sucess and some others that just destroy units in 2 races. its just good to let people know what kind of mess they could possibly see so that they can fix them quickly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrParks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the carbon tilton uses, doesn't last very long under extreme abuse/wear and tear. (preloading this clutch kills it)
i suggest to use the flow control valve with this unit. you can purchase one through wil @ exospeed.
if possible, i would survey the carbon unit every race. it can tell you how much wear your doing and keeps an open window for you to service it properly.
tilton is a great clutch, but seems like it needs so much attention.
rps carbon/carbon has had its share of problems. but now, its totally care free and i dont need to check it every race. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know about that. I have been running the Tilton CC clutch for a while now on my street car. Lots of street miles and plenty of track passes (30+). No adjustments made so far and it still shifts like butter. I am running the stock TO bearing and the flow control valve.
i suggest to use the flow control valve with this unit. you can purchase one through wil @ exospeed.
if possible, i would survey the carbon unit every race. it can tell you how much wear your doing and keeps an open window for you to service it properly.
tilton is a great clutch, but seems like it needs so much attention.
rps carbon/carbon has had its share of problems. but now, its totally care free and i dont need to check it every race. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know about that. I have been running the Tilton CC clutch for a while now on my street car. Lots of street miles and plenty of track passes (30+). No adjustments made so far and it still shifts like butter. I am running the stock TO bearing and the flow control valve.
The Tilton carbon/carbon will last longer than any clutch you can buy. We've gone years of racing on a single pressure plate (comes with extras for when it wears). I'd say that is completely wrong about it wearing out fast.
To the OP, if it's only 1 gear you're having problems with it's 99% a transmission problem (syncro).
To the OP, if it's only 1 gear you're having problems with it's 99% a transmission problem (syncro).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FTP racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok did that......it won't go into gear, but what i did find out is if i release the pedal like a 1/4 of the way i can get it into gear...hope this info makes sense.</TD></TR></TABLE>adjust ur pedal stop.
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From: R.I.P Brian Arbogast...you will be missed, maryland, USA
did you ever get this issue fixed? im having the same problem with my CC twin disc. i cant down shift from 4-3 but i can put it in 2nd then it will go right into 3. i took the trans apart and everything looks to be ok. trans never grinds in any gear. just lock me out of 3rd on down shift
like mentioned before,it sounds like you are pushing through the diaphram. is your pedal engauging high? if so, the reason it will release when you raise the clutch is that you don't need that much travel to disengauge it, so it is trying to engauge again when you push it to far. this can be solved by a pedal stop or adjusting the pedal to where it engauges lower so you don't push it to far.
anybody have pics of their pedal stops?
I was thinking of putting a threaded rivet with a bolt and a nut. would that be enough?
I was thinking of putting a threaded rivet with a bolt and a nut. would that be enough?
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From: R.I.P Brian Arbogast...you will be missed, maryland, USA
do you guy think it will change anything if i use a -4 an line or a -3? my car has a -4 line on it now and most ppl i see use -3
I have run the Tilton for 3 seasons and jojo ran it 1/2 a season before that if i remeber correctly both in HR trim. Never had any wear issues at all, never checked the clutch other than when we would go though the motor. I gauge a product by how much you worry about it braking. I never worry about the clutch! The tranny now thats a different story.
I have Tilton pedals so i just threaded a bolt through it with a jam nut. Many people weld a nut or threaded plate to the floor board with a piece of all thread or a bolt with a wleded "Y" or a bump stop and a jam nut.
I think you can thread a bolt were the clutch swich goes or maybe the stock pedal already has a stop. It's ben so long I forget.
Just i case anybody wanted to know...it wasn't a clutch or pedal stock adjustment....1-2 gear synchro s were bad, rebuilt with OEM parts now its amazing!
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From: Between the hills of Downtown LA and Pasadena
Going to bring this car back out to any local events this yr? I remember seeing this car about 2yrs ago in Fontana.
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