brakes
ok i got a 92 si hatch (wit rear disc if you dont know that si come with them) but any way i put new drilled and slotted rotors and new pads on my car in the rear but when i did it, the back piston screws in to the housing unlike the front well i screwed it the wrong way and then the caliper wouldnt work right i smelled my brakes buring
and the e- brake only would grab the other wheel but today i put a new caliper on the the e brake still dont work right i done tighted the nut thes under the armrest and it still aint right is there a way to adjust it on the caliper its self? i did bleed the brakes but could my 50/50 valve have went bad or master cylinder be going bad cuz last week when i but the rotors and pads on my front brake line busted and i drove it back home like that and the master cylinder was empty but the time i got home so i did bleed the brakes then but today i blead them again cuz of the new caliper help
and the e- brake only would grab the other wheel but today i put a new caliper on the the e brake still dont work right i done tighted the nut thes under the armrest and it still aint right is there a way to adjust it on the caliper its self? i did bleed the brakes but could my 50/50 valve have went bad or master cylinder be going bad cuz last week when i but the rotors and pads on my front brake line busted and i drove it back home like that and the master cylinder was empty but the time i got home so i did bleed the brakes then but today i blead them again cuz of the new caliper help
with no offense, but how did you screw them on the wrong way? you did turn them to the right, right?
also, the burning smell that you are getting, are you sure it's not from the leak you had?
you were able to get everything on the rotor and bolt everything up. i would think that there is air in the systemand that's why the caliper will not work, especially if you got a new one and the problem persists.
are you bleeding the brakes according to sequence?
also, the burning smell that you are getting, are you sure it's not from the leak you had?
you were able to get everything on the rotor and bolt everything up. i would think that there is air in the systemand that's why the caliper will not work, especially if you got a new one and the problem persists.
are you bleeding the brakes according to sequence?
i turned it to the left not paying attention and the burn was coming from the back wheel but i was looking at my master cylinder and at the bottom of the brake booster it was wet and the paint was coming off so i need a new master cylinder right?
and do 50/50 valves go bad?
and do 50/50 valves go bad?
i know i am dumb lol but i turned it a couple times and wasnt watching and it popped apart so i just screwed it back together and i thought i would have still worked but it didnt
Oh yeah, and when you install new brakes, they usually need to break in. So drive around a bit. When I changed my brake pads, they were rubbing softly on the rotors so I just drove it around until it wasn't rubbing anymore. The rotors were so hot, that when I spat on them, it boiled and vaporized.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SpoolnG2
Forced Induction
16
Jun 17, 2004 07:35 PM
X2BOARD
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
58
Nov 7, 2003 12:58 PM




