SpoolnG2

OK..brakes worked fine for a while...no problems. Then i was getting a rubbing sound from the back. So i figure what the heck and get all new pads and rotors for the whole car, and 2 brand new calipers for the rear (they were sticking). Put it all on...bleed the brakes...go to drive it and the pedal basically goes to the floor. Thought i still had air in the lines...gravity bled the brakes for 20 minutes..then bled them with presssure 5-6 times for each side. The pedal is nice and stiff...i go to start the car, and then boom the pedal is like mush again. Whats the deal???? I didnt touch anything but the rotors/pads/rear calipers. Anything or any help would be great. thanks a lot guys.


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Suprdave

Brake Booster

ek9vboi2

brake booster too. try bleeding it while caris on, but most like the brake booster is done.

SpoolnG2

why would it work fine ..........then i just change pads/rotors/rear calipers and now all of a sudden it doesnt work? Like how does a break booster just go all of a sudden?

james111

its not the booster, booster failure is noticable by a stiff pedal....
do u have abs?
if so , u have air in the module......call honda or if theres napa parts store they have a bleed pattern book they will give u the pattern....

james111

if no abs then u may not have bleed in the right pattern either....acuras and hondas have a strange pattern that i just cant remember right now....

u may have gotten air up to the master cyl, if so u need to bleed the master first and yes it has a specific bleed pattern also.....

also make sure brake bleeder is facing up , theres a specifoc left and right caliper...if the caliper is on the opposite side it will also go to the ground once started...

SpoolnG2

i didnt realize you had to bleed your breaks in a specific order. what order is that?

ek9vboi2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoolnG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt realize you had to bleed your breaks in a specific order. what order is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it was the furthest from master cylinder to the closest.

pass. rear, driver rear, pass front, and then driver front.

also, it could be a loose bolt! somewhere along the suspention, happened to a friend of mines. he went Big brakes and his brakes felt like it wouldnt stop for ****. lol, it was funny. good luck!

BTW we thought it was the brake booster too...

turbohondask

for the integra pass. rear, driver front, driver rear, pass. front.

SpoolnG2

ok well i def. didnt bleed the brakes in that order for starters. also, what exactly do u guys do to bleed your brakes? like what do u do? i did something..but i wanna hear how u guys do it.

SpoolnG2

i'm thinkin i fucked up on the bleeding order...the only way the master cylinder or abs modulator would get air in it is if i sucked it that dry...or if i took one of the lines off

the way i bled the brakes the very first time was...

driver rear/passenger rear/driver front/passenger front

then tonight when i redid it, i didnt even do the front ones....i just did the driver rear first...then the passenger rear second

james111

well, anything?????????????

DaX

iTrader: (1)

MC could be leaking internally.

SpoolnG2

not exactly sure what happened. I drove the car and for some odd reason the brakes seem fine. I dont ask.

Mr. Softee

you had brand new pads, you needed to set them in.

james111

its possable that on one side the pad sat crooked just slightly , when a hydralic{ms} system doesnt have equal pressure it will sink.....i had the same problem with my protege once , the guide ppin was sticking and it would cause the pads to catch on i\one side and the pedal would sink everytime.......


weird to say the least ,,, do one last look over the system and make sure it looks normal....and then if it stays fine screew it chalk it up to gremlins.....


regards
james

Turbo E

did the pedal gradually sink to the floor PRIOR to the brake fix? if so your MC is done.