Hello friends,
I replaced the master cylinder in my 92 prelude with a lot of difficulty and with your help.
Had to flare the brake line etc.
Anyways I installed everything there are no leaks at the fittings ..pedal feels solid.
As soon as I start the engine there is no brake pressure and the pedal goes all the way to the floor. Pumping the pedal has no effect. The fluid in the reservoir drains slowly.. As soon as I switch off there is a sucking sound .. as if air is getting in somewhere.
And there is pressure in the pedal.
Please help
Thank you in advance

Jay.
PS I do not know it this could be relevant but my friend who was trying to help unscrewed the part that sits in the middle of the two brake line ports in the master cylinder by mistake. The part that uses an allen key for removal. He put it back as it was .. but could that create a problem. ?

 

So...you didn't mention anything about bleeding the brakes. You guys bled it right? You're going to have to bleed the brake system a LOT to get all of that air out.

 

re bleed your brakes, come back.

 

Hello again,
Been bleeding the brakes.
I could not get the bleeder screw to turn in the right rear wheel.
Tried everything including vise grips.
Bled all the others about 4 times.
There is a little brake pressure. Now when I start the car the pedal does not hit the floor. After repeated pumping I can feel the pressure build up. The reservoir drains though.
When I switch off there is tons of pressure in the pedal and there is the same old sucking sound from around the vacuum booster.
Please help. I am almost at the end of my tether here.
Thanks for all the advice.
J.

 

Please have a look at my previous post.
One more thing..
When the engine is running and I pump the pedal on and off .. the rpm changes a little .
And all the way down.. it sounds like it is going to stall..
Honestly this is driving me crazy.. It's been a year I am playing around with it since I was sold a non abs master cyl for my abs car from the leading part source in town.

Thanks people for all the help.

 

i don't know what your problem is exactly, but im trying to clarify for maybe someone who can.

1)when u turn on the car, the brake pedal is even softer than before? (normal - brake booster)
2)when u push the brake pedal down, have u looked at the brakes to see if they're engaging? if theyre not engaging fully, have a professional bleed your brakes.
3)the RPM thing sounds like u have a vacuum leak somewhere which helps diagnose
4)do u know if u have a leak in ur brake's hydraulic system?

hope that helped clear it up for you and whoever can help you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaideep_asokan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I could not get the bleeder screw to turn in the right rear wheel.
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You have to bleed all 4 wheels to get the air out, you can't just bleed 3 and expect it to be OK. Find some way to bleed that caliper....

 

make sure you bleed the caliper furthest from the master cylinder first and then the next furthest, and so on. be careful not to bust the bleeder valve or else you will have to buy a new caliper. try 6 point deep well socket or a line wrench. me tinks 10 mm

 

That could be a problem if he took it all the way out. The pin on the end of that screw seperates the front and rear pistons and will not go back in all theway once removed. Also you said you put a non abs m/c, did you also put in the non abs prop valve?<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaideep_asokan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS I do not know it this could be relevant but my friend who was trying to help unscrewed the part that sits in the middle of the two brake line ports in the master cylinder by mistake. The part that uses an allen key for removal. He put it back as it was .. but could that create a problem. ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

could also have a major vaccum leak