got 4 brand new oem brake pads and got my rotors resurfaced,

install had no problems,

except after i did my brakes i forgot to brake them in, ie 15 mph roll, 30 mph roll,

but i did do it about 1 hour later for a few times..


but how come its making this lil grinding noise sometimes at certain speeds when im rolling / turning ? is it b/c its new pads?

also should i brake in my brakes again? ie 15 mph roll , 30 mph roll ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J.nguyen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got 4 brand new oem brake pads and got my rotors resurfaced,

install had no problems,

except after i did my brakes i forgot to brake them in, ie 15 mph roll, 30 mph roll,

but i did do it about 1 hour later for a few times..


but how come its making this lil grinding noise sometimes at certain speeds when im rolling / turning ? is it b/c its new pads?

also should i brake in my brakes again? ie 15 mph roll , 30 mph roll ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what the hell is a 15mph roll? i do not realize you need to drag race to "break" in oem "brake" pads

did you reset the rear piston all the way? did you adjust the parking brake cable? is the brake dragging when it's fully release? did you bend any dust shield while working on it?

put the whole car on stand and see if you get any resistance with the ebrake handle fully off vs couple clicks

 

15 mph roll then brake hard, then 30 mph roll then brake hard. i was told by multiple friends that tahts how to reset the pistons, but how else would u reset the rear pistons? i mean i turned them with the tool like how i would do with an integra before puttin the new brakes on..

 

your friend are moron, the front pistons are can be reset by using a clamp, the rear piston needs to be push in all the way by turning the piston. did you turn it all the way or you stop just because your new pad can fit in?

when you doing with braking the car hard is called break in or bedding in, oem pad do not called for such process. most of the street pad had a thin break in coating/surface to eliminate the need for hard bed it. track pad is totally another subject, but if you don't see they recommend doing it, dont do it.

just put the car up in the air to see if you are dragging the brake

 

^ i think ur mis understanding what im sayin, but yeah of course i used a C clamp on the front and used the special tool for the rear to spin the piston in, i did them all the way.


but ur saying i dont need to brake them in ? thats good news


but yeah will do, i always thought i felt a little bit slower on the acceleration / felt a drag ever since i did my brakes, but that might be my imagination?

will check it out, thanks for your help

curious though what would cause my brakes to be dragging?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J.nguyen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^ i think ur mis understanding what im sayin, but yeah of course i used a C clamp on the front and used the special tool for the rear to spin the piston in, i did them all the way.


but ur saying i dont need to brake them in ? thats good news


but yeah will do, i always thought i felt a little bit slower on the acceleration / felt a drag ever since i did my brakes, but that might be my imagination?

will check it out, thanks for your help

curious though what would cause my brakes to be dragging?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure your e-brake is fully disengaging from both rear rotors when you depress it.

 

basically all i do is jack the car up on stands / or go on a lift

spin the rear rotors with the ebrake all the way down

and then make the e-brake few clicks up and spin it and see if it's the same or not

 

you sure the dust shields aren't touching the rotors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Sport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you sure the dust shields aren't touching the rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats the first thing that came to mind

 

maybe my rear brakes arnt dragging? i just raced few of da homies s2ks and i got them all, so i know my performance isnt lacking then .

might be the dust shields now right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J.nguyen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe my rear brakes arnt dragging? i just raced few of da homies s2ks and i got them all, so i know my performance isnt lacking then .

might be the dust shields now right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

drag racing your homie isn't going to solve any problem, i think i said it like 3 times already, put it on a lift and see if you have any drag with the ebrake all the way down vs. 1 to 2 click.

for ap1 the e brake fully engage should be somewhere around 9-13 click.

maybe it's time you take it to someone that actually know what to look for, no offense but yeah.

you can guess all you want but if you want to make sure, have it checked out.

did you install the shim? sometime what happen is people pry off the old shim and accidently bent the shim, with the shim not sitting straight you pad could be sitting in an angle vs flat. it's common for cheap aftermarket all in on pad(aka embedded shim) to have clearance problem, although it's not likely for oem pad.

yeah, oem do not call for aggressive break/bed in process, just take it easy on them.

 

I race my homies all da time

 

yeah im going to get it checked out asap once i have time, the only free time i have is at night, thats why i havnt been able to get it on a lift, have to wait until the weekend then