For my Sophomore Design class, we needed to make something in the machine shop that we desigined and built ourselves. For my project, I did a DIY road race shifter. Now, before I start getting flamed about how I copied the FLP let me remind you that this setup works better, was a whole lot cheaper, and I needed to make something for the class.

I started by buying a steel fidanza short shifter on ebay for $27 shipped. You can see how much shorter it is than stock:



A note to anybody who wants to get one of these (or most short shifters), its going to hit the exhaust at some point. I did not know this, so it came as a surprise to me. I ended up rotating my catalytic converter and flipping my shift linkage upside down to avoid cutting anything, although I did have to take the heat shield off the cat.

I spent a good amount of time in solidworks going through a couple different ideas for the shifter, but this is what I came up with:



Pinch bolt on the bottom and set screw on the top. In the car:



And finally, an idea of the throws:



I used a macro lense for the previous picture, so the throws look a little longer than they are. There is about 2" between the **** and the steering wheel in 2nd gear. It puts the **** right where you'd expect it to be and allows shifts to be made with almost no thought involved. Overall, I'm very pleased with how it came out. I would be willing to make more since I have extra material if the interest is there.

 

I guess i get to be the first to say awesome work on the DIY. I love when people do this kind of stuff - it's what is great about the honda faithful!

One question though...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> this setup works better</TD></TR></TABLE>

How exactly does this setup work better? I drive my 90si daily with an FLP shifter and it is pretty much flawless. If you make this kind of claim, you need to at least provide some supporting evidence. BTW - my FLP shifter never has hit my exhuast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wilky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How exactly does this setup work better? I drive my 90si daily with an FLP shifter and it is pretty much flawless. If you make this kind of claim, you need to at least provide some supporting evidence. BTW - my FLP shifter never has hit my exhuast. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahaha, I knew somebody was going to say something about this. I said that because from the pictures I've seen, the FLP does not get as close to the EF steering wheel as mine does. Plus, I can always re-bend it if I want it a little closer - the shaft is aluminum instead of steel.

After installing the short throw and noting it hitting the exhaust, I checked out some pics of the FLP. Instead of having a rounded bottom like the fidanza short throw, FLP puts a flat spot on the bottom of their shifter. It still has issues with the shift linkage and the exhaust though, check out this thread (https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2086137)

 

Badass work, dude! I've got a couple test mules to try them on if you can crank out a couple more. We'll make an injyneer out of you yet!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Badass work, dude! I've got a couple test mules to try them on if you can crank out a couple more. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ME TOO ME TOO...and unlike the trader above they all have little "H's" on them not silly bow ties.

Looks good Vmonster

 

The OEM has the counter balance on the shift linkage. On the FLP, it's been added.
So far I'm very happy with the FLP. It's actually back ordered for all models.
Nice DYI. Should have it test it on a race track

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaak-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Should have it test it on a race track </TD></TR></TABLE>

In a few weeks it will be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hahaha, I knew somebody was going to say something about this. I said that because from the pictures I've seen, the FLP does not get as close to the EF steering wheel as mine does. Plus, I can always re-bend it if I want it a little closer - the shaft is aluminum instead of steel. (https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2086137)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't get me wrong... you get a big from me for doing it yourself. In my book, that alone makes it better. Keep up the great work.

BTW: How much would these be if you were to sell 'em?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wilky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't get me wrong... you get a big from me for doing it yourself. In my book, that alone makes it better. Keep up the great work.

BTW: How much would these be if you were to sell 'em?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks man, I love doing this kind of stuff

PM for pricing.


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 11:20 AM 4/13/2008

 

What I like the best about this idea, is that when you dont want the look of a trucker, you can simply unhook off of the bottom and slap a **** back on.......just use a thin plastic sleeve inbetween so the threads dont get mashed.


I like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hahaha, I knew somebody was going to say something about this. I said that because from the pictures I've seen, the FLP does not get as close to the EF steering wheel as mine does.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The FLP is adjustable. You can swivel it as close to the steering wheel as you want it. My FLP is actually adjusted closer to the steering wheel than your shifter is; when I was setting it during installation, I could actually make it hit the wheel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plus, I can always re-bend it if I want it a little closer - the shaft is aluminum instead of steel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aluminum with that amount of leverage and bends made while in solid state? No thanks. One of the main reasons I bought the FLP was because of its steel construction.

It's great that you're into DIY and all and bonus points for making your own functional part, but most people cannot appreciate the amount of engineering that actually went into the FLP shifter. The simple look of it fools most people into thinking that they can improve on the idea, but I've yet to see a DIY shifter that turned out even as good, let alone better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIred91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just use a thin plastic sleeve inbetween so the threads dont get mashed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The pinch bolt shouldnt damage the threads at all. Thats the whole reason why I went with one insted of a set screw.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when I was setting it during installation, I could actually make it hit the wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I misjudged then, the offset must be pretty high.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aluminum with that amount of leverage and bends made while in solid state? No thanks. One of the main reasons I bought the FLP was because of its steel construction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont know how you shift, but in order to bend it that little ammount in the first place I had to put my entire body weight into it. Plus aluminum work hardens, so the bends are less ductile now. I would not, however, use an aluminum short throw.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's great that you're into DIY and all and bonus points for making your own functional part, but most people cannot appreciate the amount of engineering that actually went into the FLP shifter. The simple look of it fools most people into thinking that they can improve on the idea, but I've yet to see a DIY shifter that turned out even as good, let alone better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

After making my adapter, I can fully appreciate the ammount of work that goes into those. If its made on a lathe like I think it is, you've gotta have a CNC or a really tallented person to get something that looks that good. As far as the functionality of it, I dont see how mine and the FLP differs. They both move the **** next to the wheel with about stock throws, although I will say that the FLP looks a bit better. I just need a longer shift boot now...


Modified by Voodooboy520 at 4:31 PM 4/13/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The pinch bolt shouldnt damage the threads at all. Thats the whole reason why I went with one insted of a set screw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good call. I took notice of that choice and I think it was great for that reason among others.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I misjudged then, the offset must be pretty high.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is, but it's hard to gauge in many photos because you can't get a realistic perspective. Just like how your stock steering wheel in the above photo appears to be about 6' in diameter, but we know it's not.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know how you shift, but in order to bend it that little ammount in the first place I had to put my entire body weight into it. Plus aluminum work hardens, so the bends are less ductile now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm just wary of aluminum in certain applications because of the finite fatigue life. Some areas need to be pretty beefy (the Circuit Hero extension, for example, is rather skimpy and looks crap). But I'm no engineer . . .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would not, however, use an aluminum short throw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mentioned that earlier - good call. The majority of aluminum shifters out there are crap, and the end would break off in no time once you bolted the extension up and got some heat from the exhaust soaking through.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After making my adapter, I can fully appreciate the ammount of work that goes into those. If its made on a lathe like I think it is, you've gotta have a CNC or a really tallented person to get something that looks that good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The FLPs are made on a CNC lathe and the counterweight is TIGed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the functionality of it, I dont see how mine and the FLP differs. They both move the **** next to the wheel with about stock throws, although I will say that the FLP looks a bit better. I just need a longer shift boot now...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd have to feel it for myself to make a final judgment, but realistically if yours is sturdy and has a similar feel then it does perform the same function for a fraction of the price. It's a matter of whether the appearance factor is worth more money to you or not.

 

what my FLP looks like in the car
neutral

first gear

second gear

third gear

fourth gear

fifth gear

reverse gear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm just wary of aluminum in certain applications because of the finite fatigue life. Some areas need to be pretty beefy (the Circuit Hero extension, for example, is rather skimpy and looks crap). But I'm no engineer . . .</TD></TR></TABLE>

As an Engineering student, this is one of the issues we had to consider. The max stress is actually going to be at the base of the short shifter, you get a stress concentration with the sudden change in diamiter.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF001282 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what my FLP looks like in the car</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah yes, these are the pics I was looking at. Is that a prelude ****? I think I have one like that.

I should also mention that its not quite done yet. I'm going to look into a longer shift boot so all you see is the alumium rod, and I was considering painting it black