i got one side of the rear disk swap done, and dont have time to finish the other side for a little while (its not a dd). i threw in the 40/40 prop, and now im trying to bleed the one line so i can take the car out of the garage.

i hooked up my vac pump to the fresh swapped side, and nothing happens. opened the bleeder, and nothing happens....and the pedal feels like everything is bled, its nice and stiff...what the hell am i doing wrong????

all 3 other brakes still work just fine and the pedal is stiff as before, yet i know there is no fluid in the one i just swapped, and stepping on the pedal seems to do nothing...

anyone have any ideas/hints/tips?

 

bump...no one?

 

Are you sure you got a good prop valve? Because when i swapped my brakes the prop valve i got wouldn't send pressure to my rear brakes and i ended up having to go to the old one. i would try to connect the caliper directly to the prop valve and see if it gets pressure then you"ll know if its a bum line or a bum prop valve

 

^ Thats possibly correct. Also check the piston in the caliper and make sure it is fuctioning I guess the easy way would be to open the nipple a little and turn the piston (clockwise I believe). I had a problem similar to yours but mine was concerning the fact that I wouldnt get any pressure. I let all my valves open at each corner at got nothing (Im talking 12hr gravity bleed). Come to find out my damn MC was seized.

 

well thats the odd part.

the mc isnt the issue because the front brakes work just fine.

the prop may be the issue since i got it off ebay. ill swap the stock one back in (how bad is it to run disks on a drum prop valve for a little while??)

my other guess is the caliper, but it didnt seem any fluid was getting to the back even if i disconnected the line.

the lines are brand new ss, so i dont see them being bad, and there were zero brake issues before this.

is there anything built into the system that would keep fluid from running to that side? say a safety valve type deal that makes sure your other 3 brakes stay working in the case of one failing? ive seen that on other cars before. in which case it should be fine when i change the other side.

 

I believe that the ek prop valves are all 4040 and they do not need to be changed. Just a heads up.

 

interesting, i coulda sworn they were different. i picked it up on ebay for 10 bucks anyway so no loss. ill swap back to the other prop valve and see what happens...thanks!

any one else have any input?

 

take off the caliper and rotate it clockwise (tightening). you should see fluid come out of the hole for the brake hose. If no fluid then my guess is the caliper is bad.