Part #'s for LCA bolts.
The part # thread found in the FAQ isnt workin for me
I'm going to be changing out my stock LCAs for some skunk 2's when I put my PIC suspension and my bolts are seized to the bushings which I know is quite common.. Therefore I need the part numbers for the bolts on the LCAs I believe there is four?
Thanks in advance
I'm going to be changing out my stock LCAs for some skunk 2's when I put my PIC suspension and my bolts are seized to the bushings which I know is quite common.. Therefore I need the part numbers for the bolts on the LCAs I believe there is four?Thanks in advance
If you are getting Skunk2 LCAs, I believe the one bolt going through the strut fork will be shorter maybe for non-R LCAs.

#35/34 - 90173-SR3-003 BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80) [QTY: 4]

#19 - 90172-SK7-A01 BOLT, DAMPER (LOWER) (10X84) [QTY: 2]

#35/34 - 90173-SR3-003 BOLT, ARM TORQUE (LOWER) (10X80) [QTY: 4]

#19 - 90172-SK7-A01 BOLT, DAMPER (LOWER) (10X84) [QTY: 2]
Have you tried hitting the bolts with some penetrating oil, let it sit over night, and then hit it with a impact gun? Just a thought, but fresh bolts and parts are always a good idea as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you tried hitting the bolts with some penetrating oil, let it sit over night, and then hit it with a impact gun? Just a thought, but fresh bolts and parts are always a good idea as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive read some things youve said before and said nothing about it, but with all your suggestions to people lately when you have no idea what your talking about is driving me nuts, the bolts get seized in the bushings and are near impossible to get out which requires a new bushing and unfortunately a new $8 dollar bolt
ive read some things youve said before and said nothing about it, but with all your suggestions to people lately when you have no idea what your talking about is driving me nuts, the bolts get seized in the bushings and are near impossible to get out which requires a new bushing and unfortunately a new $8 dollar bolt
Yet somehow I just went through this same problem last week and I got my bolt off....somehow I just built my motor and installed it back in my car and yet I have no idea what I'm talking about....right. If you want to be an ******* then do it to my face at Expo or another time. Till then keep your smartass remarks to yourself, you know NOTHING about me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yet somehow I just went through this same problem last week and I got my bolt off....somehow I just built my motor and installed it back in my car and yet I have no idea what I'm talking about....right. If you want to be an ******* then do it to my face at Expo or another time. Till then keep your smartass remarks to yourself, you know NOTHING about me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ha ha no need to get all butt hurt, just dont give advice if you dont know what your talking about or atleast mentioning other possibilites
9/10 times the head of the bolt will snap off and you will not be able to get it out
ha ha no need to get all butt hurt, just dont give advice if you dont know what your talking about or atleast mentioning other possibilites
9/10 times the head of the bolt will snap off and you will not be able to get it out
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ive read some things youve said before and said nothing about it, but with all your suggestions to people lately when you have no idea what your talking about is driving me nuts, the bolts get seized in the bushings and are near impossible to get out which requires a new bushing and unfortunately a new $8 dollar bolt</TD></TR></TABLE>
toties' advise was good advise....9 times out of 10 that will work. or if you tighten the bolt slightly then go to loosen it. in all the cars i've lowered i've only busted 1 rear bolt (and i've lowered at least 100 of them)
they are NEAR IMPOSSIBLE but if you put some penetrating lube on them that usually helps!
ive read some things youve said before and said nothing about it, but with all your suggestions to people lately when you have no idea what your talking about is driving me nuts, the bolts get seized in the bushings and are near impossible to get out which requires a new bushing and unfortunately a new $8 dollar bolt</TD></TR></TABLE>
toties' advise was good advise....9 times out of 10 that will work. or if you tighten the bolt slightly then go to loosen it. in all the cars i've lowered i've only busted 1 rear bolt (and i've lowered at least 100 of them)
they are NEAR IMPOSSIBLE but if you put some penetrating lube on them that usually helps!
i never said it wasnt good advice, but from my experience up here in the northeast they bust off 9/10 times
im personally doing it to my car on wednesday and i just ordered the correct bolts ready for the bolt head to shear off (already tried with an impact and they would turn out of the nut but not move at all in the bushing
im personally doing it to my car on wednesday and i just ordered the correct bolts ready for the bolt head to shear off (already tried with an impact and they would turn out of the nut but not move at all in the bushing
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i never said it wasnt good advice, but from my experience up here in the northeast they bust off 9/10 times
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which is where they rust, and have different issues than other cars in other parts of the US.
I'm on the same boat as Chad... most times you have to tighten it just a little bit to get it to back off. (as well as some penetrating lube)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which is where they rust, and have different issues than other cars in other parts of the US.
I'm on the same boat as Chad... most times you have to tighten it just a little bit to get it to back off. (as well as some penetrating lube)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Which is where they rust, and have different issues than other cars in other parts of the US.
I'm on the same boat as Chad... most times you have to tighten it just a little bit to get it to back off. (as well as some penetrating lube)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish it was that way up here
sorry to bust your ***** totsie
btw i heard a rumor that those bolts were on backorder and according to my honda dealer as of today they are not on backorder anymore
Which is where they rust, and have different issues than other cars in other parts of the US.
I'm on the same boat as Chad... most times you have to tighten it just a little bit to get it to back off. (as well as some penetrating lube)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish it was that way up here
sorry to bust your ***** totsie
btw i heard a rumor that those bolts were on backorder and according to my honda dealer as of today they are not on backorder anymore
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R Legend »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is part 20-21 called. The large assembly that is circled?</TD></TR></TABLE>
rear trailing arm
rear trailing arm
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