I've read here in the forums and in the FAQ's that this swap my not be as reliable as the stock H23 or stock H22 because the H23 crank isn't made for the high rpms that the H22 ECU allows.

My Question:
What rpm should I set my redline to after the swap that will keep the H23 crank reliable and still get good vtec performance out of the head?

The engine internals are all stock, and it is a daily driver.

Thanks.


Modified by munky_350 at 11:00 AM 4/9/2008

 

I have heard that about 7400 is good. check the faq though.

 

I have the H23vtec and it revs up like my H22 and I think my H23A has the same crank as my H23A1. I think it might rev up relatively safe but not too sure.

 

I've read alot of testimonials that sound GREAT but cant find someone who went from an H22Vtec to an H23Vtec. (most are all H23n/a swapped to H23Vtec)
I'd like to know that I'm not downgrading by any means and it wont make my prelude any slower than the current H22 Vtec I have now...or any less reliable to drive everyday.

Once I know that, it will be getting started asap.

I appreciate all your help.
Thanks.





Modified by munky_350 at 1:55 PM 4/9/2008

 

Where does it stop making power?

 

How long do you want it to last?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How long do you want it to last?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ding ding ding.

if it was built properly (rotating assembly machine balanced) then shift it like an h22. If nothing was done to the rotating assembly, shift it lower for longevity. Between h22 redline and h23 redline.

 

Just my opinion but i have my H23 vtec redline set to 7500 with crosover at 4500. I have only taken it over 7k maybe 1-2 times but that was only because of traction issues and 2nd gear. Typically would shift no later than 6800 maybe 7000, not making power after that anyways so no real point in going past it especially if your stock.

PS, also just my opinion, but i dont see the point in going from a H22VTEC just to have a stock H23VTEC unless your H22 has problems.

 

on the drag strip, there is a point. But only if you are willing to test your engine building capability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BUILT93ludeSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just my opinion but i have my H23 vtec redline set to 7500 with crosover at 4500. I have only taken it over 7k maybe 1-2 times but that was only because of traction issues and 2nd gear. Typically would shift no later than 6800 maybe 7000, not making power after that anyways so no real point in going past it especially if your stock.

PS, also just my opinion, but i dont see the point in going from a H22VTEC just to have a stock H23VTEC unless your H22 has problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have vtec set arbitrarily or because that's what smoothed the engagement area? Seems a little low.

 

i've tuned vtec to 4200 on a stock internal h22a before

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2269162

 

That's a crapload of midrange area you gained, crapload. I hope no one looks at this and sets their vtec that low without due reason though.

Btw, this the first I'm realizing the existence of the ECU Tuning forum.

 

i had to beg for it

 

Yes, My H22 has a knock and that is the . It's not a very loud knock but it is there, and will only get louder and eventually cause complete engine failure.

So instead of replacing the rods, bearings, crank, etc; and paying for a complete engine rebuild on top of that, I will just replace the entire block with an H23 block from a Prelude which the body was recently totaled but the engine and trans still run great and come out with alot less time and money in it.

unless anyone knows where to get rods, crank, bearings for under $500 (which is the cost of the donor Prelude)