I know you guys might be tired of answering this but i really need your advice.

Basically my EK is running on a B16A with the following parts inside:
- ITR Intake manifold
- Spoon throttle body
- Mugen air box
- ITR valvetrain
- CTR piston inside B16A block
- Toda A cam
- Hytech header
- Spoon N1 catback
- test pipe
- P2T CPU (factory setting)
**The last time i go on dyno without hytech header is around 159whp, will post up dyno graph once I scanned it**

Ok, here is my goal:
- 190~200whp (stick with Toda A cam & Apexi PFC for tuning)
- reliable & endurable engine (I don't go 8K everyweek, and only once track day per year)
- DD car

Many ppl in Hong Kong telling me to go B20, they told me it is totally different world compare with b16/b18 and it can catch up with DC5R easily without any goodies in there. The reason I doubt is because I read post saying B20 has thin engine wall, i don't want to fix the motor every month after this build, the last build for my EK.

Further I know if I get a B18C, i can just bolt it on without any thinking, but how about B20? I heard you need lots of modification if go for B20, what is that? What piston should go in there, what is the redline for B20? How to make it safe enough to take my son and my wife for long trip every weekend?

Sorry for my bad english but I hope there someone can really help me out. To be honest, i'm glad that I found HT as my best learning platform.

BIG THANKS in advance for your answer or any input.

 

My b20vtec is making almost 190 hp and 136 tq after the last tuning session, I have since added a toda header vs a jdm itr copy. Probably didn't pick up much peak hp but the mid range gain is very noticable.

My b20 build is
b20b STOCK BOTTOMEND
block guard
pnp b16 head
itr cams
toda header
blox intake manifold
65 mm tbody

basically a 95% stock honda part build!

The car is a 1994 civic cx. Weighs in at 2450 with me in the car, full interior minus back seats (22 lbs) because I drive the car to and from the track and need the seats out for storage.

Daily driving it is awesome. Rev to 5k and shift. Redline is at 8300. I'll be popping the head off in the next week to check the walls out. I have about 500 track miles on it and the bottomend has probably 75000 miles on it and 11000 with the vtec head. And I beat it up, and my friends beat it up.

I was still making power at 8300. I'm probably gonna add some pistons at some point cause i could pick up an easy easy 20hp with the RS ITR copy pistons but I don't want to do a full rebuild right now.

I have had an ITR engine and with PowerFC and toda header, aem short ram and everything else 100% stock that combination netted me 192 whp and 124 tq. There is a difference driving them. The itr wants to be rev'd and was pretty quick. Side by side I think they would be close. Both eninge combinations had a 4.9 final drive itr/b16 tranny bolted up. I think if the b20vtec had a gsr tranny with lsd and a 4.9 or a 4.785 it would make the engine last longer.

Revs on the freeway are at 5000 at 78 mph. Vtec is set at 4900 so I have to drive under 78 mph so that I get better than 18 mpg!

It is a toss up....both are good engines. I have a b18c5 block sitting there to swap in when the b20 blows. It is not a question of IF but a question of WHEN will it finally let go. All b20's that are put on the road course are going to crack unlessed sleeved. Especially if you go over 84 mm!!!!! I have cracked 4 blocks and I know of another racer who has had many many many more than that crack on him.

So....there you have it from someone who has had both, as a daily driver, and raced them and tracked them.

chad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My b20vtec is making almost 190 hp and 136 tq after the last tuning session, I have since added a toda header vs a jdm itr copy. Probably didn't pick up much peak hp but the mid range gain is very noticable.

My b20 build is
b20b STOCK BOTTOMEND
block guard
pnp b16 head
itr cams
toda header
blox intake manifold
65 mm tbody

basically a 95% stock honda part build!

The car is a 1994 civic cx. Weighs in at 2450 with me in the car, full interior minus back seats (22 lbs) because I drive the car to and from the track and need the seats out for storage.

Daily driving it is awesome. Rev to 5k and shift. Redline is at 8300. I'll be popping the head off in the next week to check the walls out. I have about 500 track miles on it and the bottomend has probably 75000 miles on it and 11000 with the vtec head. And I beat it up, and my friends beat it up.

I was still making power at 8300. I'm probably gonna add some pistons at some point cause i could pick up an easy easy 20hp with the RS ITR copy pistons but I don't want to do a full rebuild right now.

I have had an ITR engine and with PowerFC and toda header, aem short ram and everything else 100% stock that combination netted me 192 whp and 124 tq. There is a difference driving them. The itr wants to be rev'd and was pretty quick. Side by side I think they would be close. Both eninge combinations had a 4.9 final drive itr/b16 tranny bolted up. I think if the b20vtec had a gsr tranny with lsd and a 4.9 or a 4.785 it would make the engine last longer.

Revs on the freeway are at 5000 at 78 mph. Vtec is set at 4900 so I have to drive under 78 mph so that I get better than 18 mpg!

It is a toss up....both are good engines. I have a b18c5 block sitting there to swap in when the b20 blows. It is not a question of IF but a question of WHEN will it finally let go. All b20's that are put on the road course are going to crack unlessed sleeved. Especially if you go over 84 mm!!!!! I have cracked 4 blocks and I know of another racer who has had many many many more than that crack on him.

So....there you have it from someone who has had both, as a daily driver, and raced them and tracked them.

chad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks chad, those are very valuable information.

Seems like b20vtec is only a way cheaper build with b18itr power top power?! But there is much higher risk of cracking.. Definitely, i don't want this to happen since I want this to be my last build.

I'm quite surprise that the b20 powerband can go up to 8300rpm too! (Great info for me)

I'm running on a CTR Tranny with 4.4 Final drive. Hope this help to keep the engine last longer too.

Would like to hear more comments from b20 user. And the estimate budget to build a b20 as well. Hopefully i can make up my mind start to build it at May.

 

If you are real concerned with reliability (as you seem to be) then I would highly recommended the b18c. If you want to got the extra displacement and TQ, sleeve the b18c block and bore it to 85. Use an LS/ B20 crank and build it that way. The b20 block can be reliable if you do it correctly, but then that means putting quite alot of money into what is designed to be a CHEAP build.

 

well said ^^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are real concerned with reliability (as you seem to be) then I would highly recommended the b18c. If you want to got the extra displacement and TQ, sleeve the b18c block and bore it to 85. Use an LS/ B20 crank and build it that way. The b20 block can be reliable if you do it correctly, but then that means putting quite alot of money into what is designed to be a CHEAP build. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, think I got what you mean and may be i should go for B18C then.

However, just wonder for my case to go b20, still need to invest lots of money to make the build alright?