ok so if anyone has ever had this happen PLEASE let me know what you did to fix it
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Ok so heres what ive done so far


ok so i installed an ingalls camber kit(front ball joints) in my 91 si hatch and.........

at first when i adjusted the camber out it was hittting the frame rails

so i notched the frame to get clearance for the new ***** joints being swung out and that went well

have about 1 inch clearance when my suspension is fully pressed up i checked by jacking up the car by the hub actually would lift the car off the jack stand before it would hit the frame now
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OK so here my Problem

when i have the kit adjusted to slightly negative camber everything works great but im chewing up tires like no other

BUT when i have it adjusted closer to 0 degrees +/-

when driving the wheel is very easy to turn and will actually turn it self 90 degrees in either direction almost at will

it doesnt seem to favor either side in its wanting to turn by itself either
just whichever way its pointed towards at the time

but wil wont turn the wheel more than 90 degrees either

also when im driving down the road with the camber at near 0 degrees +/- the tires will sqeel a little bit as if i was taking a corner a lil fast but not completely loosing traction

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So if anyone happens to know anything about this please please please let me know


~Jeff

 

the new skunk 2 upper front control arms look really good. ive had issues with just about every other product. wheter its clearance, wear.

 

also i would check your toe. sounds like it could be off by a lot.

 

you're scrubbing the **** out of your tires IMO. check your toe.

 

yes but why does it wanna turn both ways???

 

i don't want to thread steal, but how do you check/fix toe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kirbyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't want to thread steal, but how do you check/fix toe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get an alignment

 

If its toe'd out on both sides it will pull to either side depending on road conditions.

Just take it for an alignment.

 

you did the camber kit and no wheel alignment? sounds like the problem. there are ways to align your toe or just take it to a shop like these guys are saying

 

thats what i was wondering. whether there was a way to check it without going to an alignment shop.

 

hmm...i have no experience in aftermarket performance camber bolts and ball joints but i am guessing that you are going by the markings that they have on the ball joint. every car, every suspension change changes the alignment angle of caster, camber and toe.

you cant really go off the degree marking on the scale you are reading of off.

changing camber affects toe...get that **** aligned at a shop.

 

IMO you should return the camber kit and get an alignment. Camber well not really wear your tires that much. i have -3.0 camber upfront and -2.0 in the rear with toe set at 0 in the front and .08 in the rear. i don't notice any uneven tire wear. TOE is what wears down your tire. camber just gets blamed. Plus negative camber equals better handling.

 

yea your toe is messed up last crx i did that camber kit and it chewed a set of tires fast. get and alignment asap or do a string alignment in the garage and save your tires

 

ok so heres what im getting at i know my toe is off BUT......

why when i have negative camber would i get no squirrely handling

but when it out closer to 0 its really hard to drive

with the Toe never having been adjusted

btw i know i need to go get an alignment i have an apointment tomorrow

 

BECAUSE THE TOE CHANGES WHEN YOU CHANGE THE CAMBER FOR CHRISTS SAKES


plz read anything above what you posted to see this answer already stated at least twice.

The easiest way to check toe is to measure the difference between the front horizontal center point of the tire and the rear.

/ \ F
| | R

^^^TOE IN

\ / F
| | R

^^^ TOE OUT

easiest way to get it fixed? take it to an alignment shop.

/thread

 

be nice. and jdmef9 listen to the man and go for an alignment. however i wouldnt let the place adjust your camber unless its a shop familiar with lowered cars, race set-ups, and adjustable ball joints. any regular tech is going to mangle the **** out of the small bolts supporting the ball joints because thery're going to loosen it and try and move thing on the alignment machine with the weight of the car on these pieces. im sure if youve been messing with the camber u've figured by now to jack the car up and adjust the ball joints when they are free of weight.

 

I always laugh at these threads. Everyone see's wear on one edge of the tire and always immediately assumes that there camber is off (I can see why people jump to that conclusion if fairly new to cars). If you have ever had any true schooling on alignment (I went for vehicle suspension design, and alignment), You will learn that camber actually isn't even considered a tire wear contributor. I have run vehicles with as much as 15 degrees (Not a typo!, it was a slammed older VW beetle) for years with no variable in tire wear across the tread patch due to a proper toe adjustment. As it has been mentioned, your toe changes dramatically during your camber change, causing your toe issue. That is why (When done properly) the alignment tech working on your car will dial in camber/caster first, and then finally adjust toe. My advice would be to talk to people to find out what kind of alignment specs they are running on their lowered civics, and find a place that is willing to align to your suggested specs over factory specs. Your basic concerns are going to be that caster and camber are within at least 1/2 a degree side to side (Otherwise you will most likely develope a "Pull"), and that your front and rear toe is as close to the stock specs as possible.

 

i have a copy of factory specs if you want them. also, there are good ways to do a self-alignment and save some money. someone mentioned the string method, i use a laser level, some markers and a tape measure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zrickety &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a copy of factory specs if you want them. also, there are good ways to do a self-alignment and save some money. someone mentioned the string method, i use a laser level, some markers and a tape measure </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think the OP is ready for such procedures. As you learn to work on cars, you should work on projects that are on your experience level.

 

i didnt read all those posts but sounds like a caster issue. just go get an alignment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pandarex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didnt read all those posts but sounds like a caster issue. just go get an alignment</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont give advice if you are uneducated in the subject at hand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DailyDriverCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont give advice if you are uneducated in the subject at hand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

x 1000

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DailyDriverCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont give advice if you are uneducated in the subject at hand.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not like i told him to do something drastic or dumb to his car. i said go get an alignment. if that means im not educated on alignments than ok. my bad i didnt read hes getting an alignment already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF9SIRJeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes but why does it wanna turn both ways???
</TD></TR></TABLE>

caster's fu cked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF9SIRJeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i have the kit adjusted to slightly negative camber everything works great but im chewing up tires like no other

also when im driving down the road with the camber at near 0 degrees +/- the tires will sqeel a little bit as if i was taking a corner a lil fast but not completely loosing traction
</TD></TR></TABLE>

toe is fu cked


problem.. the ingals kit you describe it the one with an offset ball joint that spins to bring camber in and out... as it does this.. anywere adjusted between fully out or fully in will throw caster way out which could either cause steering snap back or a wobbly wheel that sends the car everywhere.

write more later