After a lot of searching I finally found a 1990 ef hatch with a b16 in it. Once I get it painted I will be selling my current car (2003 Evo) so that I can spend the money I will save by having no car payment on the hatchy. My plan is to make it track worthy for lapping days and HPDE events. The motor is obviously taken care of but that leaves wheels/tires, brakes, and suspension. I will tell you what I was originally planning on doing and let me know if you think it is a good plan, or if I should consider something else. Oh and keep in mind I am trying to stay on somewhat of a budget.

1 - WHEELS/TIRES - LS Mesh wheels with some RT-615s on them. It seems like a pretty good combo and won't break the bank either.

2 - BRAKES - Not really sure here. I know there are a TON of different options. For the rear I am thinking about just swapping in some DA discs. I know they might not be that much better than the drums, if at all, but I like the way discs look a hell of a lot better.

For the front I am not sure. I was thinking about getting a bigger rotor and doing the ITR disc upgrade. I think this would compliment the rear DA discs pretty well. What do you think?

I will also be doing stainless steel lines and probably the Hawk HP+ pads. I know these aren't a dedicated track pad, but they should be good enough for me.

3 - SUSPENSION - As far as shocks/springs/coilovers I am thinking about the Koni/GC setup with the tophats. However, I am not sure what spring rates to go with. 550f/450r?

Suspension techniques rear sway bar. I was originally going to get the front and rear bars, but it sounds like the front won't do me any good.


Well thanks for reading and I would appreciate your help on my little build.

 

maybe 4g civic sedan EX front knuckles/brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1 - WHEELS/TIRES - LS Mesh wheels with some RT-615s on them. It seems like a pretty good combo and won't break the bank either.

2 - BRAKES - Not really sure here. I know there are a TON of different options. For the rear I am thinking about just swapping in some DA discs. I know they might not be that much better than the drums, if at all, but I like the way discs look a hell of a lot better.

For the front I am not sure. I was thinking about getting a bigger rotor and doing the ITR disc upgrade. I think this would compliment the rear DA discs pretty well. What do you think?

I will also be doing stainless steel lines and probably the Hawk HP+ pads. I know these aren't a dedicated track pad, but they should be good enough for me.

3 - SUSPENSION - As far as shocks/springs/coilovers I am thinking about the Koni/GC setup with the tophats. However, I am not sure what spring rates to go with. 550f/450r?

Suspension techniques rear sway bar. I was originally going to get the front and rear bars, but it sounds like the front won't do me any good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

those wheels would be fine. or gsr hammers (as i know they will clear 11" brakes
front brakes-ex knuckles and the 11" set up. redrilled prelude vtec rotors, itr/acord v6/accord wagon calipers.
rear brakes-leave the drums.
ex master or the old prelude 15/16ths master

suspension-koni/gc is fine with the tophats. 550/450 is a good start. if its a street car still, that'll be more tolerable on the street. hf front bar and st rear bar

 

Lo Buck hit it right on the dot, as always

Here's my setup for reference:

-15x7 Falken Hanabi's with 205/50/15 RT-615's
-400f/600r GC Coilovers on Koni Yellows
-HF front, ST rear swaybars
-CRX Si brakes up front with Carbotech XP-10's, stock HF drums rear (it did fine, but I am upgrading to the Fastbrakes Wilwood setup, it's like $650 with rotors, pads, and calipers, all new, or you can do the EX knuckle way Lo Buck laid out)

I was very pleased with everything, but am now going more serious because I envision some H2 Honda Challenge soon. Still keeping the suspension the same for now though, it is super solid.

 

I would check Fastbrake's web site. I have the kit that uses VW Corrado rotors with brackets to mount GS-R calipers along with steel lines on my B16 powered CRX track(instructor)/DD. Also, make sure you use a good brake fluid. I use ATE Super Blue/Gold, but the Ford stuff is pretty good too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-400f/600r GC Coilovers on Koni Yellows
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you running the tophats? I always thought the front rates were higher than the rear. I guess you learn something new everyday.

I know that most people say the drums are fine, but I like the way discs look a lot better and the upgrade with DA stuff should only run me $200 so I will probably just go that route.

And thanks everyone for the input. This is exactly what I was looking for.





Modified by SlowB16 at 5:07 AM 4/3/2008

 

my thing is the rear disc isn't needed. but if u must, be sure to change the prop valve and use stock/shitty rear pads.

 

But aren't the drums a lot harder to work on that discs? I know how to work on discs but have no experience at all with drums.

 

not hard at all. Well, maybe the first time. Only take one side apart at a time and you should be good.

 

my drumbs on the old car i took apaprt for *****. but i realy bever had to at all.

 

Well maybe I will stick with the drums, at least for a while. I can spend that $200 elsewhere. Thanks for the input.

As for the KONI/GC setup I am thinking about doing this. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2028746 However, it says that the max spring rate is 500, which is a little lower than what I was going for. What do you think? $900 shipped for everything with tophats is the best I have found.

 

its a good start. u can always have them shortened and revalved later on down the line

 

So do you think I should go with a 450f/500r if 500 is the max? Alternatively I could just go with a higher spring rate like 500/600 or 450/550 and deal with the shocks going out sooner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So do you think I should go with a 450f/500r if 500 is the max? Alternatively I could just go with a higher spring rate like 500/600 or 450/550 and deal with the shocks going out sooner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd do 400f/550r if you're afraid of the shocks going out soon. Koni will tell you anywhere between 500-600 (500 is probably with a safety factor) is the max spring rate for the yellows, I heard more people saying 600, so that's what I went with.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But aren't the drums a lot harder to work on that discs? I know how to work on discs but have no experience at all with drums.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but it's not a big deal, it is quite easy to figure out how everything goes together. I always leave one side complete so I can reference it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running the tophats? I always thought the front rates were higher than the rear. I guess you learn something new everyday. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I am not running the GC top hats, maybe I should be. For these cars with highly front biased weight distribution, they understeer because the front has all the weight on it. You need the rotation induced from the high rear spring rates compared to the front. You're trying to get the rear to take on more of the weight of the car to balance things out, so you give it a higher spring rate.

 

you should be running the gc extended top hats. extra travel is always good.
as for rates, the crx is shorter than the hatch by 7 or 8 inches. so its mote twitchy. but 600 in the rear should work for you. it depends on tire and rear camber. my car on 650/500 and 205s with not much rear camber rotated well. added rear camber and 225 and the rotation went bye bye. so i had to drive differantly to make it rotate again.

 

[QUOTE=GI8U2racing]I am not running the GC top hats, maybe I should be. For these cars with highly front biased weight distribution, they understeer because the front has all the weight on it. You need the rotation induced from the high rear spring rates compared to the front. You're trying to get the rear to take on more of the weight of the car to balance things out, so you give it a higher spring rate.QUOTE]

Oh ok I get it now. That makes sense.

 

Im a semi novice when it comes to correct brake setup. Why wouldnt you want hp+'s in the rear if your running them in the front.

Lo-buck EF you seem to know your **** CAn you give me any advice on my setup? (sorry to hyjack)

Light street mod 89 si hatch

stoppers:

99 si front rotors, calipers on ex knuckles
99 si calipers, rotors on 1991 crx si rear trailing arms.
91 si perportioning valve
oem pads (99 si donor only had 20k on it)
valvoline dot 4 fluid
nuspeed stainless lines
91 crx si master cyllinder (I think i need a new one any advice on which one. I seem to drift when stopped at lights.)
Stock booster

susp:
suspension tech. 22mm rear swaybar
Si front sway bar
front & rear strut bar's
front lower tie bar
rear lower tie bar
ground control coilovers 400lb front 500 rear
koni yellow OTC's shocks
Ground control top hats front and rear
ex knuckles
energy suspension bushing kit
Mugen rear trailing arm bushings

Specs:

Front Camber 3 deg
Front toe 1/4 out total
Rear Camber 2.9 deg
Rear Toe 1/16 in - 18 out total