lowering the car but keeping stock springs, any ideas?
This is an unconventional request, since its not related to making the car handle or slamming it for show.
I want to lower my 2000 civic by 1" (or even .75" will do) in order to increase fuel efficiency at highway speeds. I've done a few other (free or cheap) fuel efficiency mods already and found out that lowering is a proven way to boost fuel efficiency.
However, its a commuter car, not a race car, and I want it to ride as much like stock as possible.
Now most folks would say go with brand x lowering springs, but I know that those are stiffer than stock, and they are made to lower by more than 1", and such springs would destroy my OEM shocks within a few months.
So with lowering springs ruled out, I'm wondering about shocks with different spring perch points, or even modifying oem shock spring perches somehow.
Any ideas or experience are appreciated, but please dont bother flaming me for not trying to make my automatic civic a racer or show car. I am trying to reach a goal of over 40mpg without the expense of swapping the tranny etc.
I want to lower my 2000 civic by 1" (or even .75" will do) in order to increase fuel efficiency at highway speeds. I've done a few other (free or cheap) fuel efficiency mods already and found out that lowering is a proven way to boost fuel efficiency.
However, its a commuter car, not a race car, and I want it to ride as much like stock as possible.
Now most folks would say go with brand x lowering springs, but I know that those are stiffer than stock, and they are made to lower by more than 1", and such springs would destroy my OEM shocks within a few months.
So with lowering springs ruled out, I'm wondering about shocks with different spring perch points, or even modifying oem shock spring perches somehow.
Any ideas or experience are appreciated, but please dont bother flaming me for not trying to make my automatic civic a racer or show car. I am trying to reach a goal of over 40mpg without the expense of swapping the tranny etc.
the only way i believe that this will work is you can drop the strut into the fork deeper but that can only be done on the front.
OR
somehow modify some extended top hats and it will move your whole shock body up by an inch or so.
OR
somehow modify some extended top hats and it will move your whole shock body up by an inch or so.
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the only way i believe that this will work is you can drop the strut into the fork deeper but that can only be done on the front.
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I did this to add shock travel on my CRX. I think the perch is welded onto the shock body on OEM. I like free ideas, though! Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H&R sells an 'OE' spring that lowers the car .75 - 1". That should be fine with stock shocks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, I didnt know about those. Do you think the decreased travel will shorten shock life?
the only way i believe that this will work is you can drop the strut into the fork deeper but that can only be done on the front.
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I did this to add shock travel on my CRX. I think the perch is welded onto the shock body on OEM. I like free ideas, though! Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H&R sells an 'OE' spring that lowers the car .75 - 1". That should be fine with stock shocks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, I didnt know about those. Do you think the decreased travel will shorten shock life?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thank you, I didnt know about those. Do you think the decreased travel will shorten shock life?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could easily, and totally, compensate for the 1" with extended "top hats".
I'm about to do this on my '93 to try to squeeze a few more MPG.
Thank you, I didnt know about those. Do you think the decreased travel will shorten shock life?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could easily, and totally, compensate for the 1" with extended "top hats".
I'm about to do this on my '93 to try to squeeze a few more MPG.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Meoshe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Koni yellows have a lower perch setting you can use. I think it's one inch from stock. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, Ive been really happy with the Yellows on the CRX. I might just put them on the civic...though I'm hoping to find a cheaper shock that can do the same trick with snap-rings.
The DIY upper mounts might be the other best solution... between those and angle-iron bookshelves, I've got a pretty good excuse to buy a welding rig.
Yep, Ive been really happy with the Yellows on the CRX. I might just put them on the civic...though I'm hoping to find a cheaper shock that can do the same trick with snap-rings.
The DIY upper mounts might be the other best solution... between those and angle-iron bookshelves, I've got a pretty good excuse to buy a welding rig.
lowering your car, even if you don't change the springs..
will change the ride behavior.
the cheapest option is lowering springs... buy a used/new set of eibach pro-kits or H&R OE Sport or tien H-Techs
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if you are willing to spend more...
a new set of dampers will also do the same thing... but they need to be dampers with adjustable spring perches..
The only one i know of with adjustable spring perches is the Koni Sport (Yellow) dampers. about 450ish new shipped from ppl here on ht
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I don't think the DIY upper mount will do anything to your ride height.
Because the shock tower hole diameter is only big enough to fit the shock, not the spring.
The DIY upper mount was something a member came up with in response to increasing damper piston travel - just like the GC ones that only work with koni dampers.
it was not made to lower the car >___>
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other ways to increase your FE, is to make a under body diffuser plate(s) and put a wheel skirt on your rear wheels...
also light weight wheels, and getting rid of the spare... carry a can of fix a flat...
and other weight saving things... like getting rid of your back seat, etc..
Modified by bpr0422 at 9:05 PM 4/1/2008
will change the ride behavior.
the cheapest option is lowering springs... buy a used/new set of eibach pro-kits or H&R OE Sport or tien H-Techs
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if you are willing to spend more...
a new set of dampers will also do the same thing... but they need to be dampers with adjustable spring perches..
The only one i know of with adjustable spring perches is the Koni Sport (Yellow) dampers. about 450ish new shipped from ppl here on ht
====================EDIT==================
I don't think the DIY upper mount will do anything to your ride height.
Because the shock tower hole diameter is only big enough to fit the shock, not the spring.
The DIY upper mount was something a member came up with in response to increasing damper piston travel - just like the GC ones that only work with koni dampers.
it was not made to lower the car >___>
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other ways to increase your FE, is to make a under body diffuser plate(s) and put a wheel skirt on your rear wheels...
also light weight wheels, and getting rid of the spare... carry a can of fix a flat...
and other weight saving things... like getting rid of your back seat, etc..
Modified by bpr0422 at 9:05 PM 4/1/2008
just go get you som GC coils they drop from like .5 to 4.0 inches there only about $80 more than some neuspeed springs
here's another idea... see if you can find yourself some drop spindles... i have no idea if theyre even available for a civic, but it was relatively easy to install on my friends S10. if you can get ahold of some of those, itd be pretty sweet, not to mention it wouldnt have any effects on your alignment which can also decrease your mpg's.
Dish out $160 or less for Tein S-techs. They lower your car only enough to reduce the fender wheel gap but also leave you enough room to prevent scraping on speed bumps. I believe its like 1.3" and 1.7" drop? Its barely anything. Rides smooth like stock, but is a bit stiffer and feels a lot better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1990 crx dx b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dish out $160 or less for Tein S-techs. They lower your car only enough to reduce the fender wheel gap but also leave you enough room to prevent scraping on speed bumps. I believe its like 1.3" and 1.7" drop? Its barely anything. Rides smooth like stock, but is a bit stiffer and feels a lot better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
S-Techs are too low, and the higher rate is not compatible with OEM shocks for very long.
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go rice and chop em </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... I could go insane and torch'em too.
S-Techs are too low, and the higher rate is not compatible with OEM shocks for very long.
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go rice and chop em </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL... I could go insane and torch'em too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
S-Techs are too low, and the higher rate is not compatible with OEM shocks for very long.
LOL... I could go insane and torch'em too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
S-Techs too low? lol. wow. I know ebay has other makes that only lower .7".
S-Techs are too low, and the higher rate is not compatible with OEM shocks for very long.
LOL... I could go insane and torch'em too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
S-Techs too low? lol. wow. I know ebay has other makes that only lower .7".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thank you, I didnt know about those. Do you think the decreased travel will shorten shock life?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Barely. 1" wont do much and should have been figured into the original shock choice for load ratings etc. Youll have a tiny bit firmer ride and handling.
Also im sure you know this but keeping your tires overinflated a little helps a ton on mileage and it also improves performance, but doest stiffen the ride a small amount. But nothing crazy. Narrower tires also can help but that detracts from handling and braking and IMO wouldnt be worth the small gas savings.
Thank you, I didnt know about those. Do you think the decreased travel will shorten shock life?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Barely. 1" wont do much and should have been figured into the original shock choice for load ratings etc. Youll have a tiny bit firmer ride and handling.
Also im sure you know this but keeping your tires overinflated a little helps a ton on mileage and it also improves performance, but doest stiffen the ride a small amount. But nothing crazy. Narrower tires also can help but that detracts from handling and braking and IMO wouldnt be worth the small gas savings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alphalanos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Barely. 1" wont do much and should have been figured into the original shock choice for load ratings etc. Youll have a tiny bit firmer ride and handling.
Also im sure you know this but keeping your tires overinflated a little helps a ton on mileage and it also improves performance, but doest stiffen the ride a small amount. But nothing crazy. Narrower tires also can help but that detracts from handling and braking and IMO wouldnt be worth the small gas savings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
H&R OEs are looking like the best fit for what I am looking for.
Barely. 1" wont do much and should have been figured into the original shock choice for load ratings etc. Youll have a tiny bit firmer ride and handling.
Also im sure you know this but keeping your tires overinflated a little helps a ton on mileage and it also improves performance, but doest stiffen the ride a small amount. But nothing crazy. Narrower tires also can help but that detracts from handling and braking and IMO wouldnt be worth the small gas savings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
H&R OEs are looking like the best fit for what I am looking for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
====================EDIT==================
I don't think the DIY upper mount will do anything to your ride height.
Because the shock tower hole diameter is only big enough to fit the shock, not the spring.
The DIY upper mount was something a member came up with in response to increasing damper piston travel - just like the GC ones that only work with koni dampers.
it was not made to lower the car >___>
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You're confused bro - none of us ever said it was to lower the car. We said that after he lowers the car, he can get or make extended "top hats" to regain whatever strut-piston movement he will lose with the drop. Especially if he only goes with a 1" drop, it will be a perfect scenario to use the extended upper mounts.
====================EDIT==================
I don't think the DIY upper mount will do anything to your ride height.
Because the shock tower hole diameter is only big enough to fit the shock, not the spring.
The DIY upper mount was something a member came up with in response to increasing damper piston travel - just like the GC ones that only work with koni dampers.
it was not made to lower the car >___>
=========================================
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're confused bro - none of us ever said it was to lower the car. We said that after he lowers the car, he can get or make extended "top hats" to regain whatever strut-piston movement he will lose with the drop. Especially if he only goes with a 1" drop, it will be a perfect scenario to use the extended upper mounts.
My fellow Bastropian LOL. Yes, I read what you wrote, but I wouldn't risk too much safety for fuel economy. Modifying a suspension like that couldn't have a good turnout. Personally, I'd look for a used Eibach Pro-kit or those S-techs. They're cheap and comfy. They give a minimal drop. For my 89 hatch DD, I got a set of GR2 KYBs (OE replacements) and I'm saving for S-Techs. Shocks should be fine bacause I don't drive it like a bat out of hell.... that's what my 99 is for
I daily drive my EK and thrash the hell out of my CRX on weekends.
I've got to assemble and install a D16A6 in April-May, so I'll probably wait till after that to lower the civic and get an alignment.
I've got to assemble and install a D16A6 in April-May, so I'll probably wait till after that to lower the civic and get an alignment.


