I finally removed the crankshaft bolt today with lots of manual labor and a few broken tools. But I may have another problem in that, the pulley has some damage from the chain wrench I used to remove the crankshaft bolt. Here's a picture. I plan to smooth these out and use it. Is this okay? Thanks

 

what did you use to get that bolt off??? ive broken to much **** trying to do it..
Chris

 

all you have to do it hold the motor and put an impact on it, it takes a little time for it to loosen up but it works.

 

ive tryed that..what kind of compressor did you use cuz i guess mine just wasnt strong enough
Chris

 

I use an impact every time. About the only other thing is a breaker bar and the honda crank pulley tool they use at the dealership that is a huge hexwrench that goes inside the pulley.

 

well i dont have a hex shape on the inside of my pully..ive tryed a lot of crap..i broke extensions and sockets...my air compressor is probably not big enough
Chris

 

That pulley is fine to re-use as long as its not missing huge chunks and is still straight. I've seen them bend or fracture from being removed improperly. Here in the rust belt states we never have good luck getting them off. Usually we use an impact gun but more often then not we have to revert to using the crank pulley removal tool that the specific crank pulley requires.

 

i've always used a long ratchet and pipe, or a long breaker bar. i hold one of the flywheel teeth with a prybar and maybe a helping hand if i've got it. pops right loose.

don't forget to clean it, lube it and torque it to spec when you're done!!!

i would 'smooth' out those chunks and reuse it. put the belt on and watch it run, it should be fine. don't know if you're running a/c, but you could get a new racing pulley for about $50. i've got an N1 pulley on, and a spare

 

next time go to pep boys they sell a Honda/Acura crank pulley remover tool its costs 40 bucks but its worth the cash to have it in ur tool box but as far as this pulley is concerned id look at the junk yard for a replacement that one will cause excessive belt wear and eventually break leavin u high and dry on the side of the road callin AAA

good luck

 

I use a chain wrench to get mine loose too, but I've never seen that much damage. If the dents dont protrude into the rib slots, then it will be fine.

 

I'd file down any burrs sticking out into the grooves and not worry about the rest.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by primetimeracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did you use to get that bolt off??? ive broken to much **** trying to do it..
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

I jacked up the front of the car high enough where I can use a socket n breaker bar...using my right leg to push it downward while bracing my back up against a wall.

Anywho, now that the hard manual labor stuff is done, I have a few more questions, being a rookie n all...

1) When I put back the crankshaft bolt, what's the best way to do that, manually?

2) I don't have a torque wrench so which one should I get to make sure everything (crankshaft bolt, water pump bolts, engine mounts, etc.) is torqued correctly.

3) Should I use a new valve cover gasket even though the old gasket is still good?

4) Speaking of gasket, how should I apply the sealer for the
a) valve cover and top of engine block?
b) water pump

5) I drained the radiator but did not remove the drain bolt from the engine block. When I removed the water pump, coolant came out and some got on the crankshaft and the timing belt adjusting bolt. Is this okay? Should I clean it before installing the timing belt and the timing belt cover?

Sorry to sound so rookie-ish, but I have never done anything like this before. Checking the oil was about it for me, but I'm glad and proud of myself for doing this job....with all your help.

I will post some pics with more questions later. Thanks, guys n gals

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by braass91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I jacked up the front of the car high enough where I can use a socket n breaker bar...using my right leg to push it downward while bracing my back up against a wall.

Anywho, now that the hard manual labor stuff is done, I have a few more questions, being a rookie n all...

1) When I put back the crankshaft bolt, what's the best way to do that, manually?

2) I don't have a torque wrench so which one should I get to make sure everything (crankshaft bolt, water pump bolts, engine mounts, etc.) is torqued correctly.

3) Should I use a new valve cover gasket even though the old gasket is still good?

4) Speaking of gasket, how should I apply the sealer for the
a) valve cover and top of engine block?
b) water pump

5) I drained the radiator but did not remove the drain bolt from the engine block. When I removed the water pump, coolant came out and some got on the crankshaft and the timing belt adjusting bolt. Is this okay? Should I clean it before installing the timing belt and the timing belt cover?

Sorry to sound so rookie-ish, but I have never done anything like this before. Checking the oil was about it for me, but I'm glad and proud of myself for doing this job....with all your help.

I will post some pics with more questions later. Thanks, guys n gals</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the crank pulley bolt, I just use my 2 ft breaker bar and bounce my weight on it a couple times to make sure it's good and tight. Been doing it for 6 years and never had a problem. I weighed between 175-210(which is my current weight).

For the water pump bolts, just tighten until the bolts dont turn anymore. Much more torque than that and they will snap. Same theory as the valve cover nuts. too tight and they snap off.

No honda bond on the water pump or head gasket(if that was what you were asking). You can use honda bond on the valve cover, but don't use much. Just a thin layer. Best thing to do is just make sure you install it properly. I don't use HB on mine and it doesn't leak. IF it leaks, then use some. Sometimes the grommets for the spark plug cylinders leak, so you will use HB if they do.

water on the timing belt etc. is fine. It's not going to hurt anything. IF you feel really paranoid about it, take some tap water and wash it off, but there's no real need unless you just want the green color off.

 

price may have changed, but i got a new torque wrench for $20 at autozone. check ebay or harbor freight too.
if you're going to work on your car it's priceless to own.
there is a chance it will loosen or break if you do it any other way, especially if you ever need to take it off again.