Paint and Body Auto Body Repair, Painting and Prep

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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 09:15 PM
  #1  
thw_goalie's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default Painting

So I'm going to be sanding my car down and repainting it this summer as a little project. Mostly because the previous owner did it himself and left fish eyes EVERYWHERE.

I'm just beginning to slowly order the things I need.

Here's what I have so far:
Durablock Sanding Blocks
Mini air gun
Filler mixing board
Evercoat cream & liquid hardener
Rage Xtreme body filler
Nitrile gloves
Razor Blades
Painters head socks
Respirator
Painters coveralls
Dessicant snake & in-line air filter
Two HVLP guns

I also have a compressor and air hose, etc.

Now I don't have any sandpaper/paint listed yet. What grit(s) should I use to sand the car down? I need to sand it completely down to remove all of the fish eyes, so it will probably be the clearcoat and a bit of the base coat.

What sandpaper do I need? And what else should I pick up? Should I get a third gun, or is two good?

Any help is appreciated. Or if you know of some good links let me know! I've read around the forum, but just wanted some specific input.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 09:49 PM
  #2  
iam7head's Avatar
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From: SoCal
Default Re: Painting (thw_goalie)

post a picture, sometime you don't need to sand it all the way down to fix it, sometime it's better to redo than try to save a failing job.

sandpaper grit will depends on the damage level you try to fix. get a DA sander if you need to bring it down to metal.

2 guns are better than 3 middle price one, you can spend up to a grand easy on a good gun. most of the people including myself runs a primer and bc/cc gun, i have two primer gun and one cc/bc gun
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:28 AM
  #3  
thw_goalie's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default

I do think I need to redo the exterior as most of it is just completely fish eyed. The clear is also peeling a bit on the trunk.

What's the best way to remove the paint? Just with a DA?

I'm just not sure what sandpaper I need, how much sandpaper I need, and if I'm missing anything off my list.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #4  
accent0002's Avatar
 
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From: port angeles, wa, usa
Default Re: (thw_goalie)

you want to use a block when you sand it not a DA and you might start with 320 or somethiing like that and go up
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 02:38 PM
  #5  
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Default Re: Painting (thw_goalie)

when i repaint a failed paint job or just old paint, i usually sand with 80 to get it down to the basecoat and then 160, 320, 500, and maybe 600. then that will bring up hidden dings and dents. then repair the dents and spray primer, sealer, bc/cc and ur set!
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #6  
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default

Thanks for the help!

I've heard wet sanding makes sand paper last longer. Can this be done when sanding the car down with 80-->160-->320, etc? Or is it only done between top coats?

If anyone knows of anything I need to add to the list, or any more tips, that'd be great.
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 10:56 PM
  #7  
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From: IL, USA
Default

wetsanding is only for 600 grit plus. anything coarser you don't need it, just have a blow gun handy to blow the primer/filler off it. You don't need a filler mixing board if you have a good supply of cardboard, works just as good and is free. you will definately need a DA for feathering and sand prepping for filler.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 11:57 AM
  #8  
gsr dood's Avatar
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From: NASSUA, LI, NY, U.S.A.
Default Re: (Pockets)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wetsanding is only for 600 grit plus. anything coarser you don't need it, just have a blow gun handy to blow the primer/filler off it. You don't need a filler mixing board if you have a good supply of cardboard, works just as good and is free. you will definately need a DA for feathering and sand prepping for filler.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Not true. I use 220 320 and 400 Wet, much easier to sand and comes out alot smoother and even
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