Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Oil change...hot or cold?

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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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B16b-EJ8's Avatar
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Default Oil change...hot or cold?

I read somewhere over the weekend that an oil change should be done after the engine has been warned up to operating temps...is this true? Or does it even make a difference? I have done it both ways but prefer to do it while the engine is cool as to avoid hot oil running down my arm. Any thoughts
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:37 PM
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Default Re: Oil change...hot or cold? (B16b-EJ8)

I always wait for it too cool down before I do an oil change. The oil is extemely hot if the vehicle has been running for quite some time.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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Default Re: Oil change...hot or cold? (B16b-EJ8)

to me that makes no sense at all why it would matter oils oil. its made to heat up and cool down. if anything i would think that you wouldn't want to put room temperature oil in an engine that is almost 200 degrees.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:42 PM
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Default Re: Oil change...hot or cold? (CivicSH)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to me that makes no sense at all why it would matter oils oil. its made to heat up and cool down. if anything i would think that you wouldn't want to put room temperature oil in an engine that is almost 200 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point! like i said i read it somewhere and just wanted to know if there was any valididty to it. Thanks
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:45 PM
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Most at home guys do it cold. I sometimes run a engine cleaner which requires you to run the engine for 5 minutes. Then change the oil.

It really doesn't matter.

I use Mobil 5-30 oil in my DD, a 05 Subaru Legacy GT, in case you don't know, it's turbo charged. 87.000 mile and no oil issues. I use what ever oil is on sale at Walmart. All oil meets a standard. IMO there's not much difference. I've been doing my own oil changes since I was 16 back in 1970.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 01:59 PM
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Default Re: (1992Si)

The whole point is to do it when it's warm because the oil will drain out faster because it is less "thick" or viscous.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Default Re: (ekhatchling)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekhatchling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The whole point is to do it when it's warm because the oil will drain out faster because it is less "thick" or viscous.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't it say to warm up the car for about 5 mins or so in the manual?
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 02:38 PM
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do it warm, easier on the engine when you start it back up.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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Default Re: (EL Vap133)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Doesn't it say to warm up the car for about 5 mins or so in the manual? </TD></TR></TABLE>

As a matter in fact on page 103 in my owners manual from 1992 it reads "1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut it off".
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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some of the biggest mistakes ive made were letting the engine drain for hours.

You want to warm it up, drain/change filter and fill back up and start it when you tighten everything.

however i dont really see a difference between letting it cool down and then draining, then starting it up cold - VS- Normal non use and then starting up in the morning before work.

the same amount of oil will drain back down into the pan.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 02:49 PM
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I think the idea is that if you drain it hot more of the solids will still be floating in the oil. As they cool they may settle into the low spots in the pan.

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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 03:28 PM
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Default Re: (1992Si)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the idea is that if you drain it hot more of the solids will still be floating in the oil. As they cool they may settle into the low spots in the pan.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a good point. Makes sence to me.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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Default Re: (Malakai)

Also if you dont have/use oil filter wrenches when the car is warm its alot easier to take off by hand.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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also very true! When it is cold, those can be a bitch to get off by hand.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 03:50 PM
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Default Re: (Malakai)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the idea is that if you drain it hot more of the solids will still be floating in the oil. As they cool they may settle into the low spots in the pan.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another good point. Thanks for all the info...i guess i will let it run for a few then do the change...warm oil running down my arm it is...i Just cant seem to keep it from happening when removing the oil filter
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Default Re: (B16b-EJ8)

Do i hear an oil relocater kit in your future
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 06:00 PM
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Default Re: (Luserkid)

you need to unscrew the filter very slowly and turn it just enough for the oil to run down and into the pan and as it gets less unscrew it a little more, etc... you def. want to drain the oil while it is at least warm a lot more gunk is suspended in the oil and it will drain faster and easier than when the oil is cold. If the oil is drained while it is cold it very well could be stuck in places where if it was warm would flow out of there and cold oil won't drip off the crank and insides of the motor near as easily. I can't immagine anyone changing their oil while it isn't at least warm. If your worried about it being too hot then let it cool down some but not all the way, also if your so worried about hot oil running down your arm you can get those gloves you use for dishwashing they will protect you to the elbows.
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