I've got a 2000 Si, and I want to rebuild it with stronger and better parts. What i'm really going after is a daily driver thats running at about 15psi. So i'll need something to handle that power. But I have NO idea where to start at. Oh, and BTW this is my FIRST post here, so "Hi!" to everyone.

 

start with rebuild/upgrade internal engine parts and even if u dont turbo it in the future, it will still be reliable. and it depends on how much u want to spend. the parts alone for my b16a internal upgrade costs me about $2000 and i did the labor myself. just give u some ideas

 

My buddy had a turbo b16 hatch and the only things he did was new pistons rods and bigger injectors and got it tuned i'm not 100% sure whether he sleeved the motor or not though and he put down 296whp.

 

Try searching in Forced Induction. Lots of stuff to find. Try these, see if it helps.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2232297

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2158269

 

I was just wondering where I should start with the internals running at that psi. And what manufactors are good? Like is Skunk2's parts worthy, or is AEM? And who makes good turbos? I heard Garrett does. I just need help I guess.

 

start by finding a shop to build the motor for you; either that or start by doing a lot of research before you buy a single part as to what works well together so you don't waste your money and end blowing your motor.

 

Most parts companies sell rods, pistons, pins, and rings as a set, so call Nopi or a similar dealer for questions. I would put ACL bearings in it if you're going that far with the build. I would think about putting better exhaust valves in the engine since you're turboing it and the factory ones were never designed to handle the heat from a turbo. Your stock crank wil be fine for what you're doing. Skunk 2 makes killer cams(among other parts) for Hondas so thats a definite yes. Other than that, the turbo kit will pretty much be the area that you have to give the most thought to. It's not easy or cheap, but when you're finally done, you'll be glad you did the homework you did. And get it tuned before you even drive it

 

where you located, so people in that area can refer you to a engine shop

 

I'm here in Marion Ohio. And I got a quote from Skunk2 a while back for some parts. It was an intake manifold, throttle body, camshatfs, and cam gears. $1250.00 Thats insane.

 

if you figure out what parts you need, check the link in my sig, its my store, ill hook you up.

 

im actually going through the rebuilding process on my engine right now. b18c with a b16a head. costing me about.... close to 3.5g and i need 1 more. lol

 

When people ask me about where to start.I always say what whp are you going for?I did my build around 600whp

 

See, I couldn't even answer that question because I don't know what the B16 can handle. I'm not sure whats a safe horsepower for it. Esp. being a daily driver and all.

 

pull the motor, get some eagle rods and some forged pistons. get the rest of the motor refreshed(bearings, seals, oil/water pump, etc...) get a set of aftermarket springs and retainers for the head, a good set of cams, even gsr or itr will work. then get a turbo kit, and GET IT TUNED! you will be in the 350whp range with a decent turbo kit. and be reliable, and very fun to drive.

 

After giving it some thought, I was thinking about going for more around 400-450whp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanteUrban &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After giving it some thought, I was thinking about going for more around 400-450whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need to read... then go read, research, read some more, and research some more again...then decide what you want to do. 400+whp will not be an simple task on a b16 for someone who is saying they have no idea what to do when turbo'ing or building an engine. Plus, for something that is strictly a daily driver that kinda power is almost overkill imo.

I would suggest starting small, learning a bit, then deciding where to go from there. You could just keep it simple and turbo the car as it is with a basic turbo kit, run 6-8psi and be fine. The car will feel totally different and a whole lot faster then it is now guarantee'd.

Justin

 

I guess I should say that this isn't my main car. This is my project car. I just want to be able to use it as a daily driver if I want. Thats why I don't want to go with just a normal turbo kit running at a low psi. I actually want to make this car worthy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanteUrban &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I should say that this isn't my main car. This is my project car. I just want to be able to use it as a daily driver if I want. Thats why I don't want to go with just a normal turbo kit running at a low psi. I actually want to make this car worthy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh, well if that is the case, you still have a lot of researching and learning to do first :D Basically, it will boil down to how much money you have to spend. Replacing/upgrading the rotating assembly and valve train can cost a lot of cash for quality parts. Plus the labor to get it assembled and built correctly.

You'll at least want forged rods and pistons, you can probably get away with a stock head and still make real good power. Put that together with a good turbo kit and fuel management and you'll be on your way to making nice power with a good tune. Again it all depends on how much money you want to spend, or can afford to spend..

Justin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanteUrban &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thats why I don't want to go with just a normal turbo kit running at a low psi. I actually want to make this car worthy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

PSI has little to do with it. Increasing boost(without changing turbos) makes heat, and you want as little heating of the intake air charge as possible. I saw an article about a guy that has a B16 swap in a Del Sol with a turbo, and he was running "low"(dont remember the exact figure, less than 10) PSI, cranking out 240 whp, and walks all over C5 Corvettes. Air in and air out is what you really want. Find out how much HP you want/need, figure out what turbo will support that HP level at the lowest pressure ratio, and figure out how to interpret compressor maps. That would help greatly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanteUrban &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After giving it some thought, I was thinking about going for more around 400-450whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't know if you've ever ridden in a small light car like a civic with that much horsepower but pushing that much horsepower on a street DD is a hell of a lot

If your making only 300 whp you should walk on almost everything on the street anyways

like King V said

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

PSI has little to do with it. Increasing boost(without changing turbos) makes heat, and you want as little heating of the intake air charge as possible. I saw an article about a guy that has a B16 swap in a Del Sol with a turbo, and he was running "low"(dont remember the exact figure, less than 10) PSI, cranking out 240 whp, and walks all over C5 Corvettes. Air in and air out is what you really want. Find out how much HP you want/need, figure out what turbo will support that HP level at the lowest pressure ratio, and figure out how to interpret compressor maps. That would help greatly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do some research...do a TON of research, get familiar with teh search function and you'll learn a lot quickly, have fun too

 

So maybe shoot around 300-400whp? Beacuse I want it to be fast.

 

I'd think that is a good goal. First off you're going to have to piece together a turbo kit. You'll need a turbo, manifold, wastegate, blow off valve, downpipe, intercooler and piping. Bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump, oil feed and return lines . Gauges to moniter your engine. There's more just use the search function lol. If you want to put down any real reliable horsepower you're going to want to run a chipped OBD1 ECU that's been edited with crome, hondata, ECtune...etc... After that your also going to want to get forged internals, eagle has a great reputation for rods. Word on the street says CP makes some good pistons. Your also going to need to find a tuner to tune your car.
On top of that this is all gonna cost money, like thousands of dollars. Expect to spend a lot.


EDIT: grammar

 

Thanks for that. I do know that it will cost a lot. I expect to spend a minimum of around $5,000. Would it be better to just buy the turbo sepreat and then just buy the pipeing? That way I don't just get a turbo that comes with a kit. Or is there somewhere you can order a turbo and get a kit to come along with it? But on top of those things I was thinking about getting a Skunk2 68-70mm throttle body and new Skunk2 intake manifold. Would those parts help with the turbo or could the engine even handle all of that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanteUrban &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> is there somewhere you can order a turbo and get a kit to come along with it? Would those parts help with the turbo or could the engine even handle all of that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you sink enough money into the powertrain(yes, you will need a new clutch and axles), it'll handle whatever you throw at it .
And some companies do sell "upgradeable" turbo assemblies. Who and for how much I don't know. Honestly your best bet is to research research research(spend as much time researching as you are money), and move this discussion to Forced Induction(if you haven't already). Those guys can help with more specific details. And as far as HP level you really don't want to go nutso unless you like buying your "kid" new shoes every 2 months. Shoot for a nice broad, flat power curve with a lot of overall area, not some peaky high strung boost monster(unless that's what you really want...) Good ruck!

 

Research... Thats why I came to this site. And thats why i've been asking so many questions. And I don't plan on buying any parts anytime soon. I'm going to hold off till I can afford them and then buy them all at once and put them on all at once.