I've been thinking - with little sleep...

That if we did a stealth install...and killed the fuel, and starter...

Technically you could just remove the steering lock and key all together.

I mean those things are "easy" to break, and the thief just ends up creating lots of interior damage... they broke my steering column attempting to steal my car...ended costing more in repairs, than just replacing the broken plastic....

All it would really need, is a switch for accessory, ignition, and a push-to start button.

it would be a bunch of wires, all taped to oem wires... and hidden properly..

you could even get creative with the wiring, like the brake or clutch must be depressed before flipping the accessory switch, and other creative solutions

and if the alarm isn't disarmed, they can't start the damn thing anyway..

You loose the steering lock, but i've seen people on H-T use big master locks and put in the U-joint of the column

the thief would go in, expecting a key lock, and find none....

although it does take them some time to break that thing... but if you use the big master lock... they wouldn't be able to steer it anyway, right?

Just wondering if anyone has tried it for their street cars? or if its just too ridiculous?

 

Having you're wheel turned makes it allot harder to tow from the rear if they can't get it from the front. I think of the lock as another layer, I don't see any gains from removing it IMO. However using column ignition wires as dummies is a good idea. Then you run the real wires (from behind the fuse box) to a more discreet switch and push start button.

A larger lock on the U joints seems like a good idea but too much trouble for my likings.

 

Your start kills are downstream of the key cylinder. If you bypass the key switch and put power to the igntion and starter wire directly, it wont be a complete circuit because the kill relay is between that point and the starter and ignition.

The fuel circuit is completely separate from the key switch. If you have a fuel kill switch and no start kill relay, then in your scenario they will be able to get your car to crank and turn over briefly, but it will stall w/out fuel.

I don't understand how you think that acc1, acc2, ignition switches and a push button start are more secure than a key cylinder. A key cylinder isn't very good security, but any crackhead can flip switches and push a button.

If the stealth install could be bypassed by punching the ignition, I don't think suspendedHatch would get any kind of respect for his efforts.

 

The point is, that you have a stealth install - first.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baller status &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your start kills are downstream of the key cylinder. If you bypass the key switch and put power to the igntion and starter wire directly, it wont be a complete circuit because the kill relay is between that point and the starter and ignition.

The fuel circuit is completely separate from the key switch. If you have a fuel kill switch and no start kill relay, then in your scenario they will be able to get your car to crank and turn over briefly, but it will stall w/out fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you kill the starter outside in the engine bay... and you kill the fuel or main relay by killing the ground... all this controlled by the brain.

if the brain has not disabled the kills, then all that happens is the car is "on" but can't start, and has no fuel...

if there is a "sequence" of things to press before you can flip the "main" power switch, then thats a little more confusing than turning a ****... if you make the "main" power switch controlled by the brain, then thats another layer...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baller status &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't understand how you think that acc1, acc2, ignition switches and a push button start are more secure than a key cylinder. A key cylinder isn't very good security, but any crackhead can flip switches and push a button.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the key cylinder is weak, and the theives break it, by forcing it to turn, kicking it, or some other brute force, they can create more damage by bending the mounting bracket... once its broken, your steering lock is gone... then to start it, just unscrew the 2 screws holding the electronic part of the key cylinder, and turn the center piece.

A crackhead can flip switches, but he can't find the brain that provides power to them... or figure out your sequence....

the reason behind this, is luxury cars don't need an actual key anymore.
they all use electronic locks to secure them...


Modified by bpr0422 at 1:46 PM 3/11/2008

 

A switch has a wire going in, and a wire going out. Unplug the wires and twist them together, no more switch.

The problems I see are

inconvenient so it wont always be used.

wont be used by other people borrowing the car (may not be relevant to you)

overly complicated

loss of reliability

You're not going to want to put switches on your high current wires. You're going to need relays. I get the feeling that once you see the enormity of your project you'll give it up. It's a good idea. There are a lot of good ideas out there and I tend to shoot a lot of them down cuz I'm a realist *cough *******. If you have a stealth install, you can sleep soundly. I do. If someone can overcome a stealth install, the only thing that will stop them is something large and physical, like a boat anchor welded to your frame rails.

 

i know i would need relays....

its basically using a race car setup in a street car &gt;.&gt;

and i know it would be inconvenient for other ppl...

but its just a thought....
wasn't like i was actually going do it =D

just think about it...

hell if you wanted to...you could have the car turn on when you press the unlock button... then push the start button... its all possible...

or convert it over to a proximity key system...

 

Another low sleep question: what about a vacuum system kill switch. An electric or mechanical valve on something like the FITV or IACV?

 

I don't know about that cuz my car Idles and drives w/out a FITV and with the IACV unplugged. The thief just has to hold the throttle open 1% to prevent stalling.

I bypassed the FITV a long time ago.

Been tuning my Idle with the AEM EMS for the past week. So I know all about it.