I just finished my fiberglass box well almost need some advice on which subs I should get need 2 10 " subs
I want some loud ones that shake my neibors house so they get pissed slightly, I have a 1200watt amp kicker but I'll upgrade if neccesary,
so here's what I wanted but advice would be appreciated
10" type r alpine subs
I heard them but I don't know if their that loud, I'd should I get some rockfords cuz I heard them bang pretty loud

 

Umm. You kinda defeated the purpose there now didn't you. Your supposed to buy the subs first and then make the box. Reason being every sub must be in a box that is built to certain specs and if you have a kicker amp why not get kicker subs? Just a thought since kickers can take a beating and work very well with the same amp.

 

^^^ Exactly right. You don't just arbitrarily build a box.

What's the internal volume of the box? Do you know how to figure it out?

 

a little over 2ft, yeah I used styraphoam

 

You're going to have a hell of a time finding a 10" sub that works well in a 2 cu. ft. box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NaKnAmAn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Umm. You kinda defeated the purpose there now didn't you. Your supposed to buy the subs first and then make the box. Reason being every sub must be in a box that is built to certain specs and if you have a kicker amp why not get kicker subs? Just a thought since kickers can take a beating and work very well with the same amp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The six-pack is on me, I have to agree with B18C_EJ8 the above is exactly right. The six-pack is because it was a n0ob with one post who said it, when was the last time that happened?


Anyway, as mentioned you have done things kind of backwards, but it may still be possible to get good sub bass, you will be limited in what subs you can install into your cabinet, obviously the biggest issue is the box volume, so the first thing to do is to get an exact, [or as close as possible] volume, "a little over 2ft" is not exact enough.
Keep in mind, although you can't increase the volume, you can decrease it, the sub itself will decrease the volume.

The next issue is kind of twofold, mounting depth and mounting diameter, all 10" subs do not use the same mounting hole diameter, or have the same mounting depth, both problems could be solved with "mounting adapter rings", depending on your box design.

Now a question you need to answer, what is the model of your Kicker amp? 94

 

ok i looked at my box, and its slightly smaller than my kicker box(12" square sub) about 1ft suare smaller and my kicker box is ported while my other is sealed, my kicker is extremely loud(eaisly makes car alarms go off) and thats how i wanted it for my 10" duals, real loud but see i have little experience on subs i am nto performance so thats why i need advice
i made this box cuz my kicker barley fits in my hatch and it can only be faced up towards the window, dont know if thats good dor the seal lol.
would 10" type r alpine be good for this box its estimated 3.5ftsquare and depth is deep, like 12 inches ill post a pic tommarow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8killaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i looked at my box, and its slightly smaller than my kicker box(12" square sub) about 1ft suare smaller and my kicker box is ported while my other is sealed, my kicker is extremely loud(eaisly makes car alarms go off) and thats how i wanted it for my 10" duals, </TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all, do not confuse physical dimensions with internal volume. They're not the same.

Secondly, you're comparing a 12" Kicker to two 10" Duals? You have a lot to learn, my friend. Your Dual subs will most likely sound better in a sealed enclosure, with separate airspaces for each sub. They'll likely sound like dog **** in a ported box.

What are we powering the Duals with?

 

haha thx for not reading my ? but I appreciate the reply
well look I havnt bought any subs I meant dual subs not the brand dual, thats walmart brand dude
and its a sealed box I made, 10" sub(1) usually can be in a .7-1.5 cubic foot box though soo does it matter if its 2 or 3 cubic feet and you mean I should separate(like put a boundry) for the two speakers, why would that matter
tommarow I'll chk sum sites and see what's up for a little experience on how subs/amps/and car audio in general works cuz I took 2 days hooking up my cd player amps and speakers and sub in my car but its loud as hell so I like it(the sub and box are just not right for that little hatch) plus my car is like 1.5 " lower on the back and 1 " higher on the front looks gay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8killaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well look I havnt bought any subs I meant dual subs not the brand dual, thats walmart brand dude</TD></TR></TABLE>

b18c_ej8 knows the difference between duals... the generic.... i didn't even know dual made subs..

but when he said your duals will sound better in a sealed box.. he was talking about the 10" Alpine Type Rs you mentioned.. those are DVC subs, Dual Voice Coil subs...

&gt;.&gt;

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8killaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and its a sealed box I made, 10" sub(1) usually can be in a .7-1.5 cubic foot box though soo does it matter if its 2 or 3 cubic feet and you mean I should separate(like put a boundry) for the two speakers, why would that matter
tommarow I'll chk sum sites and see what's up for a little experience on how subs/amps/and car audio in general works cuz I took 2 days hooking up my cd player amps and speakers and sub in my car but its loud as hell so I like it(the sub and box are just not right for that little hatch) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sealed boxes are more forgiving with exact box volume... but there is still a limit to how little volume a sub needs... it all depends on what sub you use.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8killaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus my car is like 1.5 " lower on the back and 1 " higher on the front looks gay</TD></TR></TABLE>

The hatch will always look like that... the rear wheel arch is actually lower than the front...

if you put a string from the top of the rear wheel arc, to the front wheel arch.. the string will not be level....

 

quoting ur signiture
I can't beileve u cuz u ain't know nothing
but damn I fell like a noob, thx foe destroying me I needed it

bout the wheel arch (thats gay) newer cars have less wheel to fender gap and look much cleaner, I cans lower my car to cuz I liv in Detroit where there r 2ft deep potholes, this city sucks ***, I got to move

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpr0422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but when he said your duals will sound better in a sealed box.. he was talking about the 10" Alpine Type Rs you mentioned.. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

No I wasn't. I assumed he was purchasing Dual brand equipment.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8killaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha thx for not reading my ? but I appreciate the reply
well look I havnt bought any subs I meant dual subs not the brand dual, thats walmart brand dude</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then say what you mean. Say "two subs", and there won't be issues.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and its a sealed box I made, 10" sub(1) usually can be in a .7-1.5 cubic foot box though soo does it matter if its 2 or 3 cubic feet</TD></TR></TABLE>

It does absolutely matter. As I stated before, you have much learning to do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and you mean I should separate(like put a boundry) for the two speakers, why would that matter</TD></TR></TABLE>

You just need it. I'm not getting into why you must have each speaker in its own airspace, because it's obvious that box design and speaker operation are topics taht are currently out of your realm of comprehension. Just build a divider (not a "boundary") and you'll be happy with the results.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus my car is like 1.5 " lower on the back and 1 " higher on the front looks gay</TD></TR></TABLE>

What the hell does that have to do with anything?

 

correction to humiliation to advice to demand to laughter
dude h-t has forums for help not saying I'm better u don't know ****, maybe I done know about audio but I'll know about other stuff and help out other people on here

I'll take the advice though in about 5 weeks I'll have it done and I'll tell u if it bumps hard or not, trust me as long as my neighbors alarm goes off occasionally I've accomplished my mission

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The six-pack is on me, I have to agree with B18C_EJ8 the above is exactly right. The six-pack is because it was a n0ob with one post who said it, when was the last time that happened?


Anyway, as mentioned you have done things kind of backwards, but it may still be possible to get good sub bass, you will be limited in what subs you can install into your cabinet, obviously the biggest issue is the box volume, so the first thing to do is to get an exact, [or as close as possible] volume, "a little over 2ft" is not exact enough.
Keep in mind, although you can't increase the volume, you can decrease it, the sub itself will decrease the volume.

The next issue is kind of twofold, mounting depth and mounting diameter, all 10" subs do not use the same mounting hole diameter, or have the same mounting depth, both problems could be solved with "mounting adapter rings", depending on your box design.

Now a question you need to answer, what is the model of your Kicker amp? 94

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks fcm. I wasn't trying to rain on anyone's parade. I am a nOOb here on HT, but I have been installing sound systems since I was 14. I go back to the Sherwood 240 and Super Pro sub days...if anyone can relate. Just thought I would voice my opinion just as others do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v8killaz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correction to humiliation to advice to demand to laughter
dude h-t has forums for help not saying I'm better u don't know ****, maybe I done know about audio but I'll know about other stuff and help out other people on here

I'll take the advice though in about 5 weeks I'll have it done and I'll tell u if it bumps hard or not, trust me as long as my neighbors alarm goes off occasionally I've accomplished my mission</TD></TR></TABLE>

This I must agree with. I joined HT because I am currently building a B18c1 motor that I am putting in my DA and although I am mechanically inclined...I don't know everything. As to your lowering problem, I assume you are dropped on srings? If you are you could just go and put on some coilovers and that would solve your "gay" wheel gap issue. Good luck on your mission and I hope all works out well.

 

read my previous reply and ull find out i live in detroit where theres holes in the road that are 2 ft deep and snow is crazy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NaKnAmAn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I go back to the Sherwood 240 and Super Pro sub days...if anyone can relate.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Holy crap! I haven't even thought about Sherwood car audio in like 10 years!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Holy crap! I haven't even thought about Sherwood car audio in like 10 years! </TD></TR></TABLE>LOL, our shop system is a home audio Sherwood receiver and amp, about 20 years old and still working. 94

 

man get two 10inch rockford t1 they are like $350 a piece and will knock or you can get a w7 from jl but i would get the rockfords with a power series amp...i temporarly live in charlottesville va and i work at crutchfield. i had a chance to borrow some and they were nasty

 

chuck that box though and rebuild one to specs of your sub it written on the box. or you can try using polyfill to trick your sub into thinking there is more space

 

Alpine type r's are loud, Alpine Type x's are nasty. That's what I have.