Loosening the locking nut for the outer tie rod end has been a pain. I've used PB Blaster, vise grips, some leverage, even heat and this sucker won't budge. Neither will the tie rod itself.

Question...does the locking nut thread normally onto the inner tie rod? i.e. If I'm facing the hub, does the locking nut loosen (move towards the inner tie rod) by turning clockwise or counterclockwise. Just wanna make sure it's not a threading issue...otherwise I'll need to eat more spinach

 

i usually have to kick it with a 22mm wrench.

no way my hands could do it.

if you have the car lifted high enough and its a combo closed end wrench on the other side, you can use another wrench to get more leverage.

btw, its normal thread, but it can be confusing which way to go. just feel the threads to be sure.


Modified by Tyson at 3:50 PM 3/4/2008

 

yes it loosens toward the inner tie rod, I just hit mine with pb blaster the day before and had no problem getting it of by hand. get your self a nice long 22mm wrench or 7/8 will also work and if you need to hit the wrench with a hammer.

 

You sure your "Loosening it"?

 

it does loosen normally...no 'reverse' threads. use a back up wrench on the tie rod end and once it's loose you'll need to hold the inner tie rod with a 14mm i believe. take it all apart, clean the threads with a wire brush and use oil or grease on the threads so it's not so hard next time.

i played with my alignment for awhile, and that nut doesn't have to be crazy tight. if you live in area with salt/rust, the lube helps big time for future repairs.

 

i dont know where i got it from, it was long ago. but i have a 1/2inch drive outer tie rod socket. makes short work of stubborn outer tie rods http://www.thetoolwarehouse.ne...3.jpg looks like that more or less..

 

I had the same issue. Using a propane torch for roughly 10 minutes didn't work, PB blaster, big wrenches, etc.

I ended up taking it to a shop where they had to get it red hot to loosen(using an Oxy-Acetylene torch). I got charged a half hour of labor :/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K2e2vin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same issue. Using a propane torch for roughly 10 minutes didn't work, PB blaster, big wrenches, etc.

I ended up taking it to a shop where they had to get it red hot to loosen(using an Oxy-Acetylene torch). I got charged a half hour of labor :/</TD></TR></TABLE>

ouch, thats some rapage......

I just let mine soak in PB .. I hit it about 5 times in a day and let it soak overnight.

 

thanks guys...i actually got it off the other night using a combination of methods you all posted.

Here's what i did in order:

1) soaked it w/ PB Blaster
2) tapped w/ rubber mallett to weaken the connection
3) put a 22mm open wrench on the locking nut...wrench level to the ground but kinda pointing to the back tire.
4) put a vise grip on the tie rod end near the locking nut (to prevent the 22mm from easily falling off)
5) jack stands safely supporting the car on the front end.
6) lied down w/ my head near back tire, left leg on the outside of the jack stand, right foot on top of the 22mm
7) using my arms against the back tire as leverage & stepping down on my right foot, that sucker came loose in a few seconds
8) used a wire brush to clean the threads & applied anti-seize to make it easier next time

I probably should've had someone snap a pic...whole thing seemed funny-lookin

 

oxy-acetylene torch and i are like (crosses fingers)

 

I used a jack to turn the wrench