Motor is a JDM B16A. no clue what the mileage is.

#1 150
#2 180
#3 175
#4 175

This was after a chemical cleaning at a shop. any input as to how these numbers fair would be appreciated. internals are completely stock.

thanks~

 

cylinder 1 seems low. The numbers would be 5-10ish apart give or take.

Rings, or bad v seals can cause that.

Does the car smoke when your on it?

 

it does im told. white smoke.
what are v seals?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Convert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it does im told. white smoke.
what are v seals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
v-seals are valve seals.

 

now i feel dumb. i thought these numbers seemed low.

 

Wrong info, valve stem seals CANNOT cause that. most healthy stock b16's push around 200 on my gauge...warm engine.

 

OP, as a novice you should use the compression test as a means of comparing the cylinders to each other. For example, 159, 160, 161, 160. In this case the average is 160 and the range is +/-1. While the absolute number does have meaning, it harder to interpet because of factors like cams, carbon deposits, etc. The most important thing is the range and "eveniness". On a healthy motor, the cylinders will all read very close to each other, less than 2 points difference.

For instance on a cheap tester from a local parts store, I've seen healthy b16a's have 160 all the way across on a warm motor.

On the tester Runnerdown mentioned like a snap-on, they tend to more accurately measure cylinder pressure and can be used to glean more information about the motor.

BTW,

That motor needs to be re-built before you use.

 

thats kinda what i was starting to think. how long do we think before it goes bam? i realize its not an exact science, but i do need a guide.

 

Not gonna go "bam" unless something stupid is done to it. B16a are hard to kill. They mostly just get weak and burn oil.

 

mar778c: in complete seriousness, i lol'd at how obvious it is that im a noob. thanks for your input. i constantly learn more on this site everyday.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not gonna go "bam" unless something stupid is done to it. B16a are hard to kill. They mostly just get weak and burn oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah. i see. well, seeing as how im going to need a "rebuild" (thats the excuse the wife is getting anyway), do you guys have suggestions on mild head builds as far as manufacturers go? i hear skunk2 all the time, but golden eagle pops up as well. oh, and ARP. not looking to make a lot of more power, just stronger, maybe in case i have some boost added next year.

more over, does anyone have rough estimates to take the head apart and replace stock components? I dont want o get screwed because i have no basis for internals.

 

first you need to decide how far you want to take this project, i mean hey since your gonna have the head off why not pull the bottom off and put new piston rings on that bad boy, and since the bottom is off put new rod and main bearings in too. and to replace the valve stem seals everything in the head is comin out SOO you might as well port and polish it while your at it. basically if your going to replace SOME seals and gaskets you might as well put in the little extra time and money to do the whole job so you know that everything is gonnna be workin for yea. Thats just my opinion though you gotta decide what you want

 

I agree. Do it right if your going to do it at all. I wont be looking to make some impressive numbers at all. mostly good strong aftermarket parts to last. I may put a decent set of cams in there, but that remains to be seen. At any rate, the long term goal is to boost, and if the engine needs work, might as well, prepare to take it that direction, right? if anyone has done something of this nature, let me know what kind of price range if you dont mind.

thanks for all the help!

 

If you plan on just replacing stock parts on the internals as far as seals and gaskets, its not very expensive. just very time oriented. i just got done replacing EVERYTHING on my h22, if you have'nt done it before just take things apart and keep organized and the biggest advice i could give you is buy a service manual for your engine meaning the car that the engine comes in. A service manual will help you with everything you need to know as far as replacing things and most importantly torque specs. a manual may be like $100 but its worth every penny. as far as a parts list and cost youll have to spend time doing that on your own but i imagine if your just doing a engine rebuild its going to be around 300-500 depending on if you get a new oil pump, water pump etc.

 

And dont forget to disconect fuel infectors when doing a compression check. If you leave em connected youll start to wash down the cylinders and get progresively less compression numbers. Also make sure the TB is wide open, for best numbers.

All and all a leak down test is the best way to determine any problems.

 

thanks for the great advice fellas. that answers quite a bit for me. i would love do the rebuild, but on a 1-10 scale, how much of a skill level is this? With the appropriate info, i think mostly anything is a potential DIY, but i literally have no Exp in this area. if i do a rebuild, i think that aftermarket will be the best way to go.

any other input is apprecaited. thanks again!