i ordered pistons on ebay and the person said they were 2000 integra pistons

well i get them tonight and they have pr4 rods (ls??) are they shorter than gsr rods??

these are supposed to go in a gsr block with blox stage 2 cams and supertech dual valve springs and retainers

my friend works at a machine shop but i dont know how to unpress the wrist pins to put on gsr rods

this is my first ever engine build HELP

 

anyone??

 

The Rods will NOT work. LS has an 89mm stroke where-as the (1.8L) GSR has an 87 (same as ITR). I'm not sure of the exact rod lengths, but I believe the LS is a little longer than the GSR (how that works out, I dunno, I woulda thought it woulda been shorter because there's longer stroke but I believe it's actually longer, please correct me if I'm wrong b/c I'm going on what someone else told me). I would like to know the exact rod-length of the GSR or if someone has a TECH FAQ sheet of the specs of B-series motors (I remember seeing one a while back).

 

i read the ls rods are shorter so if installed them they would give me a lower compression ratio which i defeats the whole purpose of the type r pistons

i might just have to put my stock gsr rods in with the type r pistons

anyone know if its alright to remove the pistons to install them on my gsr rods?? it wont stress or crack my pistons when removing the pin right??

 

no go on ls rods or their bolts, death at 9k to block

 

Those PR4 rods(LS/B20 rods) with ITR pistons will go great in a GSR block if you have the LS/B20 crank to match. Don't use those rods and pistons though with your gsr crank. You can find a used LS or B20 crank for around $100, get yourself a Golden Eagle oil squirter plug kit so you can remove you stock oil squirters and plug up the holes so that the oil squirters won't hit the LS/B20 crank. You'll have yourself essentially a sleeper LSVtec just like my build and several others here
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1837872

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no go on ls rods or their bolts, death at 9k to block</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, the stock LS rod bolts are the weakest link, but can easily be remedied w/ ARP Bolts, and balancing the crank and utilizing the stock GSR girldle will allow revs beyond 9K rpm, granted the motor even makes power that high.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, the stock LS rod bolts are the weakest link, but can easily be remedied w/ ARP Bolts, and balancing the crank and utilizing the stock GSR girldle will allow revs beyond 9K rpm, granted the motor even makes power that high.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This guy knows what he is talkin bout, agreed. My suggestion, sleeve it and go crazy.

 

Sleeving if you can afford is a great way to make power, and you won't have a B20 stamp giving away what you got

 

im getting married and going to florida in june so i dont want to throw a ton of money in it the spare engine has around 108,000 on it im really just planning on doing a standard build nothing really crazy

i bought the blox b cams and supertech dual valve springs with titanium retainers already this combo should easily hold up to 9500 right?? with the type r pistons i should be at 10.8-11-1 compression im just worried about my rods

would it be fine to just use the gsr rods that are in the engine already, or should i think about shot peening the rods to hold up to 9500??

im planning on porting/ polishing the head along with a skunk2/blox im and throttle body for the head flow

let me know what you think

 

Get some ARP rod bolts for sure, not matter what rods you decide to use so that you can rev to 9500 rpm w/o worries. But remember, if you use the GSR rods you must use the GSR crank, if you use the PR4 rods, you must use an LS/B20 crank. I would just have the ITR pistons removed from the PR4 rods and have them pressed onto your GSR rods, all you will need are new wrist pins versus an LS/B20 crank to use those PR4 rods.

 

thanks for all the help, should i get the arp head studs too or do i not need those??

i know on sohc cam engines when you pulll the head off you have to use new ones
but not sure about dohc

and are the gsr and type r wrist pins the same??