Anyone have one? or make a quick one for me? it'll be my first time doing this. I found that the inner cv boot on the passenger side had a tear in it. and for the past couple of days my car would vibrate every now and then every time i gas it. but never vibrates when im just coasting, braking. only when i gas it. So if anyone has done this before and has a DIY it would be REALLY APPRECIATED!!!

 

if you have access to all data or mitchell, they would have it. But i would like to see a with pics to since mine is broken

 

yea, i dont i have access to any of those. =/

and yes pictures would be a plus! but i dont mind good instructions. =D

 

Its almost not worth it for the hassle (and the mess)... a new axle is less than $100.

 

Driveshafts Removal

Special Tool Required
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL00200

Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.






Remove the wheel nuts and front wheels.
Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
If the driveshaft is removed, drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug using a new washer:
Manual transmission.
Automatic transmission.
CVT transmission.






Hold the stabilizer ball joint pin (A) with a hex wrench (B), and remove the flange nut (C). Separate the front stabilizer link (D) from the lower arm.






Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and remove the nut.
Separate the ball joint from the lower arm (C) with the special tool.






Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.






Pry the inboard joint (A) with a prybar, and remove the driveshaft from the differential case as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft (B), because the inboard joint may come apart. Draw the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal

 

That was a great diagram. I'm going to be doing this before too long. Got one on the left side clicking. Anyone tried the beefier ones I've seen?? I'm planning on boosting and figured if the stock axels can't handle a whooping 100 HP then it probably couldn't stand 250+ Anyone tried um?

 

good diagram. props to you

 

thanks latinem2. most appreciated!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr0j3xt01v1c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks latinem2. most appreciated!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem, I have access to alldata here at work

 

yea, i got the autozone one. 65 bucks! thats after i turn the core in. honda one is 300+? correct me if im wrong. but yea. just waiting for my friend to come over with a breaker bar gonna start this evening.

 

you can do it without removing the sway bar link or draining the trans fluid. it's pretty easy.

 

tell me your way skipbarber! please!!!

 

well, tried removing the spindle bolt. broke two craftsman breaker bars in the process. ghey. just gonna go to honda in the morning and have them do it. i got a friend that works there so yea.

well, me and my friend were using a 1/2" breaker bar with a car jack bar for leverage. well, we broke two of those so we were thinking that it wont break using the same size socket but with a 3/4" breaker bar. so that mean I have to go buy a 3/4" breaker bar and a 1 1/4" socket to fit the breaker bar. It shouldnt break I hope considering how much thicker the 3/4" is compared to the 1/2". wish me luck cuz im gonna need it.


Modified by pr0j3xt01v1c at 7:29 PM 3/4/2008

 

Sounds like you need a cv axle or possible joint.. If you've got a torn boot and it's causing a shake under accel and your looking at cv joints, it's usually do to binding/stiff inner and/or outer cv joints..

Good Luck..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can do it without removing the sway bar link or draining the trans fluid. it's pretty easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take the crash bolts out of the strut. Pop the axle out of the tranny, work quickly and pop the new one back in.

 

thx PnX-R and Boilermaker. Yea I'm just having trouble with the damn spindle bolt. so wish me luck with that and hope I dont strip any studs or break them. eeeekkkk....

 

It's worth buying yourself a decent breaker bar instead of throwing money at cheap ones. Get yourself some Snap-On tools, you won't regret it - it's all i use. Plus you get a lifetime guarantee, if you break an item it'll be replaced FOC.

 

well, i dont know about craftsman being cheap but craftsman has lifetime also. lol. but yea. ill look into those snap-on tools. thx

 

Here's a tip for your breaker bar.. I just use a cheap craftsman bar without a ratcheting end on it. Then I take my trusty 3lb sledge and bang on it a few times. It gives it that impact gun effect. It's worked for me in tight spots, and I find that there's less of a chance of the darn thing breaking the joint.

As for Snap On tools, honestly, I only use my snap on stuff on rusty bolts because the sockets a better tolerance and are less likely to round off. Other than that, they're pretty much the same to me. Don't get me wrong, I use other snap on stuff, but they're all bought separately for different jobs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnX-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for Snap On tools, honestly, I only use my snap on stuff on rusty bolts because the sockets a better tolerance and are less likely to round off. Other than that, they're pretty much the same to me. Don't get me wrong, I use other snap on stuff, but they're all bought separately for different jobs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Granted, you don't need Snap-On gear for every job, sometimes cheaper tools will do just fine. I find Mac Tools are also pretty good and a bit cheaper than Snap-On, but that's also reflected in the slightly lower quality in my opinion. But i don't think you can't beat Snap-On ratchets, flank drive spanners, side cutters and grips, bars, screwdrivers etc.

 

well, theres a piece of info i didnt know. thx with the advice about the sledge PnX-R. but yea, thats true about some cheap tools. just depends on the job.

 

LatinEM2,
that was excellent information you gave for the axle removal. Do you have any info for an '04 Civic Si, it has an intermediate shaft.

The manual says to pry it out against the bearing. It's in there good. I plan to pick-up a couple new pry bars today, but I'm worried about damaging the bearing, do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,
redlines4