I found a complete RSB kit for the EK for just under $300. Seems a little steep, but if it comes with brackets, bushings, links and hardware it could be good:

http://www.drivewire.com/perfo....html

Has anyone used this bar and would it be safe to bolt to the stock subframe only? Possibly with some backing plates? I don't track or auto-x the car, and don't want to have to get extra bracing. Just some fun cornering in the mountains and canyons around here.

 

should be alright

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swerv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found a complete RSB kit for the EK for just under $300. Seems a little steep, but if it comes with brackets, bushings, links and hardware it could be good:

http://www.drivewire.com/perfo....html

Has anyone used this bar and would it be safe to bolt to the stock subframe only? Possibly with some backing plates? I don't track or auto-x the car, and don't want to have to get extra bracing. Just some fun cornering in the mountains and canyons around here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can get the ASR brace and CTR/ITR rear bar combo for about the same $$ or less.

The ASR kit is around 170 shipped on ebay or jhpusa.com. The CTR/ITR rear bar is around 120 ish with hardware and bushings and all that stuff. You can also get the ASR rear bar for $170.

Go to a junkyard for the links. They should be almost free. There also companies on ebay that sell the links for super cheap.

For around $300 or more, you could have a much nicer setup. I'd use a subframe brace for a 17mm rear bar as well.

 

Honestly a 22mm bar is more than I need. I plan to keep the front bar as is. 17mm seems like a good balance for more "neutral" cornering.

Can anyone else comment? I've read of a few people who ran the 19mm ST bar with no bracing without any problems. I think that was on the EG chassis though. I would have thought more people use this bar...

 

There's also a setup from invidia that comes with a 19mm bar and all attachment hardware.

It comes with a brace also. It's under $200 with everything at the local shop here.

 

might you point me to a link for that, b serious...thanks for the input!

 

You have to remember that the car will respond differently depending on what size sway bar you have on the front and rear. If you want something thats more fun to drive in the mountains then I would suggest at a min. an Ex or Si front sway bar. For the rear, a 13mm seems pointless to me. I autox and would suggest something close to a 19-21 mm rear sway. Its not very bad on the ride and def. makes the car rotate much more and its so much more fun to drive with the rear rotating more. The rear lower tie bar or what B Serious refered to is the ASR Brace which is a very nice addition and is a very good safe upgrade to have to ensure that you cant get any type of subframe tear out where the sway bar bushings are mounted. I would highly suggest that you get it. Its a very quality made piece and I haven't found many people that didnt like it and have yet to see someone with tear out running it.

 

Yes, I understand the risks involved with the inherently weak rear subframe and big sway bars. That's why I started this thread- 19-21mm may be too much, but what about 17? What if a kit comes with it's own extra bracing? What I am saying is that I don't need a large rear sway bar- I don't auto-x or track the car. It is a DD street car that will rarely see the limits of it's suspension. This summer I am planning on installing the Eibach Pro-System- spring and damper package. With higher spring rates and, say, a 22mm rear sway bar the car is going to have way more oversteer than a street car should. Neutral handling is what I am seeking. I found a member who's selling a 14mm GSR setup that I might pick up. Since it's more affordable than a new bar, I can get that setup, maybe some harder bushings and see where I stand. It's gotta be better than what's there now...nothing.

 

Personally, 17mm is not even worth the upgrade. On my old LS, I went from the stock 13mm or 14mm (can't remember which) to 22mm ITR sway. Best mod I did to that car. Never got a chance to auto-x it, as it was sold for an R shortly after, but it was definitely NOT an overkill at all. I would highly suggest this.

There is an astericks, though--you should DEFINITELY go to an auto-x. It will teach you a lot about how your car will handle at its limits. And if you spin out, you just hit some cones instead of running off of a cliff side. Drive safe out there. Try to keep the racing spirit at the tracks only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhennin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to remember that the car will respond differently depending on what size sway bar you have on the front and rear. If you want something thats more fun to drive in the mountains then I would suggest at a min. an Ex or Si front sway bar. For the rear, a 13mm seems pointless to me. I autox and would suggest something close to a 19-21 mm rear sway. Its not very bad on the ride and def. makes the car rotate much more and its so much more fun to drive with the rear rotating more. The rear lower tie bar or what B Serious refered to is the ASR Brace which is a very nice addition and is a very good safe upgrade to have to ensure that you cant get any type of subframe tear out where the sway bar bushings are mounted. I would highly suggest that you get it. Its a very quality made piece and I haven't found many people that didnt like it and have yet to see someone with tear out running it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 99-00 Si front bar will not fit the 92-95 chassis at all. If you put it on a 96-00 chassis, you need the Si LCAs and Si shock forks. The Si bar sizes are set up for WILD understeer. 26/13 (99-00 Si). IIRC, the 92-95 Si was a 22mm front...and I'm not sure if they came with a rear bar.

The ASR brace is not not a tie bar. It may coincidentally do the same thing as a tie bar, but it's not a tie bar. A tie bar is just a bar that goes across the subframe.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swerv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">might you point me to a link for that, b serious...thanks for the input!</TD></TR></TABLE>


Turn off your popups, enable your PM's and then PM me for the name of the local shop that sells it. I'll give you their number. I'm sure they can ship.

 

Did anyone ever have any subframe tearouts with the 17mm rsb if anyone went with that? I know this thread is old but want to know for longevity

 

You should be fine w/ a stock subframe and 17mm swaybar. ITR's come stock w/ a larger sway bar and no subframe brace. Is it added insurance to run a subframe kit? Of course. Is it necessary for anything 22mm or smaller, I'd say not.

 

FYI, this was a 7 year old thread. It's quite likely you won't see a response from the original posters who may have used the setups.

It's why bumping of ancient threads is frowned upon in these forums.

You are better off just asking these questions in your current thread and if needed, link back to this thread for reference.

 

I've had my 17mm on my civic for about a year with no issues.