Lookin at doin a B20 Vtec swap, Just wondering what a GSR head does for HP, tourqe, compression ratios ect.
I tryed lookin this up but for some reason didnt fined anything, so links to other threads answering this would be good. Thnks.

 

hello well I have bean told that the gsr head is the same as a b16 head so I would say look for sites based around that. and also you could try Dart they specilize in doing a lot of B20 biulds so that would be a start.

 

wrong, b16 is the same as the type-r. gsr is different.

play with this http://www.zealautowerks.com/

 

B16 head flows better than a gsr head.

 

I say get whats more easily accessible and or cheaper thats my two cents

 

My friend had his b20v with GSR head...bone stock it put down 168whp. Can't remember the tq numbers.

 

thnks for the bit of info, I'm actually thinkin of just goin with the B18, the tq of the 20 would be nice but I really think I would like the higher revs. If I start missen the tq thing I'll just drive my race truck, its got 405 ft lbs.
Tnks a lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GGcivicEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thnks for the bit of info, I'm actually thinkin of just goin with the B18, the tq of the 20 would be nice but I really think I would like the higher revs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure what you mean....you do realize that both the B18B and the B20B/Z all have exactly the "same" crank and rods. They have the same rpm range, my b20z is very rev happy, no different than an LS motor, except mine has more torque...period

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure what you mean....you do realize that both the B18B and the B20B/Z all have exactly the "same" crank and rods. They have the same rpm range, my b20z is very rev happy, no different than an LS motor, except mine has more torque...period</TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard the B20 didnt rev as high so with a Vtec head you only got about 500rpms or so with vtec, I heard this on another posting some were.

 

i guess if you have vtec kicking at 7k then you would only have 500rpm's of mad vtak.
stock b20 blocks can rev to 7500 easy. add some arp rod bolts and you can go higher. but if you dont have the right supporting mods, there is no need to

 

This thread is painful to read.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numberone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This thread is painful to read. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously. If you want to rev the B20 out you need ARP rod bolts. If you dont change the bolts out you will end up with stretched rod bolts and bearing issues. You will make more torque with the B20 but there are some things that need to be done to make the motor reliable.

 

^^^^ amen brother, stock rod bolts +8k introduces rod and oil pan

 

well I guess people need to stop posting things saying b20 power band drops of at like 5600, misleads people like me who dont know **** bout the B20's.

 

seriously how could you not find ANYTHING!!!

search LS/VTEC, B20/VTEC, or CRVTEC

b16 heads do NOT flow better then GSR heads, ITR heads do because they are factory ported

b20's powerband will be entirely dependent on the head setup after a VTEC head is placed on it.

its not bolt on and go, think like that and you will blow it.

do some searching and stop going by ignorant retards with less than 200 posts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nate_2k5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seriously how could you not find ANYTHING!!!

search LS/VTEC, B20/VTEC, or CRVTEC

b16 heads do NOT flow better then GSR heads, ITR heads do because they are factory ported

b20's powerband will be entirely dependent on the head setup after a VTEC head is placed on it.

its not bolt on and go, think like that and you will blow it.

do some searching and stop going by ignorant retards with less than 200 posts</TD></TR></TABLE>

I search that, but their are so many different opinions on the subject its hard to figure what right or pulled out of some ones ***.
Your info does help thought, I like the straight forwardness. I am thinkin screwin the b20 and just goin with the straight built GSR route.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GGcivicEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I search that, but their are so many different opinions on the subject its hard to figure what right or pulled out of some ones ***.
Your info does help thought, I like the straight forwardness. I am thinkin screwin the b20 and just goin with the straight built GSR route.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its your money build what you want. Every build is different but it depends on what you want and like not what others prefer. I had a stock b20b bottem end with stock gsr head. It ran good but i cut my rev lim at 7500 just for my own goods. Now im back to a built bottem end gsr because i love the b18c1 motor..ahaha...any motor can rev high just as long as you build it right.

 

its fairly simple, you have to do it right or reliability will be in the *******

get the golden eagle ls/vtec kit, made sure the ls block is in good shape, add arp rodbolts and tune. keep reasonable rev limits, especially on b20's due to their poor cylinder wall design

using a gsr block truly is the better option

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nate_2k5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its fairly simple, you have to do it right or reliability will be in the *******

get the golden eagle ls/vtec kit, made sure the ls block is in good shape, add arp rodbolts and tune. keep reasonable rev limits, especially on b20's due to their poor cylinder wall design

using a gsr block truly is the better option</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats true..build it right the first time and you'll be good. any built motor is equally even to screw up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nate_2k5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
using a gsr block truly is the better option</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think so. Having owned both, i'll start by saying they are both good engines. For the money and performance, i think the b20 is a better deal. Especially the later higher compression, more powerful version.
I have one in my EK, and it pulls harder and faster than any gsr swap i've ever been in. This engine is rated at the crank for 146hp and 133ft lbs tq, but it is underated, and makes better numbers than that. Hell, it is not even necessary to go with a vtec head, it performs very well right out of the box. I have only a Toda flyweel and a edelbrock header for upgrades, the car makes tremendous power, and the torque is amazing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't think so. Having owned both, i'll start by saying they are both good engines. For the money and performance, i think the b20 is a better deal. Especially the later higher compression, more powerful version.
I have one in my EK, and it pulls harder and faster than any gsr swap i've ever been in. This engine is rated at the crank for 146hp and 133ft lbs tq, but it is underated, and makes better numbers than that. Hell, it is not even necessary to go with a vtec head, it performs very well right out of the box. I have only a Toda flyweel and a edelbrock header for upgrades, the car makes tremendous power, and the torque is amazing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Seems like a good motor for you. I have owned both but depends what the builder wants to do as an upgrade. If you like the GSR motor stick with it. If you want the b20 then everybody should be respectful of owns choice. The debate with 1.8 motors and 2.0 motors will never come to an end. So good luck with your builds and end the smack talking at the 1/4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GGcivicEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I search that, but their are so many different opinions on the subject its hard to figure what right or pulled out of some ones ***.
Your info does help thought, I like the straight forwardness. I am thinkin screwin the b20 and just goin with the straight built GSR route.</TD></TR></TABLE>

SPEND YOUR MONEY ON WHAT YOU WANT

 

the b20b online comes as 2 versions... the short intake manifold version and the long intake manifold version... does this mean that the short intake manifold version will work in a civic without swapping it out for an ls manni??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Midori Green &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b20b online comes as 2 versions... the short intake manifold version and the long intake manifold version... does this mean that the short intake manifold version will work in a civic without swapping it out for an ls manni??</TD></TR></TABLE>

never heard of such a thing. you should type in b20vtec on search and go to bambam's ls/b20vtec build write up. ask him about it. he should know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16 head flows better than a gsr head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but a gsr head yields more compression vs b16 or type r. And you could port the gsr head I suppose.