I am getting a new job that will require alot of driving.... I am strapped for cash now (like many others) I am planning on buying a Honda Accord somewhere in the 1995-1999 range. Can anyone advise models, engines or transmissions to avoid. Or anything I should inspect, look for or ask about specific repairs/alterations. I am choosing the accord for reliability and economy. I bought my daughter an old Civic that she has nearly 300k miles on it and is still going strong.

Thanks

Rick

 

avoid the 98 and up automatic transmissions

 

this is from the 5th generation specific faq (5th generation is 1994-1997)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

2. What engines came in this car?

All models except EX and V6

130HP 2.2L I4 non Vtec

EX and all station wagons

145HP 2.2L I4 Vtec motor

All V6 modesl (95-97)

170HP 2.7L cast iron V6

3. What body styles did the 5th gen come in?

5th gen accords came in 2 or 4 door cars and a station wagon

5. How long can I expect my 5th gen car to last with proper maint?

Well I have a 5th gen that was rebuilt from salvage at 60K and it has over 143K on it and everything still works on the car. I have had to replace a few things but overall, the car has been extremely reliable and will most likely go 70-100K more miles. I see ads in our paper with 5th gen cars with well over 200K on them being sold on a regular basis.


8. I have a LX can I use EX suspension parts?

You sure can. Also you can add the rear sway bar if you are good at drilling and taping the mounting holes.


10. Why isn't my A/C cold like it used to be even though it is fully charged?

The #1 cause of this is a water valve that is either

A. Partially open (out of adjustment)
B. Rotted out allowing coolant to flow into the heat exchanger.

The problem is that there is no door that closes off the heater core when you move the selector to full cold like there is in most cars. My valve did not close all the way on my car so I bent my cable like this _||_ with a pair of needle nose pliars to shorten it up. Now I have no problems with my A/C not blowing cold.

11. What are some of the problems you have had with your car and what did you do to fix them?

First off my car was rebuilt from salvage in 2001 just before I bought it it had 60K on it Now it has 144,XXX K on it. Was it worth it? for $5K it was a bargain and has served me well. I still have the car and I drive it to work during the week when the traffic is bad and I drive m '98 on the weekend when there is no traffic (yeah V6 sucks when it comes to fuel economy) I am tring to sell it and hopefully I will get my asking price of $2K for it.

Some of the problems I have had were:

A. Improperly installed rear brakes- fixed by buying a spring kit and self adjuster for passenger rear side drum along with new shoes for both sides

B Busted lower ball joint on driver side- fixed by replacing joint

C. Outer CV joint boot clamp failure. fixed it with a new clamp and 3 weeks later the boot split. Repalced joint for $95 ( I wasn't about to try and get that axle nut off)

D. Recharged A/C twice- once when I got it 5 years ago and recharged again last summer.

E. New Radiator cap and T-stat

F. New exhaust after 10 years

G. Passenger driveshaft will need to be replaced some day as there is a slight clunking sound when you hit bumps and the Honda dealer said to just drive it until it breaks.

H. There is a rattle in the sunroof but after 12 years who cares, the roof works just fine and does not leak.

Modified by YeuEmMaiMai at 7:13 AM 4/3/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

i chopped some of the upgrade information out, here's a link if you want to read the whole thing


[URL]https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1527894/URL]

 

Should I avoid all automatic transmissions or just those with the V6?

Thanks

Rick

 

Just the autos on the 98's and up seem to be problamatic. The '94-'97's (5th gen) are pretty reliable when mated to the 2.2 liter (F22). I'd avoid a V6 5th gen accord in general. It's the old C27 engine from the 1st gen Legend and not really suited for the 3000 pound accord. The 2.2 4 cylinder Accords are actaully a couple seconds quicker in the 0-60 than the the 2.7 V6, and they get way better gas mileage!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick1t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should I avoid all automatic transmissions or just those with the V6?

Thanks

Rick</TD></TR></TABLE>

V6 only

 

I have the 98 manual...at 103K miles, it still hums. I just did a full tune up on my own.

It purs and no problems except for replacing a drive side axel. The cv boot tore. The clutch is wearing thin, but still going. The rear brakes had to be replaced. It was easy enough except for the screws that hold the rotor in place. Got myself autozone impact driver and it came right off. Replace all rotors and pads...piece of cake.

good luck. I would buy another one just like it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rick1t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should I avoid all automatic transmissions or just those with the V6?...</TD></TR></TABLE>
V6 especially, but I4 automatics ('98 through '01 or so) also have problems.

The manual transmissions are fine (I have a '99 LX with manual transmission).

 

Be sure to ask if the Timing belt has been changed. All Honda engines are interference engines, meaning that the valves and the pistons cross the same plane when operating.
So if the T-belt breaks the pistons and the valves hit causing cash to flow out of your wallet.

Usually there should be a sticker under the hood showing the millage at which it was changed, if it was done professionally.

Also the front brake rotors on the Gen5 Accords are a B*tch to change. Search the forums to find the procedure.

I have over 172k on my 1997 LX V6, Still runs like a top.