so my rad cap was bad and was allowing coolent to leak out, i got a new one but all of a sudden when i come to a stop the idle bounces up and down constantly till i either hit the gas again or i put it in 1st and let the clutch out just about half way so that the car starts to pull... when i let the clutch go the idle just sits in one place... BUT, if i have the heat on and i do that, as soon as i turn the heat off the idle instantly starts bouncing up and down again constantly... any ideas, air pocket, tps, iacv? what would most likely be the cause...

 

Did you replace the coolant that was lost when you replaced the cap? If not you will have an air pocket in the system that will cause this problem. If the coolant level is good then the Fast Idle Valve needs to be replaced.

 

i did refill it but i may need to bleed it some more, i will try that later tonight or tomorrow morning before work again... i hope its just an air pocket thats still in there...

 

so i refilled and bleed the cooling system and it still idled up and down, BUT after looking around for awhile i then realized that two the bolts on the throttle body were lose and creating a vacuum leak and i tightened them and it instantly stopped surging up and down... but now the bottom hose on my radiator was leaking a little and i lost a little coolent and its surging again... hopefully its just another air pocket now...

 

do you have hondata by chance?

 

I had this problem , it turned out that it was my IAC valve, you can probably just pull it off and clean it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have hondata by chance?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, i have a hondata s300 but its been in for a few months now and this just started a week or two ago now...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoSox46GSr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem , it turned out that it was my IAC valve, you can probably just pull it off and clean it</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill try cleaning that within the next day or two, thanks

 

oh and also i forgot to mention that the car when first started up the idle is perfectly fine (maybe a little high though) but then once it gets to operating temp it then starts bogging up and down constantly when at idle...

 

Theres a hondata glitch out there that my old teg had, and my friends turbo civic has that causes behavior very similar to this.. i noticed it mostly in the cold weather..
not saying this is a definite cause, but might consider the possibility

 

dude it sounds like its your iac valve...my car's got a similar problem to it where when i start braking towards a red light or stop sign, my rpms jump to around 3300...try cleaning it...i heard if u pour brake fluid through one end and out the other, let it sit dry for 15 minutes, that'll do the trick...but brake fluid in general sounds skiddish enough...try at your own risk but all in all good luck with your issue bro

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infamouskillas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude it sounds like its your iac valve...my car's got a similar problem to it where when i start braking towards a red light or stop sign, my rpms jump to around 3300...try cleaning it...i heard if u pour brake fluid through one end and out the other, let it sit dry for 15 minutes, that'll do the trick...but brake fluid in general sounds skiddish enough...try at your own risk but all in all good luck with your issue bro </TD></TR></TABLE>

hell no dont use brake fluid. use brake cleaner bro...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAmodified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hell no dont use brake fluid. use brake cleaner bro...</TD></TR></TABLE>



Takes about 10 mins to do, and is a very easy starting point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



Takes about 10 mins to do, and is a very easy starting point.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Or carb cleaner, it sure takes 10 mins to clean. But takes a while to get the IACV ff, and that is a PITA!!

 

Here's a link for cleaning the IACV.. it's from the accord forum, but still applies to b-series

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1844067

Like everyone else has said.. bleed the coolant.. take the radiator cap off.. (while the engine is cold) and try to burp the air pockets out..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's a link for cleaning the IACV.. it's from the accord forum, but still applies to b-series

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1844067

Like everyone else has said.. bleed the coolant.. take the radiator cap off.. (while the engine is cold) and try to burp the air pockets out..

</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks

and now i have another problem, when i start my car up and it then begins to bog up and down i then get a CEL but then when i shut it off and jump the connector to check what code it is the light blinks real fast once and then just goes away... does that mean i have #1 code or is it doing that because its got no code to read? because when i shut the car off and start it back up theres no cel until its been running for a minute or two then it comes on again... also the cel only comes on sometimes when i start the car not all the time...
so when i shut it off is it just erasing the code and then having nothing to read then considering the light when keys turned to on position it blinks real fast and then is gone and doesnt come back on at all...

 

You can jump the code while the car is running if you haft to..

Wait untill you get a CEL.. then jump the connector and it will blink at you.. Each long blink means 10 and the other blink means 1..

So if you have two long blinks and then 5 single blinks.. means code 25

You shouldn't haft to jump the connector off while the car's running.. the ecu should store the code

Let us know

 

well i just ran outside quick and got the cel to come on, i then tried jumping it and as soon as i did that the cel went off and just stayed off... the car runs perfectly fine except for the bogging up and down at idle...

 

help, need to fix this asap...

 

did you try cleaning your IACV yet?

 

so i was finally able to clean the iacv today and worked like a charm, the bouncing idle is gone. thing was black as hell, it was rediculous... thanks to everyone that helped with that problem.

as to the other problem with the CEL... even after i cleaned the iacv, i can turn my car on and after about 5-10 seconds it goes on. i try jumping the connecter to check the code and the light just doesnt blink, instead it just goes away and doesnt come back. i dont get it and cant figure it out because theres nothing wrong now, it drives perfectly, sounds fine, and everything looks to be connected properly.

 

could someone tell me where my iacv is? I have a 96 ls integra with the same problem.

 

the iacv is on the back of the intake manifold... should be 3 12mm bolts holding it onto the manifold, it will have a connector going to it along with 2 small coolent hoses...

 

thanks alot