+-Throttle position screw setting-+
It isn't OK, to have the throttle screw completely all the way in is it??
That's the only way that I can keep my idle down to 750 rpm. If I back off the screw just a bit, the rpm increase to approx. 1000/1500. Anywhere along those lines, she starts to pulse/surge. I've cleaned the iacv, and egrv.
I've had this problem for sometime now, but just realized that I could be fooling myself that it may be the iacv or fitv that needs the fix. I also noticed it didn't start the problem until I changed the air intake a while ago.
I'm not throwing any codes, until I back off the screw when it surges.
I've also checked the two port holes in the tb, they seem to be pulling vacuum fine. Also, now that I have the screw almost all the way in, when the car is warm and it's at 700-800 rpm (where it suppose to be) at idle, on occasion it will drop to around 400rpm like it's finally catching its correct vacuum and shutter like hell.
I'm 100% sure, that before I took the oem air intake off, that the screw was not completely in.....it was almost flush with the tb.
I've reset the ecu several times, and like I said the only way to have the recommended rpm at idle (750-800) I have to turn the adjustment screw all the way in. I'm not completely positive of tech. how to check the correct screw/idle position.
Any takers???
Sorry for the book.
Thanks guys,
-Shadow-
That's the only way that I can keep my idle down to 750 rpm. If I back off the screw just a bit, the rpm increase to approx. 1000/1500. Anywhere along those lines, she starts to pulse/surge. I've cleaned the iacv, and egrv.
I've had this problem for sometime now, but just realized that I could be fooling myself that it may be the iacv or fitv that needs the fix. I also noticed it didn't start the problem until I changed the air intake a while ago.
I'm not throwing any codes, until I back off the screw when it surges.
I've also checked the two port holes in the tb, they seem to be pulling vacuum fine. Also, now that I have the screw almost all the way in, when the car is warm and it's at 700-800 rpm (where it suppose to be) at idle, on occasion it will drop to around 400rpm like it's finally catching its correct vacuum and shutter like hell.
I'm 100% sure, that before I took the oem air intake off, that the screw was not completely in.....it was almost flush with the tb.
I've reset the ecu several times, and like I said the only way to have the recommended rpm at idle (750-800) I have to turn the adjustment screw all the way in. I'm not completely positive of tech. how to check the correct screw/idle position.
Any takers???
Sorry for the book.
Thanks guys,
-Shadow-
i guess i really dont know much when it comes to this subject because ive never had any idle issues, but if your car was idling fine one day and the next its not wouldnt that tell you that adjusting your idle screw wont fix the problem? you say the problem arose after you put on an air intake right? what did you do with the vac line that controls the butterflies in the resonator box?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but if your car was idling fine one day and the next its not wouldnt that tell you that adjusting your idle screw wont fix the problem? you say the problem arose after you put on an air intake right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Double check everything you touched when you installed the intake or whatever....
Double check everything you touched when you installed the intake or whatever....
Thanks man.
A friend who is a mod on another website, is going to give me a hand with it here locally.
I can't remember, what I did....or didn't do. All vacuum lines are correct, I may not have reset the ecu correctly. Anyways it's all good.
A friend who is a mod on another website, is going to give me a hand with it here locally.
I can't remember, what I did....or didn't do. All vacuum lines are correct, I may not have reset the ecu correctly. Anyways it's all good.
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