my car idles low around 300 rpm and its been doing it for awhile

i have:
D16y8
AEM Short Ram Intake
DC 4-2-1 Headers
RS-R ExMag cat back exhaust

i tried searching but all i got was the idle control valve stuff...

any way to adjust idle or tuning it for my mods so it idles right?

thanks for the help in advance

 

When did this happen after what mod? Was it after you installed the intake?

 

yes it was actually the intakes been on for about a year and its starting to **** me off with low idle

 

Idle adjustment screw on the throttle body?

Have you touched that? Check out a Chiltons or helms for directions... very simple to raise idle.

GL

 

i have a thread similar in the allmotor section under allshownogo. my car usually idles fine unless I run it through a few gears. then the car idles low.

 

i didnt get a chance to check anything else tonight.I was putting on a shortshifter and while doing so I met a few cross-threaded bolts.however when i drove around to make sure everything went well i noticed that maybe my hesitation has completly nothing to do with what we thought it was. i was at a stop with my clutch pedal to the floor and my foot resting on the gas pedal. If I very lightly put pressure on the gas pedal my rms drop and i can lightly tap it and the car will shut off? i guess there is some sort of play in the cable or something but that may not be the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Idle adjustment screw on the throttle body?

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x2 adjust the idle adjustment screw, most people have a problem with it being too high, i guess ur in luck, raising it should be wasy! if that doest work you can adjust the 2 nuts on ur throttle cable to open/close the TB.

 

i will try that tommorow,my valve cover is off right now for paint. which direction should i turn it left or right? also it seems like i only have a problem after i drive it for 5 minutes or so. i will give it a go its better than not trying. thanks for the advice. i will post back tommorow night

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allshownogo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will try that tommorow,my valve cover is off right now for paint. which direction should i turn it left or right? also it seems like i only have a problem after i drive it for 5 minutes or so. i will give it a go its better than not trying. thanks for the advice. i will post back tommorow night</TD></TR></TABLE>

cant remember off the top of my head i think you'll wanna turn it counter-clockwise. lefty-loosy and ur loosening the screw, GL

 

you don;t need the valve cover off to adjust the idle, actually, u want it on...

it is a screw recessed into the throttle body, will have some paint stuff over it, scratch that off, and use a sharpie to mark where it was, just incase.

@d[sick]sTeena - Did you fall on your head? There is a spec for the amount of play on the cable, you don't use that to set idle... if he opens it with that, the next time he floors it he'll spin the control arm that the cable attaches to on the throttle valve and will most likely end up idling at redline...

Please know what you're talking about before you help someone damage their engines...

 

well today I didnt get a chance to do anything,and the only reason the valve cover is off is because I was painting it to cover up writing because its a swap. I looked and located tht screw and i saw the white(ish) stuff on it so I will most likely get to it tommorow. I have a friend from a shop comming over to lend me a hand.

 

joo need a manual, bro.

 

cant u just loosen the distributor bolts holding it on and while the engine is running turn it left or right to raise or lower idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99GreenEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don;t need the valve cover off to adjust the idle, actually, u want it on...

it is a screw recessed into the throttle body, will have some paint stuff over it, scratch that off, and use a sharpie to mark where it was, just incase.

@d[sick]sTeena - Did you fall on your head? There is a spec for the amount of play on the cable, you don't use that to set idle... if he opens it with that, the next time he floors it he'll spin the control arm that the cable attaches to on the throttle valve and will most likely end up idling at redline...

Please know what you're talking about before you help someone damage their engines...</TD></TR></TABLE>

as a matter of fact i did land on my head but that hasn't effected me in yeaaaars. when you type in "idle" in search, if its high or low, everyones gonna say IACV, IACV, IACV, IACV, Screw, Screw, Screw, those are both very good answers and im sure if he did search he would find that he should turn the screw, but just in case either one of those didn't help and he isn't a complete moron adjusting those two bolts wont make his "control arm that the cable attaches to on the valve"(whatever that is) spin and make him idle at redline. adjusting them (the two nuts) so the cable is tight/loose enough can help, although its not the ideal way, its def something to check. thank you

 

I just got in from messing with that screw, my mechanic friend wasnt back in town yet so i messed with it myself. I loosened it one whole turn and it seemed like it was alright for a little while,at least when i lightly tugged on the throttle cable the rpms didnt drop as bad. I will re-examin it tommorow. im pissing off my neighbors so i had to chill out(loud exhaust) i noticed something else for tonight to when i ease back in reverse i hear one maybe two clicks and sometimes when i ease forward. what would that be? I put a short shifter on the car but everything should be fine. If I wasnt so determined to fix this s@*t i would just get a second job to buy a new motor!

 

so i asked a friend about that clicking noise and he said everything may be related to my trans,and that i may be in for a new tranny. i hope this isnt the case. are there any ways that i can tell iff im going to need a new one. i will recap all my problems. When i drive my car after a few minutes pulling of in first ios hesitant and when i get into second it like my car doesnt want to get up and go.it doesnt completly bog down but its just not smooth.if i lightly tug on the throttle cable i can stall the car out.no overheating,throwout bearing is bad though.when i let out on the clutch in nuetral it makes a growling sound. most recently after i sintalled my short shifter i noticed that when i nack up slowly or move forward in first slowly i can hear one sometimes two clicks,and thats it.it doesnt usually happen in 1st gear.

 

for that sound it could be the engine rolling back and furth because of shot or loose motor mounts, mine did that too after i had my tranny replaced under warrenty, the retards didnt tighten the bolts all the way, so the mount would hit the frame whenever the engine moved...

you do not adjust idle via the throttle cable tension nuts, there should ALWAYS be slack in the line, there a a specification for the amount of slack that should be measured when adjusting it.

 

i found a used throttle body with TPS and MAP sensors for $30 locally. Its worth a try for that price. I just went outside and turned the a/c on to see what would happen being that it would put more strain on the motor and my rpms started to hop. I guess the hesitation after i pull off and am accelerating could be related to the clutch.bad throwout bearing clutch has 15K previously owned by a young girl so the clutch is probably toasted.im thinking about getting a xtd stage 2. its only $130(ish) any opinions on that too

 

if you're going to pull the tranny off to replace the clutch you might as well replace it, as there aren't that expensive. replace that TB if its only 30 bucks, and check all of your grounds...

 

just to expand on this, though it doesn't apply to the OP's situation, still good for search purposes...

several aftermarket TB's use the throttle rotor stop to adjust mechanical idle, not an idle screw. i used two BBK tb's for several years that used this method.

 

i have the low idle problem fixed. i found a throttle body with tps and map sensors for $30 locally so i bought that and a new gasket put it on and now i have no problem with losing power after the car warms up. now the only problemhave is my rpmshopping.they werehoppingby 3 to 4 hundredrpmconsistently but nowitonly hops about 100 rpms once ortwicewhen i start itupandwhen i cometo a stop.someonetoldmeto check my o2 sensor. any thoughts on what will fix this. with a 4" exhaust its very noticble and anyoing but doesnt seems to affect my preformace when i get going or after it hops twice

 

sensors can take a few days to relearn their positions...

After i replaced my IACV and adjusted my idle and throttle body plate, the car would hop like you said, then settle down to 750 RPM, now it drops just like it should, down to about 650. Just give it a few days..