allright this has been a very frustrating experience and ineed help as soon as possible.

about 6 months ago i blew up my d15 sc motor and purchased a d15b vtec. i did the complete swap everything harnesses to piggy back whatever. ive done it all. timing is on everything is perfect except. car will NOT rev over 3500, its hitting some knd of limiter and i have no idea how to bypass it and absolutely no clue what could be going on. runs so smooth till 35 then just bogs down. ive sent it to 2 shops and nobody can tell me whats wrong with it. i was told though that it could be something wrong with the computer. ( i installed a p28 ) they said it could have somehing wrong with it and that its no letting it go any further. like in some sort of safemode. but please any suggestions at all will be greatly appreciated. thank you.

 

Yes, it's in limp mode because you have something wrong. Pull the error code (s) from the ECU and let us know what you get.

One long blink = 10, short =1, add them up. there will be a slight pause in between multiple codes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, it's in limp mode because you have something wrong. Pull the error code (s) from the ECU and let us know what you get.

One long blink = 10, short =1, add them up. there will be a slight pause in between multiple codes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That, and did you wire up the knock sensor?

 

there is no light on my p28 to read from so i have no way of checking any codes, is there another way of reading them?

 

Use a code scanner or jumper the 2-pin connection to get the dash light to blink.

 

there is no pin connector because we are using the factory 88 crx harness with a piggy back conversion for the p28

 

I had the same problem first time i Put my D15B into my hatchy, you have to plaqy with ur injector wires i cant remember the exact specs but theres a green wire harness thing on the drivers side close to the firewall/fender connected to little thing that looks like it would be a small stereo amplifier or what not disconnect that an hard wire your injector wires

 

most likely ur dizzy there should be two plugs a 2 wire one and a 5 wire one with the obd1 conversion u need an obd1 dizzy (a 7 wire plug along with the 2 wire coil (correct me if im wrong) the two wires are blue/green and blue/yellow i can't remeber off hand what pins they r, but they need to be ran back to ur ecu. your also going to need a new plug or just use quick clips and put the new wires to ur dizzy

 

Do you still have your injectors hooked up to your resistor Box???

 

You realy need to get the custom ecu to eliminate the knock sensor. also the wires on the disributor should all be checked. i have done this swap it is very easy if you get the kit and the custom ecu you will be alot more happy with the way the engine runs also. you can custom make the fuel maps and rev limiter and remove the 02 sensor also. much much easier it was just plug and play i didnt splice one wire.

 

Did you get your D15b running?

i have a 91 civic si hatch an im tryin to swap in a d15b but also need help
if you could redirect me to the right help i'd appreciate it

thanks