ingalls camber kit - upper control arm mount or Balljoint?
Hey I searched this topic, but I wanted some more clarification.
Basically I have a 4th gen lowered on kyb agx with eibach sportlines, I've had it aligned a couple of times and the numbers were as follows (after correction)
front (camber)
L -1.18x R -1.50x
Rear (camber)
L -2.01x R -2.11x
initially I didn't think wear was bad, and really wanted to avoid camber kits because I figure it's more complication and hassle (ie: something else to go wrong kinda thing) but last year I noticed a significant amount where the tread meets the sidewall (inside edge) - enough to replace two of my tires. I've "read" that camber above -2.5ish? shouldn't need correction, but I don't want to replace tires every 10k.
anyways I'm wondering which ingalls kit has the least hassle? (ex: i've read of people have trouble with bj's hitting the unibody?, i don't want any **** like that)
the uppercontrol arm mount style? (in one post I read they don't make these for the front of preludes? but it is on ingalls website...)

or the balljoint style...

any advice appreciated.
Modified by Altilude at 7:43 PM 2/13/2008
Basically I have a 4th gen lowered on kyb agx with eibach sportlines, I've had it aligned a couple of times and the numbers were as follows (after correction)
front (camber)
L -1.18x R -1.50x
Rear (camber)
L -2.01x R -2.11x
initially I didn't think wear was bad, and really wanted to avoid camber kits because I figure it's more complication and hassle (ie: something else to go wrong kinda thing) but last year I noticed a significant amount where the tread meets the sidewall (inside edge) - enough to replace two of my tires. I've "read" that camber above -2.5ish? shouldn't need correction, but I don't want to replace tires every 10k.
anyways I'm wondering which ingalls kit has the least hassle? (ex: i've read of people have trouble with bj's hitting the unibody?, i don't want any **** like that)
the uppercontrol arm mount style? (in one post I read they don't make these for the front of preludes? but it is on ingalls website...)

or the balljoint style...

any advice appreciated.
Modified by Altilude at 7:43 PM 2/13/2008
i got the ingalls upper control arm units... they are nice.... i also have them for sale since i raised the car back to stock height hit me up if interested and yes those ball joints will have a high chance of hitting
I actually have both on my car. The control arm mounts were on first but did not give quite enough adjustment. I now have ball joint and control arm mounts. It has plenty of range. The only problem is if you are very low, the lock nuts on the balljoint type can contact the upper part of the inner fender. I had to cut a triangle shaped hole in this area. Hope this helps you in your decision.
make sure you lube those where the 14mm bolt goes through them. Mine always make noise every few months. I would try a graphite based spray like they sell for door locks.
cool thanks for the tip.
you can see why I wanted to avoided camber kits in the first place, one makes noise, and the other contacts the unibody ... sounds like a lose lose, but I gotta make do somehow I guess <shrug> wish omni would take less vouches to start constructing that entire upper a-arm. meh.
you can see why I wanted to avoided camber kits in the first place, one makes noise, and the other contacts the unibody ... sounds like a lose lose, but I gotta make do somehow I guess <shrug> wish omni would take less vouches to start constructing that entire upper a-arm. meh.
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How much drop is your car man? If its no more than about 1.5, you should be OK with the balljoints. If I had to chose between the 2 I would get the balljoints. The only reason I have both is because I put the control arm pivots on and misplaced my original mounts. After dropping it a little more , I needed more adjustment so I guess its a good thing I kept em both.But yeah if your not more than 1.5 , you should not have to cut anything. Also don't cut too much off your bumpstops.
i'm not that dropped, but more than 1.5, I believe eibach sportlines are 1.7 rear and 1.5 front (as per docs, but more like 2 in reality) plus they've been on the car a couple of years now, so I've prob settled some (if that actually happens heh).
I'm not going to cut the unibody period. The wear on the tires is strangely odd, it doesn't happen when I roll around on stockers, It may have to do with the extra width of my aftermarket rims and my camber, so that it doesn't effect my more narrow stock setup - for that reason I rolled around on my stockers most of last summer - at first i attributed it to "rub" because it was so odd, but I've looked around with a light and seriously can't find where on the unibody/innerwell/anywhere it could have been rubbing - plus it is just on the inside which is usually a tell-tale of camber issues. meh, I also want new (smaller) rims... but gotta sell the old ones first. All I know is i don't want to be purchasing any more pzero nero's at nearly 300 buck a tire (here in CAN). gets expensive ):
I'm not going to cut the unibody period. The wear on the tires is strangely odd, it doesn't happen when I roll around on stockers, It may have to do with the extra width of my aftermarket rims and my camber, so that it doesn't effect my more narrow stock setup - for that reason I rolled around on my stockers most of last summer - at first i attributed it to "rub" because it was so odd, but I've looked around with a light and seriously can't find where on the unibody/innerwell/anywhere it could have been rubbing - plus it is just on the inside which is usually a tell-tale of camber issues. meh, I also want new (smaller) rims... but gotta sell the old ones first. All I know is i don't want to be purchasing any more pzero nero's at nearly 300 buck a tire (here in CAN). gets expensive ):
I'm surprised no one has mentioned that TOE is probably what's causing your wear. I'm dropped lower than you (2") and my tires wear perfectly fine with no camber kit.
Make sure to have your toe ZERO'd out, as that is what causes most wear. Go to the alignment shop and tell them specifically to get it as close to zero as they can. Camber won't cause abnormal wear if it's under like 2.5" drop if your toe is set properly.
Make sure to have your toe ZERO'd out, as that is what causes most wear. Go to the alignment shop and tell them specifically to get it as close to zero as they can. Camber won't cause abnormal wear if it's under like 2.5" drop if your toe is set properly.
Subscribed, i wanted to post pictures of my tires up here to get some feed back. I havent posted inhere in ages and i have been meaning to get the camber problem on my lude fixed. I have the nuespeed road race springs and i know its settled to over 2.25-2.5 inch.
I havent had the car aligned in over 2 years ( was deployed to korea for 13 months) and im sure that is an issue but you guys should see the inside of my tires, its strange. the right tire inside its cuppling (sp) and the left is rounded down pretty agressivley on the inside.
I havent had the car aligned in over 2 years ( was deployed to korea for 13 months) and im sure that is an issue but you guys should see the inside of my tires, its strange. the right tire inside its cuppling (sp) and the left is rounded down pretty agressivley on the inside.
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