Hello,

1996 Civic LX (Canadian, all season driven)
230000 KM
With ABS.
New break and fuel lines Oct 07 Dealer installed.

My ABS light has been coming on for some time but I figured the car still stops so I would keep driving it. My issue(s) is: my rear passenger side wheel had decided the other day to skid when I went to stop but all the other wheels stopped as normal. The next issue is my ABS pump seems to randomly come on, feel it in the peddle, hear it going, but again the car still stops.

Just wondering, what sensor (speaking of the back wheel) do I need to replace, if any. I'm not terribly interested in putting lots of money into a 96 but would like it to be safe enough to stop with or without the ABS.

Thank you all for taking the time to read and think about my issues (car related haha) I really appreciate the expertise and time shared here.

Jack.

 

Wheel sensors determine if the wheels are slipping. If a sensor is out of range, it may think it is slipping when it really isn't. If the ABS pump is turning on with you off of the brakes, that is a pretty bad problem. Are your tires properly inflated, and with the right size wheel/tire? All of this reports faulty information to the ABS system for braking.

The ABS system should never work when the ABS light comes on, if it does the pump or something in the modulator is defective.

As for possible loss of brakes, the ABS system is a slave system to the service brakes, so even with total ABS failure, you will always have your normal brakes.

ABS is only a limited traction braking system, all it does is provide maximum traction WHILE braking to stop the car. Without it you risk locking up the tires on loose/slippery surfaces, like any other non-ABS vehicle.

 

Well oddly, last night I climbed in the car after leaving it sitting for a good week and a bit and the breaks and ABS worked 100%. Then I went to move the car for the snow plow and after a couple minutes of the car warming up the ABS light came on.

Its strange, someone but not often with the ABS light on it still does the ABS breaking.

The ABS pump does come on someones when I'm not on the breaks but it seems to happen only when I'm driving under 30 KM/h.

I'm thinking I might just pull the fuse for the ABS (will this disable it?).

Thank you for your reply above slowcivic2k

 

Pulling the fuse will disable the system. You might want to check the wheel sensors for snow/dirt buildup or damage. Aside from user error, (under/overinflation or wrong wheel size) the wheel sensor is the next likely system to produce an ABS problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Helm Inc. Manual for 96-00 Civic, P 19-54 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ABS indicator light comes on when the ABS control unit detects a problem in the system. However, even though the system is normal, the ABS indicator light can come on, too, under the following conditions. To determine the actual cause of the problem, question the customer about the problem, taking the following conditions into consideration.
- Signal disturbance
- Wheel Spin
- Only drive wheels rotate
- Battery voltage fluctuates</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Helm Inc. Manual for 96-00 Civic, P 19-59 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ABS indicator comes on under the following conditions.
- When more than one of (the) wheels are at a standstill and the velocity of the fastest wheel reaches a given speed.
- When the velocity of the fastest wheel reaches or exceeds a given speed, and if there are some wheels whose velocity is slower than a certain percentage of the fastest wheel speed for a given period.
- When there are temporary open or short circuits of the wheel sensor, chipped pulser gear, or signal disturbance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

In any case, check the Sensor and Hub Flanges for the problem corner. If you had this problem BEFORE you got your brakes worked on at the dealership, then reset the DTC and monitor the light again. If/When it comes back up, you'll have to go through the steps to get the right code, and proceed from there. If you had this problem AFTER they "fixed" your car, then tell them about your problems and tell their stupid asses to fix it (as nicely and assertively as possible).

Other than that, try to get the DTC code. Best of luck!
JasonGhostz

 

It started up about a 3 weeks after they did the lines.

The wheels are stock, stock rims, pressure is bang on. I take care of my baby. :D Newish battery I think 3 or 4 years and my lights never dim or anything like that.

How do I go about identifying my sensor to clean it? Where is it? What does it look like? Picture/link?

And the ABS actual symptom only seems to happen when gently stopping (so gentle you could set a glass of water on the dash and it not move) but stopping firm/hard and everything works even with the ABS light on and no symptoms. How do i find that sensor?

Again thanks everyone for your help and tips it make a world of a difference.

 

The Rear ABS Sensors are part of your Chassis/Rear Trailing Arm. For Drum Brakes, I am not sure to what it is mounted, but knowing that it gets the Wheel Speed readings from the Hub, I'd say check near the rear of the Spindle, behind the Drum Backing Plate (the Sensor's Pickup should poke through the Drum Backing Plate). Here's a diagram that includes the Sensor (#14):
http://www.slhondaparts.com/im...8.jpg

The Hub (the thing that holds the Lug Nuts and spins around the Spindle (for the Rear)) has a "Tone Ring" around the base of the Assembly. This is actually a magnetic collar that, since it is ridged, sends electro-magnetic pulses to your sensor everytime a "tooth" passes by it.
Here's a pic of it (the Tone Ring can be seen in the bottom pic):
http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/i...JUj0A
Here's a diagram of your Hub, and where it goes on your Chassis:
http://www.slhondaparts.com/im...2.jpg

If your sensor is clean, and there are no broken "teeth" on the Tone Ring, then you'll need to get a DTC from your ABS Light. In any case, since this problem didn't arise until *AFTER* the dealership worked on it, call them asap to tell them the problems you're having. Again, be assertive, but make sure they know you don't take no ****. We don't know enough yet if they're responsible for the problems you're having, but they should at least be willing to check things out for you. Let us know...
JasonGhostz

 

They said $70 to read from the computer and more $$ if they have to put it up to take a look.

I asked about replacement of the sensor and they quoted $350 +tax + install. Seems a bit much...?

But this wasn't the fellow I usually talk to it was the other guy and he didn't seem to willing to check it for free like the normal guy does.

I do have a high mechanical aptitude but have no understanding of the terms/lingo used in cars so some of the instructions appear cryptic until I research the names lol.

Is this something a car novice with a mechanical aptitude and average joe tools can fix?

Thank you very much for the diagrams and information!!!!

 

The Helm Manual will be your best friend...
http://www.helminc.com/helm/pr...ype=N

Mine cost just under $80 shipped about 2 years ago, and has already paid for itself 5 times over (at least). If you really have "high mechanical aptitude", you will not regret buying it. You're just going to have to believe me until you see for yourself.

But $70 just to read the DTC is a bend-over. Take your car to PepBoys, Autozone, or NAPA, and the guys there should be able to read your DTC for free (call them first). The sensor by itself costs about $125, and a new rear hub costs about $150. The thing is, there's no use in "fixing" anything, when we/they haven't determined what's wrong. No sense in spending money when it can't guarantee your problem will be fixed, right?

Anyway, $350 just to replace 1 Sensor seems like a lot, but it sounds like they're charging anywhere from $200 to $150 in labor. If this seems worth it to you, then . But, something like this you can probably do for yourself in a day with the manual and the right tools.

Let us know how things go!
JasonGhostz

 

To read the DTC code, use the same process as for the CEL (Check Engine Light), except the ABS indicator will do the blinking...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

The Service Check Connector is located on the Passenger side of the Interior, under the glovebox and next to the ECU. This 2-wire connector is usually held in by a green rubber connector holder.

Hope this helps!
JasonGhostz