Of course i have searched and came up with some info. Not all that good with math but someone had a formula to figure out the correct position for clocking the trailing arm bushings....i was lost trying to figure it out

Thing is i bought a rear disc conversion so they are NOT on the car now for me to mark them!!! So i am not really sure how to "clock" them correctly.

I am lowered 1.25" on tokico's springs

Can anyone shed some light?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alscrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Of course i have searched and came up with some info. Not all that good with math but someone had a formula to figure out the correct position for clocking the trailing arm bushings....i was lost trying to figure it out

Thing is i bought a rear disc conversion so they are NOT on the car now for me to mark them!!! So i am not really sure how to "clock" them correctly.

I am lowered 1.25" on tokico's springs

Can anyone shed some light?</TD></TR></TABLE>

clock? If you bought a rear disc conversion throw it on with some energy suspension solid bushings. clocking?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whiteknightef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

clock? If you bought a rear disc conversion throw it on with some energy suspension solis bushings. clocking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes clocking is a term for correctly positioning the rear trailing arm bushings so there is no pre load twist once installed. If they are not clocked properly the bushing will get premature wear!

Energy suspension bushings suck and so cause binding in the rear. They are way to hard!

 

I put mine on a slight angle when I put them also. Now that I am lowered down for track duty the bushing sits flat. Rides nice too and I have not "twist" or "binding" of the bushing. Check this out, it will help you http://www.performanceforum.co....html

 

c^2=a^2+b^2

A=distance from bushing to lower control arm mount (inches)
B=Drop of car (inches)

arctan(b/a)=angle of clocking

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">c^2=a^2+b^2

A=distance from bushing to lower control arm mount (inches)
B=Drop of car (inches)

arctan(b/a)=angle of clocking
</TD></TR></TABLE>

See what i mean....just looking at this sh@! give me a headache
Can you help me figure that out????

 

does it actually have to be pressed in by a shop or can u do it urself ? and can a broken bushing cause shocks to blow out ? ive had to shocks blow out and i just noticed the bushing was broken , ive always heard a knocking noise and i never could figure it out until i seen that broken bushing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dark Star &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it actually have to be pressed in by a shop or can u do it urself ? and can a broken bushing cause shocks to blow out ? ive had to shocks blow out and i just noticed the bushing was broken , ive always heard a knocking noise and i never could figure it out until i seen that broken bushing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you buy the tool you can do it yourself....its a bushing xtractor

 

But the tool doesn't do 90-93 Integra trailing arms, and if you try to use it on the DA arms you'll break the tool.

 

you only have to turn it a 1/4- 3/8" or so.

 

http://www.thepartsbin.com/rep....html

i bought these, solid poly bushings no binding and no need to align them.

 

i always do quarter inch rotation per 1" drop. so about 3/8" cocked should be almost perfect.