huge230

I heard somebody say the eg trailing arms were the same for rear disc and rear drum and you can convert without converting the trailing arm assembly. this is bullshit right?

pdiggitydogg

yes, that "bullshit" is right
All trailing arms are the same - its the hubs that are different - drum or disc
The reason everyone swaps entire arms, is because its quite a lot easier to do and to buy that way

Redline96LX

yeah, you need the "spindle" which is this funky shape thats held onto the trailing arm by i think four Torx bolts, and maybe a large bolt, but people just swap the whole trailing assembly. why? I have no idea. personally, i dont wanna pay to ship that much weight

unknown0001

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline96LX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why? I have no idea. personally, i dont wanna pay to ship that much weight</TD></TR></TABLE>


well it's much easier to unbolt the rear trailing arms rather then undoing the torx bolts

Redline96LX

oh of course. why get a wrench and socket when you can lift off a 40lb assembly via 5 different points?

Type V

mind if i hijack the thread?

for those of you who have done a rear disc conversion, what bushings do u recommend replacing?

I am told and have decided to get Mugen trailing arm bushings, but what about others components?

i'm going to slowly take things apart, but it's off a 2000 civic si[r] quite a lotta **** is rusted... would sanding down some parts be good enough? should i coat them with anything after taking off the rust?

pdiggitydogg

The hub bolt is pretty damn big and its a size most people dont have, the torx as well. Plus, those bolts all have thread lock on them, from honda and are still difficult to remove.
I messed with 1 hub 1 time and I would replace the entire arm 10 times before I would mess with another hub. (And it only weighs 30lbs)


Yes, you should get mugen (or oem honda) trailing arm bushings. NOT the urethane ones that cause binding and can slide out of place.
If youre sanding to remove the rust, it would be wise to repaint things so it doesnt rust again...

Redline96LX

definalty repaint, and definatly go with mugen or OEM bushings. dont get those urethane ones. I mean urethane is a kind of plastic, not rubber. Rubber is a dampener. Imagine how hard your ride would be with plastic bushings.

sparco562

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redline96LX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definalty repaint, and definatly go with mugen or OEM bushings. dont get those urethane ones. I mean urethane is a kind of plastic, not rubber. Rubber is a dampener. Imagine how hard your ride would be with plastic bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have energy suspension trailing arm bushing and they're polyurethane. The ride quality is pretty smooth and performance very well under high performance driving conditions and it also help maintain the caster and toe

pdiggitydogg

They also can bind, as I said, and the metal stud can slip out of place causing serious alignment issues.
I dont find them safe in any way, shape, or form