this is the thing i think its due time after 16 years and 300,000 miles. should i use OEM or that energy bushing stuff? i hear mixed reviews about both but i just want something that is better priced and im guessing its gunna be the energy bushing stuff. thanks for the help boys and girls

 

I would say just go OEM unless you had a need for higher quality bushings.

A car with 300,000 miles is a dd I would guess, so there isn't a need for anything better than OEM bushings. But that's just my opinion of course.

You might know about this site already, but I find it usefull sometimes

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/

 

OEM fo sho. Energy makes for too much harshness...but they are cheaper and you dont need to clock them. I dont like polyurethane bushings personally...they ride like ****.

Make sure you clock the bushings after putting them in if you use OEM.

Edit: May god have mercy on your soul. I'd rather do 50 motor swaps than 1 car's worth of bushing swaps. Eughhh.

 

after researching on this board myself, by searching, i found that OEM are the best replacement next to mugen, but mugen are only a fraction more stiff than oem, and oem were remodeled somewhere along the line to be of nearly the same quality (disputably exactly the same) as mugen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OEM fo sho. Energy makes for too much harshness...but they are cheaper and you dont need to clock them. I dont like polyurethane bushings personally...they ride like ****.

Make sure you clock the bushings after putting them in if you use OEM.

Edit: May god have mercy on your soul. I'd rather do 50 motor swaps than 1 car's worth of bushing swaps. Eughhh. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why if im going to place i rather do it with PU bushing...what is clocking?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Edit: May god have mercy on your soul. I'd rather do 50 motor swaps than 1 car's worth of bushing swaps. Eughhh. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i would imagine that they are pretty close in price. i have energy bushings on my car. i like them couldn't complain about them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jhammond_82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would imagine that they are pretty close in price. i have energy bushings on my car. i like them couldn't complain about them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hm ok. but what is clocking?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_PRODUCTION &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hm ok. but what is clocking?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am curious as well. never did any bushing work besides shifter bushings and some PU motor mounts, but I did hear that the PU will need lithium grease or they will squeak like mad.
If you do go with the PU motor mounts I found that they transmit too much vibration into the cabin. So I drilled 3 extremely small holes THROUGH the bushing itself with a very small drill bit. didnt harm the bushing but did quell almost all the vibrations while still eliminating wheel hop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1dumbscreenname &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am curious as well. never did any bushing work besides shifter bushings and some PU motor mounts, but I did hear that the PU will need lithium grease or they will squeak like mad.
If you do go with the PU motor mounts I found that they transmit too much vibration into the cabin. So I drilled 3 extremely small holes THROUGH the bushing itself with a very small drill bit. didnt harm the bushing but did quell almost all the vibrations while still eliminating wheel hop. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i changed all my control arm bushings and the other bushing that came in a kit and it wasnt too bad but i never "clocked" them so i have no idea what that is or if i even have to do it...

 

Clocking: You have to tighten non floating bushings (like oem bushings) in the position that they are going to be used (i.e. ride height).

Imagine your LCA to shock bushing. Front or Rear.whatever. You CANNOT tighten those in the air. You have to set the car on an alignment rack to tighten them or just jack up the control arm till it sits at ride height and then tighten them. This goes for all bushings that work in that manner:

R: LCA to shock, LCA to chassis, LCA to trailing arm. Toe link.

F: LCA to shock, LCA to chassis, UCA to chassis.

The reason is that non floating bushings have to twist when parts move. If you tighten them in the air or too far away from ride height, they will twist beyond their specs..and ultimately tear.

When you lower your car and reuse stock bushings, you have to do this. When you get aftermarket LCAs with rubber bushings, you have to do this. When you remove any of the bolts from the above mentioned parts, you have to do this.

Polyurethane bushings are full floating. You dont have to clock those. The inner sleeve moves indepednently.

Clocking bushings should be a sticky. Maybe i'll suggest it to a mod.

 

wow that's good info.

I was told that i had to "clock" my bushings even though they are full floating (ES)

btw i don't think the ride is that much stiffer w/ the bushings. In fact i really like the ride w/ the new bushings over stock. Squeaking can suck though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheDeadRabbits &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Squeaking can suck though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that could be taken care of with some lithium grease or a moly lube.

 

I had the full race kit (ES) on my da and it didn't vibrate at all really. That thing handled real good too. I got the street kit for my dc I'm waiting to throw them in. I wouldn't suggest lithium grease though because it dries out over time. Use chassis grease if you can cause even though it may seem like it comes off the bushing when you're installing them it does still maintain a thin coating on it.