Hey guys.... some of you may remember me from this post a while back....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2124566

Well, i finally got off my *** and started ordering parts, dismantling the H23 block i have... so the ball is finally rolling... slowly LOL

Anyway.... this is my proposed build now, which is slightly different than the one i had in my previous thread...

'01 H22 head
Crower stage 3 cams (yeah, i already know these are risky, i'm not dumb, just poor)
RM springs & retainers
H23A1 block w/ stock FRM sleeves
H23 rods
H22 Type S pistons 0.25 oversize
Euro-R intake manifold w/ 68mm Professional Products throttle body

i'm hoping to hit 215-220whp and about 170wtq.... so wish me luck!! LOL

i currently also have a POS DC header... which i don't plan on using
my dyno tuner has 2 Erick's racing side exit headers laying around at the shop... so i'm hoping to pick up one of those if money allows
i am on a budget and i have other things i need to spend my money on... but i'll do as much as i can within my budget

i will also remove the balancer shafts.... i have a balancer shaft block off kit coming in the mail from Rosko... hopefully i'll get it soon
i also used his block off plates for my euro-r IM last year... i'll post up some pics for ppl to see

i'm going to pick up my pistons and the rest of my engine parts (seals, gaskets, bearings OH MY!) at honda today.... the only thing i haven't bought yet is a head gasket
i need to take a few measurements before i decide which thickness to go with
the head has been shaved 0.008" i believe and i dunno if the machine shop will need to mill the block
i'm sending the block out this week for machining, so we'll see.... i'll keep you guys as updated as possible

also, this is strictly a drag motor which will be going into an EG hatch... i know, i know, this is the prelude section... but i just find there's a lot of knowledgeable people in this forum and this post will be mostly dedicated to the engine build itself

anyway... here's a couple pictures for now.... i don't have much but hopefully i'll remember to snap more throughout the build


H23A1 block and crank


H23 rods and pistons


the infamous crower 3's i ran them last year with no problems... so hopefully i'll be safe again this year
maybe next year i'll buy some S2 pro 2's.... or maybe even try a set of Blox cams

the following pics were taken from last year....


Rosko's Euro-R block off plates....




i previously had a junk2 intake manifold.... last year i purchased a euro-r IM, but since this is in an EG, it was a tight squeeze
the IACV was sitting pretty close to the firewall.... so, i simply used the IACV relocator plate/lines that came with my junk2 IM to move the IACV away from the firewall.... here's the pic
Rosko, i dunno if you thought of it.... but if you were to make an IACV relocator plate, you might make some money selling this to H22 swapped EG's with euro-r intake manifolds


just an engine bay shot from last year


well, that's about all i have for now.... i'm gonna go pick up my parts today, so i'm sure i'll have more pics for you guys soon enough

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misterpsycho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm hoping to hit 215-220whp and about 170wtq.... so wish me luck!! LOL

i currently also have a POS DC header... </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you balance the bottom end, you should easily hit that mark with your mods. Even with the DC you could hit that mark.

 

Chasing the DYNO#'s.......
Should be a great build.....don't get too hung up on the PEAK #'s though.
My old dyno spot built almost the same setup but used a stock header......setup never broke 200whp with it.

 

are you having the block rehoned and by whom?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ::NirVTEC:: &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My old dyno spot built almost the same setup but used a stock header......setup never broke 200whp with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm not too concerned with dyno #'s.... it's the timeslip that i'm after
last year's build was basically euro-r IM, 68mm TB and crower 3's with a stock exhaust manifold and i hit 192whp..... then ran it open header at the track (header didn't come in time to tune)
i had decent midrange... but i needed a rebuild, came across an H23A1 block for free... so i said "why not"

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you having the block rehoned and by whom?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, the block with be rehoned by a local machine shop.... i'll give them the specs as to how to hone the block.... i understand FRM sleeves need to be honed differently... is that why you're asking?

 

yes because it requires a specific stone at a specific angle. Do you know if they have any FRM experience?

 

Nice thread. Please keep up with the details. I have a H23 build Im starting to work on my self.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes because it requires a specific stone at a specific angle. Do you know if they have any FRM experience?</TD></TR></TABLE>

to be honest, i'm not sure if they do... but if they aren't willing to hone it out the way i want, then i'll take it elsewhere....

 

well.... i don't know if you guys know this... but it was xmas today

well, at least, it was xmas for me today cause all my parts came in LOL








Can anyone shed some light on the coating they put on the top of the Type-S piston???



Here's a picture of my buddy's D-series build.... he gave his rods to an old muscle car guy that's been building engines for probably about 30-35 years and this is what he did
apparently polishing your rods strengthens them... can anyone enlighten us further on the matter?

 

got a couple more questions... i looked at the list of parts needed to do an H23vtec

what's the difference between H23 & H22 thermostat housing and water pipes?

i know that the water pump is different as well as the inner crank gear.... but what's the differences between the 2 parts mentioned above?

 

ok... so, i have another question (that hopefully gets answered this time)

someone told me that you have to hone out H23 rods and then press in the wrist pins
well...... i took a spare F22 rod i had laying around and found out that it doesn't need to be machined at all... the clearances were just enough that i could push the pin in with some oil & thumb pressure

is this right? or is there something wrong with my parts???

 

You have to machine out the rods and press a bushing in so that you have an interferance fit. as far at the water pipe and t stat housin use the h22 stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by my9thtry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have to machine out the rods and press a bushing in so that you have an interferance fit. as far at the water pipe and t stat housin use the h22 stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, well i sent my block off for machining today

as for my wrist pin/rod issue.... i had a discussion with a guy i know who's been building V8's since before i was born, had him check out my rods/wrist pins... he said that the clearances were enough to leave them as is (clearances were 0.001)... what i will do to ensure the wrist pin gets oil is that i will drill a hole in the top center of the rod and then taper the hole to kind of act like a funnel (a little trick 350 guys have been doing for years)

in terms of using the H22 water pipe and thermostat housing... i know ppl say to use the H22 stuff... but my question is why? what's the difference between the parts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misterpsycho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as for my wrist pin/rod issue.... he said that the clearances were enough to leave them as is

i know ppl say to use the H22 stuff... but my question is why? what's the difference between the parts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree on the pins:

https://honda-tech.com/zero...77795

If you look in the H23/VTEC thread most of this stuff is covered, or you can try searching for ¨floating¨ and see what you find.

On the other parts, try bolting your H23 thermostat housing to your H22 head and let us know what you find.

Also, cast pistons often have different alloys in different places to control how they expand as they heat up. Some domestic pistons even have steel inserts cast inside the piston. You´ll notice the piston to wall clearances on OEM Honda pistons are a bit different than on most aftermarket forged pistons.

Looks good so far. Good luck on the build, and keep us posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look in the H23/VTEC thread most of this stuff is covered</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll do that.... there's just a lot of BS/useless posts in that thread and 25 pages worth is a lot to sift through LOL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the other parts, try bolting your H23 thermostat housing to your H22 head and let us know what you find.</TD></TR></TABLE>

will do

 

hows the idle on those stage 3 cams??

 

the engine appears to be sitting uneven in the bay. what mounts are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Apex1972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the engine appears to be sitting uneven in the bay. what mounts are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they're avid racing mounts... i kinda bought them in a rush without doing my homework
they're billet aluminum but apparently they're notorious for cracking.... my tuner said he's seen quite a few crack, he recommended tig welding the suckers together, so that's what i plan on doing once i rip the motor out

i know this is the prelude forum, but on a side note, i don't recommend these mounts to anyone.... they're a real pain in the ***!!!

 

the small ends on those rods look like they took ALOT of heat. with type S pins they should have slid right in with room to spare. where did you buy the oversized pistons? are they actually oversized, did you measure them yourself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the small ends on those rods look like they took ALOT of heat. with type S pins they should have slid right in with room to spare. where did you buy the oversized pistons? are they actually oversized, did you measure them yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

those are d series rods/pistons.... i was just trying to generate some discussion about what was done to those rods to strengthen them, but i guess nobody knows anything about it, or people just don't want to comment

i bought my pistons on ebay from a guy in singapore... they are OEM Honda pistons and i measured them myself to make sure they were .25 oversize

 

all they will really do to the rods is remove any sharp edges or casting marks. that gets rid of any minute cracks that can propagate into larger ones. you could have done it yourself if you really wanted too.

 

that's what i plan on doing

drilling the hole in the top of the rod and then polishing them

 

you say this is a drag motor so i am assuming you plan on revving fairly high (above 7500), the best advise i can give you is to purchase an ati damper and dont rev higher than needed. also make sure that crank doesnt have a ton of miles on it otherwise bad things will happen. it would be wise to see if you can find someone who would be willing to x-ray the crank for you, dont just rely on magnafluxing for this application.

looks like a good budget build, hope it works out for you

 

yeah.... it's a drag motor

i'm not too worried about blowing it up.... it's only gonna see maybe 4 or 5 events this year
and if it blows up, i'll just rebuild it or build something else
i got tons of parts laying around

 

well.... i got my block back from the machine shop last week.... looks very nice
the machinist honed my block out according to honda specifications.... apparently it's honed the same way as an aluminum sleeved block
the machinist wasn't too happy either because he didn't expect it to take that long.... apparently he said it took him as long as it would normally take him to do 3 V8 blocks LMAO

anyone know what exactly FRM is composed of?


polishing my rods and drilling the holes in the tops of the rods today.... might start assembly of the bottom end as well

i'll post pics of the block, rods and holes i drilled later tonight hopefully


ohh.... i also bought this last week.... it's being shipped out today hopefully
thanks Alchemist











i just couldn't resist