flyrod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misterpsycho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh.... i also bought this last week....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice, that should be good for a few HP.

There have been several articles published on FRM, but I've never seen one that says *exactly* what it is. It's basically aluminum reinforced with ceramic fibers, which makes is pretty hard and wear resistant.

misterpsycho

More pics.....


A nice little present.....






Front of oil pump with the block off piece pressed in.... thanks Rosko!!!


Back of oil pump...


Hole that was drilled in the top of the rod...




Polished the rods as well.... here's a pic of one

alterdcreations

while you have the chance you can cut the releifs in the the pistons .030".
it will help since the pistons are out of the hole.
nice build. sweet header

misterpsycho

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">while you have the chance you can cut the releifs in the the pistons .030".
it will help since the pistons are out of the hole.
nice build. sweet header </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i had planned on claying the motor and then seeing what my clearances were before i cut the valve reliefs
i'd rather not cut them if i don't have to.... or do you think i'll have to cut them??

Ghost 5.9

the surface of the block looks fairly rough in the pics. make sure you cant feel anything w/ your fingernail because these mls gaskets need a mirror finish to seal properly.

i had a domestic shop resurface several blocks and had some problems w/ a couple of them due to the surface being too rough. the coolant will run under the gasket in the surface grooves and mix w/ your oil.

misterpsycho

does anyone know the math equations to figure out piston to valve clearances?

like i said before, i'd rather not have to cut into my valve reliefs, but at the same time i know i'm running a big cam
i'd rather figure out the math before i clay the motor

so, does anyone know the math equations to figure this out? or does anyone have a website that has these equations?

98vtec

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1891614

misterpsycho

i've seen that thread.... but i don't exactly have a setup with dial indicators like in that thread

aren't there math equations to figure out this stuff?

98vtec

personally, i would not rely on an equation for such a critical measurement, if there is one.

misterpsycho

so then where can i buy a setup like this one? and how much do they typically go for?

98vtec

http://www.newenglandhondarebuilders.com

Ghost 5.9

i would definately clay it.

im not sure of the lift on the crowers, but i ran skunk stg.2's in a STOCK h22 and had valve relief interference enough to bend the valves (exhaust side). after speaking w/ skunk they told me their stg.2's really should be run w/ aftermarket pistons for this reason.

your pistons will be out of the hole and have small reliefs since they are stock so i would definately clay it. now if you were running a type s cam i would say you would be fine because i know that will work.

btw, you may just want to stick w/ stock cams for now. i have run the crower 3's at the track vs stock cams back to back and didnt go any faster. on the dyno the crower 3's lost power until closer to 7500rpm so you really dont gain anything from them. they would be even worse on the street because of the midrange loss. type s cams actually performed better at the track and the best performing cams were the skunk stg.2's for the track. but i know you dont have the clearence to run those

misterpsycho

well, i ran these cams last year with a stock H22 bottom end and had no clearance problems.... i actually ran them at +2 intake, -2 exhaust and they were fine

i am thinking about taking alterdcreations advice and cutting them down .030"
i know that with a stock H22 bottom end the piston sticks IN the hole .004".... and with my setup it should stick OUT of the hole .020"
therefore the piston is raised up an extra .024" compared to stock
so if i cut the valve reliefs down .030" then i know that my valve clearances will be slightly deeper than stock
and since i ran these cams at +2, -2 then i would AT LEAST know they'd be safe for that

skunked

yes, you do need to cut them.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ghost 5.9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would definately clay it.

im not sure of the lift on the crowers </TD></TR></TABLE>



lift is 468

misterpsycho

So here's some more updates as to where the motor's at. I've been pretty busy with other things and lazy around doing any work to the motor in the last few weeks. But, i finally got off my *** tonight. Plastigaged the bearings and assembled the bottom end.

misterpsycho

well, i've been pretty lazy with this build over the last month
but i'm just getting ready to clay the motor

i was just wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to make it easier to lock in vtec while i clay the motor...
i know i can lock the rockers with air pressure or by taking them apart, but i was wondering if there were any easier way to do it

i've heard on the B series engines, you can switch 2 dowel pins and it locks them for you.... can you do the same with an H?

flyrod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misterpsycho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know i can lock the rockers with air pressure or by taking them apart, but i was wondering if there were any easier way to do it

i've heard on the B series engines, you can switch 2 dowel pins and it locks them for you.... can you do the same with an H?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes you can switch the pins, but you have to take them apart to do it. You can also just put a ball bearing or wad of paper towel behind the one moved by pressure instead.

Shadowz7429

nice build, love that header

98vtec

nice update, which main is that which has ~.0014"

misterpsycho

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice update, which main is that which has ~.0014"

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll give you a hint.... it was either #1 or #5 LOL j/k

i can't remember which one that was... but they were all within spec according to my factory service manual

Hawkze_2.3

Congrats on the progress so far It's always interesting to see this stuff.

alterdcreations

nice progress. i went .015 on the mains and spun no#3 main after 20,000 miles or so. more power to be had with looser clearences but its not a must.
i am shooting for .019 on the mains and .017 on the rods next time aroud.

good luck with the project and the header is freaking sick

misterpsycho

well, i've found motivation in the fact that i realized that if i don't get this thing put together by mid next week i won't be able to make the first race weekend that i want to attend

so i clayed the motor & ordered the rest of my parts (head gasket, head studs, injectors, fuel pump, velocity stack, new FPR, drag launch coilovers)
i really should've taken some pics as i was claying... probably would've been helpful for noobs like me who have never clayed a motor before (well, up until now)

you guys were right and i'm going to have to cut my pistons slightly.... only on the exhaust side tho
i gotta consult my engine guru about how much we're gonna cut into the pistons, altho i don't think it'll be much.... maybe 0.020"-0.030"

so, hopefully i can get those cut this week.... and i'm praying that my parts come in by the end of this week.... altho living in canada sucks because of the border

alterdcreations

goodluck to you

matysik27

good luck and great build so far