2.0 b16?
now that i am not sure about...never looked into it.
if you REALLY want more displacement THAT bad, i guess you could drop a h22 in there....
i dont see anything bad with a b16...i have one and it makes decent power....for a DD that is
if you REALLY want more displacement THAT bad, i guess you could drop a h22 in there....
i dont see anything bad with a b16...i have one and it makes decent power....for a DD that is
Realistically, the most you could stroke it would be to a 1.8...which is the same thing as a GS-R/LS B18 block, so why not get one of those?
EDIT: I googled it (http://www.google.com/products...UTF-8).
You'd be looking at spending $1,800-$4,000 for .2 liters of displacement.
EDIT: I googled it (http://www.google.com/products...UTF-8).
You'd be looking at spending $1,800-$4,000 for .2 liters of displacement.
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As jkov240 said, realisticly you would get a stroker kit to increase the displacement, sleeves are more for protection for like major boost i would say, and not to bore out. Since the b-series have the same bores and the displacement comes from their stroke/piston i dont see why doing a b18 would be better than doing a b16 besides the more agresssive cams, imo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTRwannaB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">real question is why can't you smog a b20 assuming it was a USDM one
they start at 96+
I thought as long as motor was newer it was ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>
In CA, I believe the B20 is rated for light truck use only.
they start at 96+
I thought as long as motor was newer it was ok?</TD></TR></TABLE>
In CA, I believe the B20 is rated for light truck use only.
i can't think of the article, but i read about some guys building a b18 block into a 2.0. i think they got most of it from boring and/or sleeving it. they still wanted to rev pretty high so they left the stroke about where it was. sorry, other than that i can't think of any more details to help you find the article.
don't forget though, there are some 2liter non-light truck motors out there. a bit more rare, but isn't the whole idea to be different than the next guy? oh yeah, being fast...
don't forget though, there are some 2liter non-light truck motors out there. a bit more rare, but isn't the whole idea to be different than the next guy? oh yeah, being fast...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6hatchboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As jkov240 said, realisticly you would get a stroker kit to increase the displacement, sleeves are more for protection for like major boost i would say, and not to bore out. Since the b-series have the same bores and the displacement comes from their stroke/piston i dont see why doing a b18 would be better than doing a b16 besides the more agresssive cams, imo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, going with a B18 block would be better for one BIG reason: deck height. The B16A block is 8mm shorter than the B18 blocks. This means that if you stroke a B16A, you are going to end up with one HORRIBLE rod ratio. ESPECIALLY if you do something REALLY stupid like use a 95mm crank with the stock 81mm bores to get a full 2.0 liters. Even n a B18 block, a 95mm stroke gives a horrid rod ratio of about 1.49:1. I would not even want to think of what you would get in a B16A block. Oh, and let's not forget that stroker kits are not exactly cheap.
My advice? If you live in California and need something that is legal, resleeve a GSR B18C1 block to 85mm. This will give you a 2.0 liter VTEC motor that can be BARed, and will pass ANY kind of smog check. And since you are not stoking the motor, you will still have a decently good 1.58:1 rod ratio.
Actually, going with a B18 block would be better for one BIG reason: deck height. The B16A block is 8mm shorter than the B18 blocks. This means that if you stroke a B16A, you are going to end up with one HORRIBLE rod ratio. ESPECIALLY if you do something REALLY stupid like use a 95mm crank with the stock 81mm bores to get a full 2.0 liters. Even n a B18 block, a 95mm stroke gives a horrid rod ratio of about 1.49:1. I would not even want to think of what you would get in a B16A block. Oh, and let's not forget that stroker kits are not exactly cheap.
My advice? If you live in California and need something that is legal, resleeve a GSR B18C1 block to 85mm. This will give you a 2.0 liter VTEC motor that can be BARed, and will pass ANY kind of smog check. And since you are not stoking the motor, you will still have a decently good 1.58:1 rod ratio.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually, going with a B18 block would be better for one BIG reason: deck height. The B16A block is 8mm shorter than the B18 blocks. This means that if you stroke a B16A, you are going to end up with one HORRIBLE rod ratio. ESPECIALLY if you do something REALLY stupid like use a 95mm crank with the stock 81mm bores to get a full 2.0 liters. Even n a B18 block, a 95mm stroke gives a horrid rod ratio of about 1.49:1. I would not even want to think of what you would get in a B16A block. Oh, and let's not forget that stroker kits are not exactly cheap.
My advice? If you live in California and need something that is legal, resleeve a GSR B18C1 block to 85mm. This will give you a 2.0 liter VTEC motor that can be BARed, and will pass ANY kind of smog check. And since you are not stoking the motor, you will still have a decently good 1.58:1 rod ratio.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ding ding ding!!! We have a winner. I was about to type the same thing more or less.
GS-R block + sleeves = more reliable 2.0L then even a B20 block.
Actually, going with a B18 block would be better for one BIG reason: deck height. The B16A block is 8mm shorter than the B18 blocks. This means that if you stroke a B16A, you are going to end up with one HORRIBLE rod ratio. ESPECIALLY if you do something REALLY stupid like use a 95mm crank with the stock 81mm bores to get a full 2.0 liters. Even n a B18 block, a 95mm stroke gives a horrid rod ratio of about 1.49:1. I would not even want to think of what you would get in a B16A block. Oh, and let's not forget that stroker kits are not exactly cheap.
My advice? If you live in California and need something that is legal, resleeve a GSR B18C1 block to 85mm. This will give you a 2.0 liter VTEC motor that can be BARed, and will pass ANY kind of smog check. And since you are not stoking the motor, you will still have a decently good 1.58:1 rod ratio.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ding ding ding!!! We have a winner. I was about to type the same thing more or less.
GS-R block + sleeves = more reliable 2.0L then even a B20 block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^hahahahahahahaha...what a way to start the day
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know. I was about to get ready to go be in a funeral for a loved one and for some reason i just had to make that cheezy picture first and post it. I cracked up the whole time. What makes it better is the cheeziness of it. At first I thought of finding block code pics from both a B20 and a B16A and photoshopping them both onto the body of the unicorn, but the cezzy text makes it even funnier.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I know. I was about to get ready to go be in a funeral for a loved one and for some reason i just had to make that cheezy picture first and post it. I cracked up the whole time. What makes it better is the cheeziness of it. At first I thought of finding block code pics from both a B20 and a B16A and photoshopping them both onto the body of the unicorn, but the cezzy text makes it even funnier.
It'd be funny if you had a picture edited with Bigfoot driving a Civic and "2.0L B16A Powered" on the side or something
But the unicorn one was definitely good stuff
But the unicorn one was definitely good stuff
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2004es2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually ive seen b20 with a gsr head get bard before. You sould ask a ref and he will let you know what all you need. And yes it was in Cali. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, must of been crooked as hell then. First its illegal to do any head swapping, and the b20 block is not legal to be in anything but a light truck.
haha, must of been crooked as hell then. First its illegal to do any head swapping, and the b20 block is not legal to be in anything but a light truck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2004es2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually ive seen b20 with a gsr head get bard before. You sould ask a ref and he will let you know what all you need. And yes it was in Cali. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It sounds to me like the ref just didn't care. This doesn't seem too unlikely, as I have found that refs can go either way. Sometimes, they are REAL hardasses. I have had refs fail me because the serice check connector was under the hood rather than under the dash (where they said it should be on a Del Sol VTEC). On the other hand, other refs have been REALLY laid back.
It sounds to me like the ref just didn't care. This doesn't seem too unlikely, as I have found that refs can go either way. Sometimes, they are REAL hardasses. I have had refs fail me because the serice check connector was under the hood rather than under the dash (where they said it should be on a Del Sol VTEC). On the other hand, other refs have been REALLY laid back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW I did happen to find a picture of a 2.0L B16A, as seen below:

</TD></TR></TABLE>
lmao - that's hilarious

</TD></TR></TABLE>lmao - that's hilarious
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stock99si
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Jul 19, 2007 08:23 AM







