00si swap eg coupe
im trading my dc2 for this car, but his check engine light is on and he says its throwing a code 10, i asked him what that means and then he said its the temp sensor, i was seeing if that would be the problem why the check engine light is on, and how much is it to get a new temp sensor?
thanks
Modified by slammedz6ef at 4:13 PM 1/28/2008
thanks
Modified by slammedz6ef at 4:13 PM 1/28/2008
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
which temp sensor? There's a thread on honda tech that has all the ECU codes spelled out into human language.
There's a coolant temp sensor and the air temp sensor.
BOTH will affect driveability. The air temp sensor is a critical fuel management sensor. If it's not there, the car will run like dog ****. Easily replaced. You can probably find it for $0-$5 at your local junkyard. That is...if it's just the sensor. If there's wiring or somethin else wrong, then you will have to diagnose and fix from there.
The coolant temp sensor, if it goes bad, will make the car run pig *** rich. The car will go into the safe setting (rich) for that sensor. So the ECU will think that the sensor is reading -40 degrees all the time. Again, it will run pig rich and in open loop all the time.
Another easy and cheap fix depending on the actual problem. Lots of people have this issue because they plug their VTEC solenoid plug into the CTS and the CTS plug into the VTEC solenoid. They're teh same type of plug, and they're right by each other.
I hate when people try to sell a car with a CEL on saying that "it's an easy fix, no big deal". If it was such an easy fix....why wouldn't they just fix it before trying to sell it? Tell him to fix that **** first if he wants to trade.
There's a coolant temp sensor and the air temp sensor.
BOTH will affect driveability. The air temp sensor is a critical fuel management sensor. If it's not there, the car will run like dog ****. Easily replaced. You can probably find it for $0-$5 at your local junkyard. That is...if it's just the sensor. If there's wiring or somethin else wrong, then you will have to diagnose and fix from there.
The coolant temp sensor, if it goes bad, will make the car run pig *** rich. The car will go into the safe setting (rich) for that sensor. So the ECU will think that the sensor is reading -40 degrees all the time. Again, it will run pig rich and in open loop all the time.
Another easy and cheap fix depending on the actual problem. Lots of people have this issue because they plug their VTEC solenoid plug into the CTS and the CTS plug into the VTEC solenoid. They're teh same type of plug, and they're right by each other.
I hate when people try to sell a car with a CEL on saying that "it's an easy fix, no big deal". If it was such an easy fix....why wouldn't they just fix it before trying to sell it? Tell him to fix that **** first if he wants to trade.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammedz6ef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the coolant temp sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd want it fixed before I took the car. Tell him to figure out the issue and put it right. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the ECU.
I'd want it fixed before I took the car. Tell him to figure out the issue and put it right. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the ECU.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammedz6ef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, well thanks man, you sure helped a lot!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no problems.
</TD></TR></TABLE>no problems.
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