Ok some of you may have seen me before having this sameidle problem. When you start the car it idles high at about 2k..and once it warms up a little it bounces for a good while and once it settles it sits at about 2k..the person that had it before me had bypassed the coolant lines running to the throttle body and iacv..so i thought possibly that may be the problem so i undid that and it didnt help anything at all..i have cleaned my iacv like 3 times now..i took loose the intercooler piping running to the throttle body(my ep3 is turboed)..and help my fingers over the hold that goes down to the IACV..and if you close the hole completely it acts like its going to die but if you leave a little bit of the hole uncovered it idles perfect..so does that mean my IACV is bad or what?...also I noticed there is some sort of valve where the upper radiator hose goes that has a vacuum port coming out of it and there is nothing connected to it at all..anyone know if that could be the problem...any help is appreciated its killing me lol

 

you probably need a new iacv i had the same problem and i replaced the whole throttle body and it fixed the problem for the most part but it still jumps around a little but then settles down at 1k

 

same problem- only acts up when it's below zero, but very annoying!
just had to ...search!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc5RickK20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you probably need a new iacv</TD></TR></TABLE>
...or you could clean it!
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1575913

 

not trying to be mean or anything but in the above post i stated that i have cleaned it three times now...also another thing...whenever i undid the coolant bypass when i started driving instead of the idle fluctuating from 1-2k it was going from 3-4 i have no idea why so i redid the bypass so now its just idleing like it was before..any other ideas i dont feel like paying 200 dollars for a new one lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not trying to be mean or anything but in the above post i stated that i have cleaned it three times now...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not being mean- just pointing out the obvious! ...Doh! on my part
but if you read the thread, it gives other ideas (They cleaned it, it didn't work also, it ended up being a relay, gasket, leak, etc.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..any other ideas i dont feel like paying 200 dollars for a new one lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
if after 6 hours of work on it, and still no luck, i'd just spend the $200 and have it fixed.
but- being a dad of 3, my time is more valuable to me than saving money is!

Anyone else know what the problem could be?

 

if idle is fluctuating its probably a vacuum leak. that being said, take a look at all gaskets, hoses, etc

 

well if a gasket could be the problem the throttle body gasket looks like hell..and is broke in a couple of places...could that be it...also does anyone know where the line runs out of that thermal valve on the head..where the upper radiator hose..it has a small coolant line running to it and then a vacuum port with nothing on it..seems to be as if it should be ran somewhere

 

would it be a bad idea to use gasket maker..ive heard of people using it before and it being just fine..because neither autozone nor advance auto parts have the gaskets in stock and i work monday-thursday so i dont really wanna wait till friday if its possible but anything would help...I have a picture of that vacuum port im going to upload later so you all can check it out..thanks

 

replace your tb gasket, and if you feel necessary, use some high temp RTV silicone to seal it up

 

yea im gonna replace it tomorrow i had a buddy of mine that works at honda order it for me..it helps knowing people there lol...huge discounts..got it for 4 dollars lol..anyways i also figured out where that vacuum line runs to..it runs to the stock intake..but im turboed so its not run to anything...do you think it would be necessary to drill and tap a hole and put a fitting on there to run the vacuum line? or not?..thanks

 

So when you re-installed the coolant bypass did you bleed the cooling system? If not you have air in the cooling system causing the idle problem, or even though you cleaned the iacv it could still be malfunctioning and require replacement, ooorrr if your TB gasket is jacked like you said spray the gasketmating areas i.e., TB, IM, Vacumm lines with carb cleaner while the engine is idling and look for a change/stumble in idle. The area that causes a stumble when sprayed (such as a jacked up TB gasket) is the problem area/gasket/hose etc.

Go do it up and get back to H-T.

 

No i did not bleed the cooling system i cant seem to find the bleeder screw anywhere..on my accord it was right in beside the valve cover..cant seem to find it anywhere..you know where it is man?...and I replaced the throttle body gasket and it did nothing at all

 

ok nevermind i found out how to bleed the cooling system..at ephatch.com it says to raise the front end and take the radiator cap off..start your car and let it idle and turn the heat on all the way and watch for bubbles to come up and refill the radiator as needed..im gonna try this right now lol

 

let us know how it worked... and if it fixed it!

 

You don't really have to alter the level of the ep3 to bleed the cooling system. Your right by placing the temp. control **** to full heat, but no blower fan. It will take foreever to bleed. also you want to keep the coolant level above the radiator neck. Let the car run until the thermostat opens, i.e. the lower radiator hose is hot. Continue to let the car idle and squeeze the lower radiator hose slowly and observe the coolant at the filler neck. After a certin point all the air would have been pushed out.

 

ok thanks..yea i messed with it a little last night and i seen a whole **** ton of bubbles come out but it was late so i stopped..im gonna try again sunday or saturday and make sure i get it all out and if that doesnt fix it im gonna get some carb cleaner like you said and spray around the throttle body and IM and vacuum lines and what not and see if i see a change in the idle when i spray certain areas..any other ideas of what it could be if thats not it?

 

hey man, sounds like you have a thermostat problem, it happened to me as well, very easy to replace and very cheap, what is happening is your thermostat is not letting all the coolant pass by a line, therefore, it idles up and down, my clutch was burnt because of it,
let me know how everything goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShAii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a thermostat problem, my clutch was burnt because of it, </TD></TR></TABLE>
HUH?
how did your clutch burn because of your thermostat?

 

First off your thermostat has nothing to do with your clutch and there is no way it would burn it up..second of all yea my idle fluctuates..but when it stops it sits at 2k..a bad thermostat would not cause that..its either air in the coolant or a bad IACV..so im bleeding it thursday..my buddy that works at honda is bringing over some special thing to bleed it and if that doesnt work he is gonna order me a new IACV and we will see if that fixes it..its gotten a little better since i bled it a little bit..it does fluctuate as much but it still sits at 2k when its done...i will update thursday night and let you all know what it was..thanks for the help

 

HEADS UP-

-when i went to the HONDA DEALERSHIP -they couldn't find this part...

BECAUSE THEY CALL IT THE ROTARY AIR CONTROL VALVE
not "iacv"

it took them 2 hours and 3 visits in 2 weeks before they found the part... now it's ordered.

not cheap either... $275!!!!!
...there goes all the saved money for the mugen replica wing
broken cars suck!


Modified by WyldRice at 3:16 PM 2/16/2008

 

i have this same problem and a friend of mine yesterday told me his K20A was doing the same thing when he first got it and it turned out to be a blown head gasket so im going to get a compression check next week and if it is a blown head gasket i guess its time for some cams for my rsx.