as far as aftermarket rotors go i would luv to install ''12 crossdrilled/slotted rotors 4 my Accord but i wanted to find out thru u guys whut u thought of the normal sized slotted rotors vs crossdrilled. I heard cross drilled rotors crack.

 

I read this info in domestic-oriented magazines and online, and I'm sure the same engineering applies to japanese as well.

1. drilled brakes tend to crack. I assume since they're in racing applications, they get replaced frequently before they have enough heating and cooling cycles to crack.

2. standard discs are okay.

3. slotted discs allow gases produced from the heat between the pad and disc to escape, allowing more efficient braking, without the cracking.

4. powerslot is a good name for discs, with 'greenstuff' pads for street, red for race. It's been a while since i've been into sport compacts so give me a break for not remembering what the green and red 'stuff' brake pads are made by.

5. dont' write in txt form@ man u want a bff spk englsh not txt bro ths stuff makes me lol and rotfl and omg its a noob btw welcum 2 htek.com

6. don't take my making fun of the text garbage personally. I'm just sick of it. I might not use perfect grammar, spelling, and punctuation, but at least try. A good idea is to read what you wrote before you click 'post'.

 

EBC is the company that makes the greenstuff, redstuff and so on, i had powerslot rotors for my previous car and greenstuff for the pads, and it was great, anytime u needed that extra stopping power it was there, ive done 200-0 stops no problem and the things never warped, ive put them through some really bad abuse and they took it well. As for xdrilled, they are crap my brother did a brake job same time as me, and he used the yellowstuff(race only) which was not a good idea to beggin with, well the pads are gone, the rotors are all in cracks, and are warped to hell, so stay away from xdrilled, and match the rotors u buy to a proper set of pads, dont over do on either of em, cause it should be a balance of both the parts working together. For the rotors i went to tirerack.com i had a pleasant expirience, and fast service so i recomend them, as for the pads i used a local shop.

 

For a DD?

Slotted/Drilled are overkill completely

Brembo blanks are more than enough.

The reason drilled crack is because 99% of the time the drilling is done AFTER the fact by some other company.

Brembo for example does not make drilled rotors at all. Any Brembo rotor that's drilled is aftermarket.

Get Brembo blanks and decent pads

 

brembo blanks and hawk hps good to go!

 

Ya the ones my brother cracked were drilled brembo blanks. It all depends on how u drive, so choose something thats suitable for ur style of driving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChevelleSSLS6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5. dont' write in txt form@ man u want a bff spk englsh not txt bro ths stuff makes me lol and rotfl and omg its a noob btw welcum 2 htek.com

6. don't take my making fun of the text garbage personally. I'm just sick of it. I might not use perfect grammar, spelling, and punctuation, but at least try. A good idea is to read what you wrote before you click 'post'.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too!

Also, to those who insist on not doing so, please break your posts up into paragraphs, please! ChevelleSSLS6 has set a good example in his post above, though numbering the paragraphs isn't generally a requirement!

 

slotted / drilled rotors also chew up pads quickly.......

 

IMO holes aren't necessarily a bad thing, and need not lead to cracking the rotor, but they have to be drilled properly in the right places and not with the holes too close together or too close to the inner or outer edges of the rotor. A 'straight line' of holes also creates a line of weakness in the rotor.

Slotted rotors can be weak too. A straight slot is much more likely to cause a crack than a curved slot. Slots shouldn't get too close to the edges of the rotor either.

Over heated pads give off gasses that are highly pressurised and prevent the pads from contacting the rotor surface, causing pad fade because the pads are effectively 'hydroplaning' (to misuse a term to convey a meaning) on a film of high pressure gas. The holes allow this gas to vent into the internal rotor cavities, as do slots (though slots vent the gas to the front and rear of the pads, obviously not into the rotor).

Both slots and holes in the same rotor might be overkill, but if the application sees very high rotor and pad temps may be worthwhile, but personally I wouldn't start drilling holes unless I had a very good idea what I was doing...

 

haha, you guys talking about how this person types haven't seen anything yet obviously. Some of the things I've tried to read here can be so horrible that you really can't understand what it is they are trying to ask/say. IMO, his post was pretty easy to read/understand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha, you guys talking about how this person types haven't seen anything yet obviously. Some of the things I've tried to read here can be so horrible that you really can't understand what it is they are trying to ask/say. IMO, his post was pretty easy to read/understand.</TD></TR></TABLE>Unfortunately I have to agree, there are much worse offenders than the poster I was joining in on criticising.

Sometimes I just look at a huge block of unpunctated / uncapitalised text and click the back button straight away. This isn't even considering those posts written in 'txtese', a language I really struggle with, but then I am 48 years old...

 

I like my cheap reliable Powerslots OEM honda pads..soon to be replaxced with something better the EBC pads seem promising